Bigbrit
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Posts posted by Bigbrit
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On 8/18/2021 at 8:50 PM, Bigbrit said:
Annnnnndddddddddddddd this is why I gave up using these forums the first time. *tumbleweed*
Did it really take you guys 6 weeks to even reply to the report on your own support forum? You guys really need to up your game for a so called enterprise solution. I just thought I’d check back to see if anything was being done 3 months later...
im using the normal printer. No way would I ever spend more money on Ultimaker equipment after the experiences I’ve had with this buggy overpriced printer.
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Not yet but I will give it a go
Seriously though these issues have persisted for 3 years now, its never been stable!
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Annnnnndddddddddddddd this is why I gave up using these forums the first time. *tumbleweed*
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I have also had an S5 plagued with Wifi issues for 3 years now. I was USB only for maybe 2 years but recently ive been trying it again and its better than the early days. I still have disconnection issues, mosty not being seen by cura and/or digital factory but it always says its connected on the printer.
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Can someone tell me why the UMS5 abort sequence takes SO LONG?
Often I want to restart the print anyways and everything starts to cool down during abort only to heat up again for a reprint. Having the menu greyed out during this time is frustrating as I want to just get on with reprinting. Seriously I think the abort and reprint sequence is over 10 minutes!
The finish sequence is also unnecessarily long. I understand the cooldown part, but why is the bed still raised during this sequence? the nozzle is oozing filament for a little while which ends up being attached to my print as everything cools down just mm underneath the print head. Why cant the print bed cool in the lower position or the print head move to home for the cooldown sequence?
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I'd also reallllly like to request this feature please? The ability to trigger the lights for the webcam would be amazing.
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@fbrc8-erin Thank you so much, just what I was looking for!
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My S5 is coming up on something like 3 years old and its time for some deep maintenance.
Ive got some new Bowden tubes and clips, and got some new belts and etc from a dealer here in the UK. Im going to replace to lot but are there any instructions for replacing the belts? I couldn't find anything
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Just to add to this, ive been trying different TPU's and found similar results - Polymaker PolyFlex does not work, it gets jammed up in the bowden.
I have found a great alternative to Ultimaker TPU (££££) This is very cost effective - Filamentive FLEXpro. Not quite as nice as the ultimaker filament admittedly but at less than half the price of UM its good enough.
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Amazing man thank you so much! You didnt have to go out your way to do that so again thank you. I'll give them a try for sure, very reasonable price too.
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So here's my experience over the last 8 months or so.
PVA is a pain in the arse. It's super hydroscooic, it prints in blobs and strings etc and it's very expensive.
I have found that for best results I print supports from extruder 1 and only print an interface layer of PVA from extruder 2 where support meets model. This has several advantages, it's cheaper because you use less of it, its quicker because the machine doesnt need to keep swapping nozzles, and it has less chance of causing problems.
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Ultimaker ABS. There was no warnings that it would not work so thought it would be ok, obviously its cooling and peeling up as it does so. Maybe I can do TPLA or PLA. It doesnt need to be mega tough to be honest - just needs to be tall and thin
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I print TPLA with hairspray, print is loose after cooling
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Maybe I spoke too soon. The LED's are fixed at current brightness setting and the slider is not changing the setting right now, I have not observed that before
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I am sure the developers could blow it up a little more though? We all know the webcam is almost useless in its current position but I can bearly see anything on it at that size
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Hey guys.
Long time since I have been on here as (I got quite frustrated with the forum) but im back to say some of the gripes I had with the S5 have been solved over the last two firmware updates. The LED's are now sufficiently dim enough on low (still no off function - not sure why that is so hard to implement) and the printer now doesn't show as offline in Cura even when it is online so the workflow has been improved greatly. Thank you to Ultimaker for solving those issues.
Sad to hear that the Aluminium build plate is now scrapped, I wasn't aware it was coming with one originally at the point of sale so I am not too bothered (what would aluminium offer over glass?) I had the email to say that a second glass build plate would be sent instead which is appreciated (still havent received mine?) but I wanted to ask why ultimaker didn't consider doing a PEI plate instead? something that would offer a textured surface like the plate that you can get with the Prusa?
