redslifer

Even if I don't have any stringing in any part of the print, I have a severe and uniform stringing on the travel lines of ironing. It seems like there is no retraction when ironing, is it the case? I am using cura 4.6.2

I tried using S3D's wipe nozzle feature and it goes rid of all of the solid parts, only very little points were left which I wasn't able to delete, but it isn't bad. It seems I'll be forced to abandone Cura if a nozzle wipe feature like s3d isn't implemented

I tried the zhop as suggested. A low zhop didn't make any change, but a zhop = nozzle started to make a difference, though I am unsure if it is supposed to be better or not. However it changed the solid trees to hard strings.

My bowden fittings are clipped so they don't move. As I said retraction hardly has any effect on end result most of the times. I can print at 180+°C but even at that stringing is very high with all the brands I have tried. I tried combing on and off but no difference either..

I never had that thin string between the different parts, only solid drops of plastic. The following image is the result I have with retraction disabled or set under 3 mm, it is just the same:

I tried all the possible combos of retraction lenght and speed from 0 to 15 and I didn't see any improvement unfortunately. I saw that video already too but it doesn't contain anything new 😕 All the materials I tried string the same way.

In actual prints they become so much that they require an eternity to remove and sometimes they ruin the details. ;(

Hi. This is the best stringing test result I've had so far in 2 years. I switched to BMG extruder, tried V6 and Chimera, ptfe lined, all metal, titanium polished bore, high temp PTFE, high rpm 40x40x20 heatsink fan and thermal paste on the heatbreak (it is ambient temp). Estep and Flow are calibrated. I tried all materials from different brands and also tried again drying them. I tried all retraction distance from 0 to 15mm and all speeds from 15mm/s to 80 mm/s and all temps, for PLA from 180 to 230. I even tried coasting and disabling part cooling fan. It didn't make any visible difference. Travel speed is 200mm/s... Any idea on what the hell could the issue be??? Because I am exhaust... It initially was a creality cr10S before all the mods I did trying to solve this.

Hi there. I don't know for retraction since I don't have a camera and the cura g-code reader is broken, while other gcode readers can read it but not perfectly as the gcodes are better read by the slicer that created it, apart for cura. Retraction is limited, and even with stock profile it's the same. I tried to change the extruder spring pressure to max and min, but really no difference

So, I tried to print the cr-10 v6 heavy duty mount for like 50+ times, with different filaments, various slicings, but it always keeps failing on the same point. I am getting extremely irritated. No print ever failed with s3d, but with cura 4.2.1 I only get fails. The filament at the extruder part gets destroyed and so it stops extruding, everytime. If this won't get any reply I'll report it on github. CCR10S_CR-10_HD-modular-mount-V6_mount.gcode test.curaprofile files.zip

Hi there. I tried to slice multiple times and print a lot of times, but this print always fails on the same spot because of underextrusion... what can I do? I use a cr-10S with a V6. Thank you. CCR10S_P2P3D_M5_Gantry_CableMount PETG ABL.gcode CCR10S_P2P3D_M5_Gantry_CableMount.3mf

It unfortunately isn't fixed. If I load into the cr-X or a custom machine a cr-10s profile it still doesn't work.

Yes I see the bug is solved. That's good. For the profile, just like there are people that like the "creawsome" mod (only people who never modded stock cura's profile because they were lazy imo), there are people that dislike it because of unexpected results. There are options which just don't make sense, and options far away from creality machines. I'd just say, for people that like to tweak profile for his own machine, using the "creawsome" starting point profile isn't that good. The first thing I dislike when tuning a profile is having a multiplier on the line width, I never had good results with a line width bigger than nozzle size, and even if I wanted, I'd want to have as a reference the nozzle width which I could tune by myself, not a stock random multiplier which would just confuse a new user new to the 3d printer world. Also, with this new profile, nozzle temperature isn't inherited by the material.

The new pre-defined creality profiles are just horrible... old ones were actually better and it was better to restore a wrongly configured parameter to default. Also now because of this you can't import profiles made by creality machines in 4.2 into other machines. I configured my cr10s and wanted to export that profile and import into a custom profile for dual extrusion cr10s but that can't imported because "machines are different".

That is internal infill. As I said, the problem isn't much that side, since as you pointed out, infill helps there, but the other side. The other side isn't supported by anything so it is printed in air and it is very weak an not stable.

I need cura supports because of the dual extruder interface layers. And more perimeters cause a huge amout of wasted time and material unfortunately. Is this behaviour really normal?

Up.

Hi. I have troubles with tree supports because each layer is too distant from the other one and on one side it starts in the air. I tried to change support overhang to 40°, the diameter grade to 3, but no difference... What can I do?

Deselect "infill before walls" in the infill tab. Also disable "compensate wall overlaps". That worked to me and to everyone I helped with this issue, which are a lot.

I just noticed using this beta a "build volume temperature" option between "default printing temp" and "printing temp", so at the second spot. Some options below there also are the old 3 options for the bed temperature, so what is that one for? It is at 35°C..

This is the (well, one of the multiple reasons) I abandoned cura. I never found a way to print a benchy without the split on that section, all the benchies I tried separated on that layer like if they were printed separately. This never happened with any other slicer, and I don't use jerk and acceleration either actually, or at least I tried both ways before. This along with the bugs that corrupts cura 4.0 machines and profiles at every restart (very common bug since 4.0, I read about it everyday...) made it impossible to use Cura for any purpose. This said.. the split happens on the first "top" layer, that's where the material on the top doesn't bond at all with the one under it, it's not like it partially melts in some points, it just doesn't on any point. As I said, they seem printed separately.

Hi there. One of the huge problems I have and I finally wanted to share here too, since I saw much other people with the same problem using cura recently, is that there are darker layers always in the same spots of a print. In this case, the benchy, the darker layers are just the layers under the first railing layer, starting from the end of the letters on the back of the benchy. The darker layers are also a bit overextruded in all the directions and they are also very weak. The print usually breaks, or splits, on that section just when removing it from the bed. I tried different materials, colours and settings without any difference, more or less they all become darker and split in that section. I will post the gcode so anyone can help me determine what hapens precisely on those layers that's different from the others. Even just the speed, coasting or whatever can affect it.. Thank to anyone who'll help here. 3DBenchy.gcode

Hi there. I am struggling with tree supports since they don't respect the distance between the last layer branches and much parts are completely extruded in the air. Is there a way to correct it?

What machine are you using? Maybe it will give hints to someone to help you more.

Maybe you can take a look in the machine and extruder definition in the cura installation folder.