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Posts posted by IwanBeentjes

  1. 1 hour ago, P3D said:

    For brass fill, you probably shouldn't use the standard print cores anyway, as the nozzle will be abraded very quickly.

    this is part of the reason i asked the question in the first place as well, because if it where easy and risk free to remove the nozzle from the print core I could replace the original nozzle with an more abrasive resistant nozzle. unfortunately this is not the case and the CC 0.6 core seems to be the best solution for printing with abrasive materials.

  2. 18 hours ago, tomnagel said:

    have you tried this?




    I have yet to see the first case where disassembly is necessary. 



    That's exactly what we did for 20+ times before all of the inside was clean (we used 70% brass filled filament for the first time in an 0.4 AA core) I can say out of experience that you need at least an 0.6 or even an 0.8 core for that material haha.

  3. A quick and maybe a "stupid" question.. But is it possible to change the nozzles on a S5 printcore ?


    We had a clogged nozzle some weeks ago and struggled to unclog it properly, so we wanted to unscrew the nozzle on the printcore but this was really hard and I was scared of breaking it so we stopped 🙂 


    P.S. nozzle is unclogged now after 20+ cold/hot pulls


  4. Hi Dureiken,


    As the guys before me stated follow those steps first!


    Regarding PETG we experienced that the following settings worked best for us:


    Print Temp. 250

    Bed Temp. 85

    Retraction Distance 10mm

    Retraction Speed 35mm/s


    Also did we experience a lot of problems with printing infill patterns at a speed > 60mm/s

    To be safe I would recommend to print infill at a speed of 40mm/s max


    Hope this gives you a good start!

    • Like 1
  5. Second halve is being printed right now!


    the shape of the speaker is a replica of the B&W nautilus speaker https://www.bowers-wilkins.nl/Luidsprekers/Home_audio/Nautilus (Hope people can translate the page haha)

    These where claimed to be one of the best speakers with a price tag of $60.000 new.

    The real "science" behind the shape is a mystery for me as well as I am not an expert on sound, but the fact that a team of expert took 5 years to design the speaker in the above link and claim it to be the "best" speaker ever made gives some sort of confidence haha.


  6. Hello!


    For a project i am printing 2 Akemake spiral speakers as shown in this article: https://3dprint.com/5188/akemake-first-3d-printed-wood-speaker/

    Only difference with the article is that i am using 20% wood 80% PLA filament and not 100% wood as stated in the article (not even sure if 100% Wood is possible...) this one: https://www.123-3d.nl/123-3D-Filament-eikenhout-2-85-mm-PLA-0-5-kg-123-3D-huismerk-i1930-t12292.html (website is in Dutch but hope you get the point haha)

    Because Wood filament is not the easiest to print and people suggest to use a wider nozzle I used a 0.8AA nozzle on the Ultimaker S5


    This was the result!



    An overall great result!


    The only problem is that when a hole needs to be printed it looks like the printer skips a layer / jumps to a other spot or something like that...

    This obviously isn't a super big problem that cant be fixt with some sandpaper or lac but still its a bit annoying.


    I used the following settings in Cura:

    Layer Height: 0.2mm

    Line Width: 0.75m

    Wall Line Count: 2

    Top and Bottom layers: 5

    Infill %: 20%

    Infill Pattern: Gyroid

    Print Speed: 25mm/s

    Print Jerk: 25mm/s

    Printing Temp.: 210C

    Build Plate Temp.: 60C

    Z hop retract: on at 2mm

    Combing mode: On

    NO Support


    Hopefully someone can help me!




  7. I think people need some more information

    Like what printer do you have ?

    What are the dimensions of the objects ?



    I got an Ender 3 at home and in Cura it has the option to print "part for part" instead of layer by layer. Difference with the Ender 3 is that the heated bed moves in de Y axis and not the Z axis as the Ultimaker S5 does. Which makes hitting object you already printed less likely. This is probably the reason why the option is not showing when you have a Ultimaker printer selected in Cura. The risk of hitting an object and therefor damaging your printer is to high.


    You probably can "mislead" Cura and your printer but the real question is " is it worth the risk ? "

  8. I had no idea the aluminum build plate was part of the Ultimaker S5 package.. This is because I started working for a company that had already bought the Ultimaker before I started working there.


    Never the less I can understand the disappointment!


    Like shadowman stated a great way to come to even ground with us the costumers is to provide a temporary alternative like a second glass plate + adhesion sheets.





  9. First let me say that Cura is a great program and I am not here to be negative towards Ultimaker/Cura.


    We have an Ultimaker S5 for about a month now and printing with it is easy and the results are great.

    But as a proper geek I wanted more.... So I tried to make the following slicing programs work (to test results like: Speed, Material used, Quality etc.)

    • Simplify3D
    • Craftware
    • IceSL

    But after slicing and storing the Gcode on a USB drive and trying to print the object the Ultimaker S5 said that there was something wrong with the Gcode file. This happened for all the above slicers.


    So I tried to change the Gcode files to the style/flavor that Cura uses for the Ultimaker S5 which is "griffin" for what i know but still the same results.. 

    Then I tried to use the header that was assigned for the Ultimaker 3:

     Did not expect it to work so no surprise there haha..


    So my question now is: Is it even possible to use a other slicer then Cura for the Ultimaker S5? and if yes which one and how?

    Would love to hear stories from other users regarding this topic!


    Keep in mind I am not a expert at all!

  10. Hello!


    Couple of weeks ago I ordered the aluminum build plate (From the link that was given with the purchase of the Ultimaker 5S).

    I did not get a email with conformation of the order, so I am a bit worried if the order got true yes or no.


    Is there any information about the estimated delivery time of these build plates?


    Any information/conformation is welcome!



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