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Ace1992

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  1. Hey Guys, I just started messing around with the bridging setting of cura, and I came across an interesting issue. The part looks really good until it prints the layers that would be considered bridging layers. I printed a couple of different models, and it always occurred at the bridging layers. I looked at the layers in Cura and it appears that the layers that are messed up, still have the same flow rate as the rest of the model, but it just looks bad. I have tried adjusting the coasting setting, but that does not seem to help. I was hoping someone could shine some light on the issue. here is the printer information: Ultimaker 2 3d fuel PLA 50 mm/s print speed I slow the outer wall speed to 20mm/s instead of the default 205 print temperature Bondtech QR feeder Olson Block Please let me know if you need any other information.
  2. Hey Guys, This is a really awesome thread. I just happen to stumble across it, when I was looking up how to do a corexy upgrade to my ultimaker 2. I have a few questions though. Did the final design get completed, and if so where can I get the STL files? Also where can I get the software? Is this listed in cura?
  3. I used glue stick before I upgraded my printer to buildtak, and I had pretty good luck with it. There were only a few times that I had a corner pull up. Like Smithy said, I think it depends on the model. I would use the brim setting for sure. I normally used an 8mm brim width, and had the first layer smoosh a litter more than normal.
  4. Its not bad. I can make PLA smoother, but overall it is pretty smooth.
  5. Sorry about that. Can you see them now? As you can see in some of the pictures, there is some noticeable ringing around the holes. I have been able to eliminate that by cooling the prints down a little. I started another print last night, and printed at 230, I will take some pictures of that tonight and post them.
  6. Here are some sample pictures. I am still getting some ringing, and to me it looks like they are still printing a little too hot. That is why I am going to turn it down a bit tonight.
  7. Preview attachment IMG-5180.jpg IMG-5180.jpg 1.8 MBPreview attachment IMG-5179.jpg Preview attachment IMG-5178.jpg Preview attachment IMG-5177.jpg IMG-5177.jpg 2.1 MB IMG-5178.jpg 2.3 MB IMG-5179.jpg 1.3 MB
  8. Sorry for the late reply. I am still messing with it, but currently I am printing with the following settings: 235 degrees hotend .4mm nozzle and .1mm layer height 110 degrees heated bed (enclosed) I have a 120v heated bed, and I allow it to heat up the chamber for 10-15min before I print 40mm/s print speed on everything (except the first layer, that is just the default) 103% flow of the material 60% cooling 1mm roof on support surfaces Z direction .15mm distance between the support interface and the part. Z axis is the priority Support material is needed everywhere, because it tends to warp pretty easily if it is not touch anything. Also, I have noticed that this material is very susceptible to overheating. If you get it too hot, it will become very brittle. I am actually going to try to turn down the print temp to 230 tonight, to see what it does. My last part were really brittle.
  9. I have an ultimaker 2 with a Bondtech upgrade feeder and the olsen block, and I am not an expert, but this is one of the main materials I print with. In my opinion, once you get the settings where they need to be, it will make some very beautiful and durable parts.
  10. Hi guys, I have an Ultimaker 2 with the latest tinker software. I just bought a heater mat from Mcmaster (Part #: 35765K482 ), and I bought a solid state-relay from Digikey (Part #CC2108-ND). Everything works like it is supposed to, but with the "Bang-Bang" setup on the heated bed I am getting a lot of temperature variation, which is causing thermal expansion of my plastic. During prints the plastic would expand and shrink, which would cause layers to protrude outside the shell in a repeating pattern. (Please see the attached picture) I know that it is the heated bed, because as soon as I shut it off completely the shell went back to a perfectly smooth wall. I have tried many different material, Colorfabb HT, Ultimaker ABS, Ultimaker PLA, and Matter Hackers Pro-series PETG. All of them have acquired this pattern ever since I changed the heated bed. If someone could help me turn on the PID controller for the heated bed, and show me how to use the auto-tune, I would really appreciate it. Thanks, Andy
  11. Hey Guys, Thanks for the input. GR5 I know that you have messed with the Ultimaker 3's before. I watched you video on taking the print cores apart. Do you know if the Ultimaker 3 print head have the same bearing spacing as the ultimaker 2, or would i have to design new sliding blocks? I also watched ultiarjan video on his ultimaker go clone with the ultimaker 3 print head. It said that it just used the Mark 2 tinker software. How do you program in it building the prime tower then? If I remember correctly the Mark 2 does not use a priming tower. Thanks, Andy
  12. Hey Guys, I have been wanting to put dual extrusion on my Ultimaker 2 for awhile now, and have always been curious about just putting an Ultimaker 3 print head on it. I am still pretty new to the forum and want to learn more about these printers and coding behind them. Could you tell me how hard it was to put the Ultimaker 3 print head on the Ultimaker Go Clone? I am not very good at changing the Code for these machines, and I was wondering the modifications you made to the Tinker Software, if any. You said that the Ultimaker 3 print head has a smaller Y-Axis bearing where can I get the 3D cad files to make the modification if I desire to? I know now that the Ultimaker 3 print head can just be purchased now, so I might just go down that path. Sorry for all the newbie questions, but thank you in advance for your reply. Thanks, Andy
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