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6 hours ago, Brulti said:
I'm always amazed by the pricing disparity between countries for the exact same product, not counting taxes.
385 CAN is 258,6€, which is already a steep price, and one I cannot really justify at the moment. But the retail price in Europe is 295€, which translates as 439,2 CAN. This is without taxes, as we Europeans have to add 20% on top for VAT.
So, don't complain too much @JohnInOttawa, you can get it for significantly cheaper than us poor souls in the EU! ??
Joke aside, the price itself will make this CC Red core a niche product.
Wow ok that kind of caught me of guard. I haven't seen any UK pricing yet but if it's ~£300 I will probably skip for now. I would assume the materials are going to be expensive too
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Right ok just got home from travels in Asia so I haven't waited until everyone goes to bed but I hope you can see the problem here @SandervG - this is lowest light setting possible, I have taken a few photos to prove.
Obviously in a couple of hours my neighbours outside light will be off and our house lights will be off and then this becomes super obvious that there is something going on in my garage which is not good.
All I want is an option for Frame Lights on/off. If they are on their brightness corresponds to the frame light slider and if they are off they are off.
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If its easy to implement on the Printer I see no reason to not have an LED OFF function. Thats all I want - the ability to turn the LED's off...
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4 hours ago, SandervG said:
Hi Everyone, thank you for all the feedback. Due to the intensity of some of these responses I suspect not everyone is experiencing the same intended behavior. @Bigbrit, can you share a video or photo of what your garage looks like when the LEDs are off?
The bug that was fixed in the firmware was a bug that some printers did not respond when you moved the sliding bar to the far left (off) on the Ultimaker S5 display, so LEDs stayed on at 100%. This is fixed, meaning, the sliding bar should work for everyone. Small nuance, when the slider bar is to the far left the LEDs are not 100% off, I think they might be on for 1% or less.
When I just checked, I didn't even see they were still on except when I held my hand entirely against the frame I saw a faint glow. Is this glow what you are talking about @Shadowman ? I think the lights of the print cores are probably brighter.
Next there is also an option to select 'Only on while printing', which means that the LEDs are on until you click 'confirm print removal' on the display.
Based on this discussion I think it's good to validate some definitions and scenarios.
When the LEDs are off, but glow minimally by 1%, is this troublesome for anyone?
If you want to prove a point, photo's would be much appreciated.
If so, in which scenario? I read somewhere office security might have an issue with it. In this case, would it make more sense to turn off the LEDs yourself anyway? If 'on while printing' would be enabled, there is a fair chance the LEDs would still be on anyway when you run a multi-day print.
And generally, in which scenario do you feel the LEDs are not supporting your needs?
Looking forward hearing from you, and apologies if the 'LEDs are fixed in the firmware'-statement was confusing. I understand we might have been talking about different behavior/bug.
Ok I will send you some photos when I return to the UK on Monday. You will see exactly what the issue is straight away I am sure.
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58 minutes ago, Brulti said:
I tended to use prime tower every time I used two filaments, be it PLA + PVA or just two colors, then I progressively tried without it and I realized that it works as well, perhaps even better, without the prime tower. Settings for UM-brand filaments are quite good. I recently finished printing a sculpture for a customer that required quite a bit of PVA, and there was nearly no problem with the PVA: no strands, no mixing with the PLA, etc, while I would have more when using the prime tower. Plus it takes less material and less time, the sculpt was thin but tall (about 20cm).
That being said, the new prime tower that consists of basically two towers nested into each other, one per material, should help with the problem of towers falling that was caused mostly by the two materials (like PVA and PLA) not sticking together well as they're not really meant to be used on alternating layers.
Have you had success with PVA and PLA? I had issues as the PLA will not stick to PVA
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Super disappointed to read this guys.
Mine lives in my garage and even at lowest light lights the whole thing up so that anybody can see from the outside that there is something going on in there.
Ultimaker - you need to get the details right!
I think they either fail to grasp what customers expect at this price point or just do not care. Either way it's extremely disappointing.
Abort Print takes SO LONG + Finished print sequence
in Firmware
Posted
It acts as the support forum though and has the ultimaker team on it. Let’s not try and pretend othereise