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IwanBeentjes

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Personal Information

  • Field of Work
    Engineering
  • Country
    NL
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker S5

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363 profile views
  1. Thank you for the information regarding the build plate. Its a shame that the aluminum build plate did not meet the required quality standards!
  2. Not to be a prick but it is in the firmware of the ender 3.. I got one myself and mine is working fine with cura 3.6 When I am at home I can look up which firmware I got on my ender 3
  3. maybe a good alternative indeed thank you! I already make my own print profiles even for the more "simple" materials so that's no problem
  4. this is part of the reason i asked the question in the first place as well, because if it where easy and risk free to remove the nozzle from the print core I could replace the original nozzle with an more abrasive resistant nozzle. unfortunately this is not the case and the CC 0.6 core seems to be the best solution for printing with abrasive materials.
  5. That's exactly what we did for 20+ times before all of the inside was clean (we used 70% brass filled filament for the first time in an 0.4 AA core) I can say out of experience that you need at least an 0.6 or even an 0.8 core for that material haha.
  6. maybe it is the print order? walls before infill would mean that your wall will be printed in air ?? just giving you some ideas!(A)
  7. Thank you for the reply's ! Its possible but not recommended haha
  8. A quick and maybe a "stupid" question.. But is it possible to change the nozzles on a S5 printcore ? We had a clogged nozzle some weeks ago and struggled to unclog it properly, so we wanted to unscrew the nozzle on the printcore but this was really hard and I was scared of breaking it so we stopped 🙂 P.S. nozzle is unclogged now after 20+ cold/hot pulls
  9. Hi Dureiken, As the guys before me stated follow those steps first! Regarding PETG we experienced that the following settings worked best for us: Print Temp. 250 Bed Temp. 85 Retraction Distance 10mm Retraction Speed 35mm/s Also did we experience a lot of problems with printing infill patterns at a speed > 60mm/s To be safe I would recommend to print infill at a speed of 40mm/s max Hope this gives you a good start!
  10. There is an option in the support tree that is called "support infill line direction" if you put a angle here it will change the direction of the infill pattern.
  11. For me this works as intended when I pick a material it changes all the values for this material.. Maybe try to export and import the materials again?
  12. I think we need some more information than just that. Can you attach your project file for us ?
  13. Second halve is being printed right now! the shape of the speaker is a replica of the B&W nautilus speaker : https://www.bowers-wilkins.nl/Luidsprekers/Home_audio/Nautilus (Hope people can translate the page haha) These where claimed to be one of the best speakers with a price tag of $60.000 new. The real "science" behind the shape is a mystery for me as well as I am not an expert on sound, but the fact that a team of expert took 5 years to design the speaker in the above link and claim it to be the "best" speaker ever made gives some sort of confidence haha.
  14. Hello! For a project i am printing 2 Akemake spiral speakers as shown in this article: https://3dprint.com/5188/akemake-first-3d-printed-wood-speaker/ Only difference with the article is that i am using 20% wood 80% PLA filament and not 100% wood as stated in the article (not even sure if 100% Wood is possible...) this one: https://www.123-3d.nl/123-3D-Filament-eikenhout-2-85-mm-PLA-0-5-kg-123-3D-huismerk-i1930-t12292.html (website is in Dutch but hope you get the point haha) Because Wood filament is not the easiest to print and people suggest to use a wider nozzle I used a 0.8AA nozzle on the Ultimaker S5 This was the result! An overall great result! The only problem is that when a hole needs to be printed it looks like the printer skips a layer / jumps to a other spot or something like that... This obviously isn't a super big problem that cant be fixt with some sandpaper or lac but still its a bit annoying. I used the following settings in Cura: Layer Height: 0.2mm Line Width: 0.75m Wall Line Count: 2 Top and Bottom layers: 5 Infill %: 20% Infill Pattern: Gyroid Print Speed: 25mm/s Print Jerk: 25mm/s Printing Temp.: 210C Build Plate Temp.: 60C Z hop retract: on at 2mm Combing mode: On NO Support Hopefully someone can help me! Gr. Iwan
  15. I think people need some more information Like what printer do you have ? What are the dimensions of the objects ? etc. I got an Ender 3 at home and in Cura it has the option to print "part for part" instead of layer by layer. Difference with the Ender 3 is that the heated bed moves in de Y axis and not the Z axis as the Ultimaker S5 does. Which makes hitting object you already printed less likely. This is probably the reason why the option is not showing when you have a Ultimaker printer selected in Cura. The risk of hitting an object and therefor damaging your printer is to high. You probably can "mislead" Cura and your printer but the real question is " is it worth the risk ? "
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