Carla_Birch

I’m selling my Ultimaker S3 to make space for a newer printer. Full images can be seen on my eBay listing here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256150118216 would prefer to sell via eBay so that both myself and the buyer are covered. the printer itself is well looked after and was mostly a back up/overflow printer for times when I got multiple orders all at once. Basically only run with pla and breakaway filaments. printer is in Staffordshire (UK) and I can post ( still got its box) but collection is preferable. more information and price, plus lots of photos on eBay and I’m open to good offers. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256150118216

Your manual bed level could be to tight what makes the bed lower than should be, @fbrc8-erin i think would likely know what the gap should be between the metal frame and the headed bed. Also have you reseated all the plugs in the printhead?

I have had that happen in the past ages ago and it was a bad slice file, so its worth slicing the file again, before you try again.

Have you checked by hand that moving the lifting switch is moving the print core up and down? If so i would check the AA core is fully seating in right as sometimes they can sit at a angle and you have to push it a little more so it sits right. (Take it out and push it back in) Other than that posting a image might show up some other problem, but i can not think of anything else that could really be wrong.

Trying to upload prints via cloud from Cura gives me the following error: Uploading via "Print over network" works just fine still. Update: the error seems to have gone away now.

I don't think PVA works very good with PETG to be honest, you might want to look into AquaSys 120 (Costs more than PVA) you can view some info about it here: https://ultimaker.com/materials/infinite-aquasys-120 https://3dgbire.com/products/aquasys-120-2-85mm-500g

That can be down to a number of stuff. lose belts uneven belt tension to fast a print speed ( doing the small parts your printer will be doing more jerk movments vs when its doing the bigger parts) retraction (if you got it on, being to much so you get uneven layers due to the a uneven flow) I would check all the belt tension feels even, make sure all the grub screws in the pully's are all tight so they not slipping on fast jerks, clean and oil all the rods and make sure the print hand feels like its moving around with the same force by hand.

Over time code for stuff will always have change, not just to add new stuff but to add support for new OS (That users will be moving to) or to patch out security flaw's/bugs. When making plugin or addon's for any type of program or code you should always keep in mind that every time the main program/code gets updated you would need to check and likely edit stuff to keep up todate, this can also help you get better at coding because sometimes in updating your own code you can make it less likely that edits in the main code can break it.

I have never had that on mine, but i would like you have already said try a factory reset. You can also force the printer to install the firmware update again, just in case something went wrong with the update, just do that via the printers menu.

It's not a maintenance option, but if you press the printer icon on the screens side menu to view the printcores and filamnet, you can press on the printcore you wish to heat up and then in the top right click on the 3 dot menu icon and you can set temperature.

What layer height are you printing at? The bigger the layer height the higher a print temp is needed or slower print speed, so that the filamant as time to melt in the hot zone. Have you tired to print a temp tower? because sometimes you have to print at a higher temp and don't always take cura temps as a given.

Are you using Ultimaker cleaning filament when you do the core cleaning? If not i would give them a try and do a few cold pulls. Failing that if its a good blockage, you might need to get a 0.4 nozzle needle and when the print core is up to temp, carefully push it up the nozzle from the point of the nozzle to hopefully break the blockage free (you feel you be able to push the needle all the way up into the core) and then do a few cold pulls.

Cut 5mm off the end of the bowden on the end that goes into the feeder, so its got a fresh bit of bowden to grip to. if that don't work then its likely the collet is worn.

I'm up at the 230-235 range for 0.15 layers, i find with break away cold pull's once start to see a problem normal helps, seems like a thin coating builds up on the inside the print core and starts to limit the flow more often then say PLA does.

Do you have a firewall set on your network at all? it could maybe be blocking your computer sending the data from cura to the printer?

Do you have anything like a craft knife that could fit in the gap and let you cut the filament where it enters the printcore? You could then remove the bowden and remove the broken filament from it and then try running the print core cleaning to see if you can unblock the print core, you might need to also get some nozzle cleaners the right size of the nozzle and try pushing them up the nozzle when hot from the underside to help unblock the print core.

What temp you printing break away at? i find i need to print it higher than the preset temps for it. I also find the printcore needs a clean out more often than if using PLA and other filaments to keep a good flow rate

Well i typed less, so i'll let you off 😛

It's likely to be calibration of the printer, likely can be fixed by making small edits to the flow rate of filament, try printing a 20mm cube and see how big it is on all sides. If you can not dail it in so they work, if the model is your own you can adjust in the model.

If 4.12.1 meet's your needs and works fine then a rule of thumb with software is to stick with that version, unless a later version comes with a feature you really really need. Also 4.13 is a beta so there could be some bug, so going into more detail about the problem you are facing and making showing a few images between the same print on 4.12.1 and 4.13 might help to see what any problem is. For me personally i'm printing on 4.13 and 0.10 layers and getting better prints, but what i'm printing is not fan blades what i guess can be more tricky to print due to fine walls.

Here is a photo I just taken to show what I mean.

I keep my spares under my printer, where they are easy to find, plus i swap between two of them when printing also. I have my printer lifted up a little higher also to make sure the PSU fan still gets good air flow.

A few things can make that error show up on the printers when doing auto leveling. Blobs of fliament stuck to one the nozzles or glass bed where it does levling. Electrical interference (this can even be from your body if you are putting bbody part in and around the printer why leveling) The glass build plate it self not set right, in terms of the thumb screws making the height of it being to low or high, @fbrc8-erin i think knows what gap should be between the frame and the glass. Sometimes just opening the closing the front fan door or doing a power cycle of the printer can make it go away also, likely build up of static making interference. What you normal see with that error is it starts to auto level, Does print core 1 and it pushes the build plate a little, then it move and lowers print core 2 and then goes to level print core two but most the time it stops before it even gets to the nozzle to push the build plate.

Would running a cold pull clean of the print core help?

It's better to get a 2nd glass build plate and take the print out and let it cool normal why using the 2nd glass build plate to start the next print. Personally i have 3 glass build plates to each printer, the 3rd being a back up incase one breaks.