Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by IwanBeentjes

  1. Thank you for the information regarding the build plate. Its a shame that the aluminum build plate did not meet the required quality standards!
  2. Not to be a prick but it is in the firmware of the ender 3.. I got one myself and mine is working fine with cura 3.6 When I am at home I can look up which firmware I got on my ender 3
  3. maybe a good alternative indeed thank you! I already make my own print profiles even for the more "simple" materials so that's no problem
  4. this is part of the reason i asked the question in the first place as well, because if it where easy and risk free to remove the nozzle from the print core I could replace the original nozzle with an more abrasive resistant nozzle. unfortunately this is not the case and the CC 0.6 core seems to be the best solution for printing with abrasive materials.
  5. That's exactly what we did for 20+ times before all of the inside was clean (we used 70% brass filled filament for the first time in an 0.4 AA core) I can say out of experience that you need at least an 0.6 or even an 0.8 core for that material haha.
  6. maybe it is the print order? walls before infill would mean that your wall will be printed in air ?? just giving you some ideas!(A)
  7. Thank you for the reply's ! Its possible but not recommended haha
  8. A quick and maybe a "stupid" question.. But is it possible to change the nozzles on a S5 printcore ? We had a clogged nozzle some weeks ago and struggled to unclog it properly, so we wanted to unscrew the nozzle on the printcore but this was really hard and I was scared of breaking it so we stopped 🙂 P.S. nozzle is unclogged now after 20+ cold/hot pulls
  9. Hi Dureiken, As the guys before me stated follow those steps first! Regarding PETG we experienced that the following settings worked best for us: Print Temp. 250 Bed Temp. 85 Retraction Distance 10mm Retraction Speed 35mm/s Also did we experience a lot of problems with printing infill patterns at a speed > 60mm/s To be safe I would recommend to print infill at a speed of 40mm/s max Hope this gives you a good start!
  10. There is an option in the support tree that is called "support infill line direction" if you put a angle here it will change the direction of the infill pattern.
  11. For me this works as intended when I pick a material it changes all the values for this material.. Maybe try to export and import the materials again?
  12. I think we need some more information than just that. Can you attach your project file for us ?
  13. Second halve is being printed right now! the shape of the speaker is a replica of the B&W nautilus speaker : https://www.bowers-wilkins.nl/Luidsprekers/Home_audio/Nautilus (Hope people can translate the page haha) These where claimed to be one of the best speakers with a price tag of $60.000 new. The real "science" behind the shape is a mystery for me as well as I am not an expert on sound, but the fact that a team of expert took 5 years to design the speaker in the above link and claim it to be the "best" speaker ever made gives some sort of confidence haha.
  14. Hello! For a project i am printing 2 Akemake spiral speakers as shown in this article: https://3dprint.com/5188/akemake-first-3d-printed-wood-speaker/ Only difference with the article is that i am using 20% wood 80% PLA filament and not 100% wood as stated in the article (not even sure if 100% Wood is possible...) this one: https://www.123-3d.nl/123-3D-Filament-eikenhout-2-85-mm-PLA-0-5-kg-123-3D-huismerk-i1930-t12292.html (website is in Dutch but hope you get the point haha) Because Wood filament is not the easiest to print and people suggest to use a wider nozzle I used a 0.8AA nozzle on the Ultimaker S5 This was the result! An overall great result! The only problem is that when a hole needs to be printed it looks like the printer skips a layer / jumps to a other spot or something like that... This obviously isn't a super big problem that cant be fixt with some sandpaper or lac but still its a bit annoying. I used the following settings in Cura: Layer Height: 0.2mm Line Width: 0.75m Wall Line Count: 2 Top and Bottom layers: 5 Infill %: 20% Infill Pattern: Gyroid Print Speed: 25mm/s Print Jerk: 25mm/s Printing Temp.: 210C Build Plate Temp.: 60C Z hop retract: on at 2mm Combing mode: On NO Support Hopefully someone can help me! Gr. Iwan
  15. I think people need some more information Like what printer do you have ? What are the dimensions of the objects ? etc. I got an Ender 3 at home and in Cura it has the option to print "part for part" instead of layer by layer. Difference with the Ender 3 is that the heated bed moves in de Y axis and not the Z axis as the Ultimaker S5 does. Which makes hitting object you already printed less likely. This is probably the reason why the option is not showing when you have a Ultimaker printer selected in Cura. The risk of hitting an object and therefor damaging your printer is to high. You probably can "mislead" Cura and your printer but the real question is " is it worth the risk ? "
  16. I had no idea the aluminum build plate was part of the Ultimaker S5 package.. This is because I started working for a company that had already bought the Ultimaker before I started working there. Never the less I can understand the disappointment! Like shadowman stated a great way to come to even ground with us the costumers is to provide a temporary alternative like a second glass plate + adhesion sheets. Gr Iwan
  17. Thank you Sander for the clarification! Good luck with further testing of the build plate!
  18. Maybe try combing mode "not in skin" For Z hop i have no idea if it will help with your problem but you can try turning it on.
  19. Maybe a bit simple minded here.. but do you have the Combing mode on in Cura? its under the travel section.
  20. First let me say that Cura is a great program and I am not here to be negative towards Ultimaker/Cura. We have an Ultimaker S5 for about a month now and printing with it is easy and the results are great. But as a proper geek I wanted more.... So I tried to make the following slicing programs work (to test results like: Speed, Material used, Quality etc.) Simplify3D Craftware IceSL But after slicing and storing the Gcode on a USB drive and trying to print the object the Ultimaker S5 said that there was something wrong with the Gcode file. This happened for all the above slicers. So I tried to change the Gcode files to the style/flavor that Cura uses for the Ultimaker S5 which is "griffin" for what i know but still the same results.. Then I tried to use the header that was assigned for the Ultimaker 3: Did not expect it to work so no surprise there haha.. So my question now is: Is it even possible to use a other slicer then Cura for the Ultimaker S5? and if yes which one and how? Would love to hear stories from other users regarding this topic! Keep in mind I am not a expert at all!
  21. Hee Peerkaan, Mag ik vragen wat voor probleem je tegen kwam met het printen van woodfilament met 0,4mm nozzle ? ben dit namelijk zelf ook van plan te printen:D
  22. Good to hear I am not the only one waiting for the build plate! Lets hope someone at Ultimaker has some more information for us.
  23. Hello! Couple of weeks ago I ordered the aluminum build plate (From the link that was given with the purchase of the Ultimaker 5S). I did not get a email with conformation of the order, so I am a bit worried if the order got true yes or no. Is there any information about the estimated delivery time of these build plates? Any information/conformation is welcome! Iwan
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!