Ace1992

Hey Guys, I just started messing around with the bridging setting of cura, and I came across an interesting issue. The part looks really good until it prints the layers that would be considered bridging layers. I printed a couple of different models, and it always occurred at the bridging layers. I looked at the layers in Cura and it appears that the layers that are messed up, still have the same flow rate as the rest of the model, but it just looks bad. I have tried adjusting the coasting setting, but that does not seem to help. I was hoping someone could shine some light on the issue. here is the printer information: Ultimaker 2 3d fuel PLA 50 mm/s print speed I slow the outer wall speed to 20mm/s instead of the default 205 print temperature Bondtech QR feeder Olson Block Please let me know if you need any other information.

Hey Guys, This is a really awesome thread. I just happen to stumble across it, when I was looking up how to do a corexy upgrade to my ultimaker 2. I have a few questions though. Did the final design get completed, and if so where can I get the STL files? Also where can I get the software? Is this listed in cura?

I used glue stick before I upgraded my printer to buildtak, and I had pretty good luck with it. There were only a few times that I had a corner pull up. Like Smithy said, I think it depends on the model. I would use the brim setting for sure. I normally used an 8mm brim width, and had the first layer smoosh a litter more than normal.

Its not bad. I can make PLA smoother, but overall it is pretty smooth.

It is at .1mm

Sorry about that. Can you see them now? As you can see in some of the pictures, there is some noticeable ringing around the holes. I have been able to eliminate that by cooling the prints down a little. I started another print last night, and printed at 230, I will take some pictures of that tonight and post them.

Here are some sample pictures. I am still getting some ringing, and to me it looks like they are still printing a little too hot. That is why I am going to turn it down a bit tonight.

Preview attachment IMG-5180.jpg IMG-5180.jpg 1.8 MBPreview attachment IMG-5179.jpg Preview attachment IMG-5178.jpg Preview attachment IMG-5177.jpg IMG-5177.jpg 2.1 MB IMG-5178.jpg 2.3 MB IMG-5179.jpg 1.3 MB

Sorry for the late reply. I am still messing with it, but currently I am printing with the following settings: 235 degrees hotend .4mm nozzle and .1mm layer height 110 degrees heated bed (enclosed) I have a 120v heated bed, and I allow it to heat up the chamber for 10-15min before I print 40mm/s print speed on everything (except the first layer, that is just the default) 103% flow of the material 60% cooling 1mm roof on support surfaces Z direction .15mm distance between the support interface and the part. Z axis is the priority Support material is needed everywhere, because it tends to warp pretty easily if it is not touch anything. Also, I have noticed that this material is very susceptible to overheating. If you get it too hot, it will become very brittle. I am actually going to try to turn down the print temp to 230 tonight, to see what it does. My last part were really brittle.

I have an ultimaker 2 with a Bondtech upgrade feeder and the olsen block, and I am not an expert, but this is one of the main materials I print with. In my opinion, once you get the settings where they need to be, it will make some very beautiful and durable parts.

Thank you Very Much Tinkergnome!!!

Hi guys, I have an Ultimaker 2 with the latest tinker software. I just bought a heater mat from Mcmaster (Part #: 35765K482 ), and I bought a solid state-relay from Digikey (Part #CC2108-ND). Everything works like it is supposed to, but with the "Bang-Bang" setup on the heated bed I am getting a lot of temperature variation, which is causing thermal expansion of my plastic. During prints the plastic would expand and shrink, which would cause layers to protrude outside the shell in a repeating pattern. (Please see the attached picture) I know that it is the heated bed, because as soon as I shut it off completely the shell went back to a perfectly smooth wall. I have tried many different material, Colorfabb HT, Ultimaker ABS, Ultimaker PLA, and Matter Hackers Pro-series PETG. All of them have acquired this pattern ever since I changed the heated bed. If someone could help me turn on the PID controller for the heated bed, and show me how to use the auto-tune, I would really appreciate it. Thanks, Andy

