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    Ultimaker 3
    Ultimaker 2 Extended +
  1. Thanks for the video. It's very helpful. I did manage to print my box using Ultimaker CPE and the result was quite nice. A little stringy, but it cleaned up well. I still want to retry with ABS, but hadn't found a good way to cover the top until just recently, and with the US Holidays and surrounding vacation time I haven't had a chance to try it yet with the top cover, and likely also increased bed temp. I'm a little surprised you didn't mention covering the top in your video, since that seems to be a key part of getting ABS to stick.
  2. Mine's at work too. So far I'm just trying to get a copy paper box. The admin keeps setting one out and then custodial staff keeps throwing it away. We have the official front panel already. I just need to cover the top.
  3. I found that pre-heating the glass plate to 60 and letting it sit for a few minutes once it got there to even out greatly enhanced both the quality of my first layer and the adhesion on the corners.
  4. I have very carefully manually leveled the bed, and the first layer has looked very good as long as I pre-heat the bed. The standard pre-heat cycle doesn't seem to be long enough to get it up to temp. I've used a front cover (which I mentioned) but not a top cover. Is there a standard practice for how to do this without getting in the way of the tubes and cords? As for the ABS slurry, I don't know if acetone is on the list of allowed chemicals in our facility currently, but I could attempt to get it added if the ABS juice is likely to provide better results than an adhesion sheet. Are any of the tapes like Kapton any better than the Ultimaker adhesion sheets, or are they basically the same?
  5. TL;DR: How do I get ABS to stop warping for this box using an Ultimaker 3 (or 2+)? or XY problem version: How do I best print this box in a way that can withstand the heat of a car? Model Photos of results Background: I made a circuit to live in my car, and I designed a box to hold it. The box stl files are here with the primary bottom shell in BShell.stl and the top in TShell.stl. After some experimentation, I got this box to print reliably with PLA. Things I found to help included printing the shells one at a time, putting a layer of glue on the glass plate, using a front cover, and pre-heating the build plate. I also got less warping with a 0.2 layer height, but preferred the smoothness of 0.1, and was able to get a good result with it. Unfortunately, with my car parked in the sun, my PLA box got soft and deformed. I set out to try ABS. On my first attempt, I used the same techniques that worked well for PLA, but the part warped very quickly after I started and delaminated completely from the glue layer. Good thing I was watching since it would have damaged the print core if it kept going. Next I tried using an adhesion sheet. This gave me a really nice first layer, but after a while, it still lifted on the back right corner and created a bit of a mess. I made one more attempt and used 0.2mm layer height, since that helped me before. This time it didn't make a big mess, but I still got some lift on the same corner which made for some strange results. From what I've read, I'm doing all the right things to help ABS to not warp, I think this box is just a challenge because of the large flat bottom surface. Are there any additional things that would help? Certain tweaks to the settings, like bed temp, that might help this case? Other materials on the plate that might keep it from lifting? I'm a bit limited in chemicals I can use since I'm in a restricted space, and new chemicals require a whole process to be approved for safety, which makes trying new things hard. Would a higher quality ABS work better? Is Ultimaker brand ABS high quality? Alternatively, is there some other technique I could use, like a different material? Perhaps CPE? It seems like it's more temperature resistant than PLA. Perhaps it would be sufficient. Is it easier to print without warping? Thanks very much for any tips.
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