Hey Guys, Thanks for the input. GR5 I know that you have messed with the Ultimaker 3's before. I watched you video on taking the print cores apart. Do you know if the Ultimaker 3 print head have the same bearing spacing as the ultimaker 2, or would i have to design new sliding blocks? I also watched ultiarjan video on his ultimaker go clone with the ultimaker 3 print head. It said that it just used the Mark 2 tinker software. How do you program in it building the prime tower then? If I remember correctly the Mark 2 does not use a priming tower. Thanks, Andy

Hey Guys, I have been wanting to put dual extrusion on my Ultimaker 2 for awhile now, and have always been curious about just putting an Ultimaker 3 print head on it. I am still pretty new to the forum and want to learn more about these printers and coding behind them. Could you tell me how hard it was to put the Ultimaker 3 print head on the Ultimaker Go Clone? I am not very good at changing the Code for these machines, and I was wondering the modifications you made to the Tinker Software, if any. You said that the Ultimaker 3 print head has a smaller Y-Axis bearing where can I get the 3D cad files to make the modification if I desire to? I know now that the Ultimaker 3 print head can just be purchased now, so I might just go down that path. Sorry for all the newbie questions, but thank you in advance for your reply. Thanks, Andy

Yep! Count me in!!

Hey Guys, This is a very interesting project. It is really awesome to know that there are people out there always looking to improve a product. I continuously try to research ways to improve my printer, the hard part for me is programming. I have only made simple arduino codes. I currently run an UM2 with a bondtech QR and an Olson Block. I am currently working on getting my printer switched over to an E3D V6 hotend. I assume that it would work on my printer? If so, I would be interested in purchasing one.

Hey Guys, Thanks for the replies and help. Gr5, you had the right idea with increasing my fan speed. I was afraid that it would start causing layer separation, but I has drastically increased the quality. I just got a new roll of the HT in yesterday, so I am now messing with the print speed and the temperature a little more. @DF-Werkzeugservice: Support material removal is not a pain at all for me. I have spent quite a bit of time figuring out the best setting for this, and have found that .15 distance from part is just about perfect. Most of the time, I just take a pair of needle nose pliers and twist and pull a little bit and the whole thing comes out.

Hey Gr5, Thank you very for the quick reply. Currently I have the bed temp set to 100 C, and then I enclose the printer to keep the temperature inside the printer warmer. If I don't use the enclosure then I will get layer split do to temperature change. I am currently making my own E3D V6 mount, so I need the High temperature material, and to be honest this HT material is pretty easy to print. I have attached one more picture to hopefully add some more detail to my conundrum. As you can see, I have support materiel inside of the hole when I print it. The pictures in my previous post were after I pulled out all the support material. This leads me to the question of why does the support material let it "squish" that much. Like I said, I have my support structures .15mm away from the structure, so in theory I should only get a .3 mm shrinkage. That little of shrink would not bother me at all. It may be just the perfectionist in me, but I feel like I must be doing something wrong, because I know that these printers are awesome. Thanks, Andy

Hey Guys, I apologize if this question has been answered multiple time, but I have been looking for quite some time now and could not find a solution to this problem. I am having issues with the holes of the parts appearing to be squished in the z direction. The hole in the attached picture is supposed to be 8mm in diameter. As you can see the hole diameter in the X and Y direction is only .1mm off, but in the Z direction the circle is off 1.12mm. At first I thought it was just the Z axis was not calibrated, but the overall Z dimension of the part is correct. As you can see in the last picture, the overall part measures 21.45mm, and it is supposed to measure 21.5mm. With it being off only by .05mm I don't think that my Z-axis needs calibrating. I someone could please help me with this problem I would really appreciate it. I have an Ultimaker 2, printing with Colorfabb HT material, 100% infill, 60mm/sec, support at 60 degrees and .15mm gap between the support and part, 270 degrees print temp, and cooling at 30%. I have great layer adhesion and no curling, so I don't think the temp has anything to do with it. Thanks, Andy