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DivingDuck

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Everything posted by DivingDuck

  1. @mlitzkow, Do not use the links from the first post as they are outdated since end of last year. Pls. read the last 6 posts above your post and you will find the correct links.
  2. Looking on your screenshot I guess you are already in the menu path -->Software -->UltiMaker Cura -->Cura print settings Go one step back and click on top left link Software and then start again with Ultimaker Cura Or the other route via top main menu: -->Home -->Software --> UltiMaker Cura This is what I meant.
  3. W/o further information it's quite difficult to give any useful help. Check your gcode file. Maybe the file and/or the sd card are corrupt or something had interrupted the output process for the gcode.
  4. Maybe it's a good idea to make a new thread with actual links in the first post including a link to this thread and then replace this pinned thread with the new one. It is quite a shame that no one from UltiMaker is able to redirect these old support links automatically to to their new locations or even edit the first posting with new links. I saw these kind of question since starting early this year over and over again. Regarding the link https://support.makerbot.com/s/topic/0TO5b000000Q4utGAC/ultimaker-cura, this shows greatly how support is disqualifying the own effort. This page was maybe meant as an useful entry point but a visitor only understand there are no articles available. Clicking the links above (e.g. Cura print settings) will guide the user to the correct place but most users don't get this because they where told "no articles found". A "slick" remark like "Hey here is something to find if you click on the menu above" would explain a lot for a user who is looking for help and information. Maybe one of the now responsible persons of these support pages is able at least to place a helpful instruction text on that page and hide this not helpful stupid text. And please go over the complete menu structure from beginning (https://support.makerbot.com/s/) to the last element in the structure as there are more of these quirks. @MariMakes, maybe you can push this a little bit? 🙂
  5. ABS isn't a good choice for outdoor. UV and weather resistance it is not good in general. Better alternatives for this use case are PETG and ASA. For printing ASA you need a well vented Room as the fumes are not healthy (same as for ABS). I usually print this material outside with an enclosed printer. Making prints for outside you should take the color of a print as well in consideration. Dark colors have a higher heat absorption then bright colors. Most of the time I choose PETG because easier to print end its better flexibility is often a plus. ASA is more temperature resistent and is from its mechanical properties more close to ABS. You can smooth out surfaces easily with vaporized acetone if needed.
  6. Nein, ich meinte die Art und Weise, wie in dem von dir verlinkten Video mit der Thematik umgegangen wurde. Davon war ich eher weniger angetan und es für mich als negatives Beispiel der Wissensvermittlung oder zum Anfixen für ein Thema abstempeln. Zu viel Effekthascherei und wenig substanzielles. Deine Arbeit hast du für mein Verständnis sehr gut dargestellt und kommentiert. Was die Grenzwerte betrifft, da gibt es in der Industrie schon bestehende Grenzwerte außerhalb der 3D-Druck Thematik, die sich auch in Arbeitsplatzverordnungen verpflichtend widerspiegeln (Arbeitsplatzschutz, in der Industrie ein sehr ernstes Thema). Ethylbenzol wäre ein Beispiel hierzu. Auch wenn die "nur" den Nachweis erbracht hast, dass dieser in den Messungen aufgetaucht ist, würde ich für mich spätestens jetzt entscheiden, dass ein 3D-Drucker weder in einem Schlafzimmer, oder noch viel schlimmer, in einem Kinderschlafzimmer zu suchen hat (nur so als Beispiel). Vielleicht hätte ich statt Grenzwerte eher Beispiele sagen sollen und warum man einige der entdeckten Substanzen nicht unbedingt in seiner direkten Umgebung permanent haben möchte. Mir ist klar, dass Grenzwerte und die von dir ermittelten Werte so nicht in Einklang zu bringen sind und auch nicht Ziel der Übung war. Die Schwierigkeit bei dem Thema ist, dass der normale Mensch (nicht abwertend gemeint) mit solchen Daten nichts bis wenig anfangen kann - zumindest wenn er nicht Berufsbedingt oder wegen sonstigen Themenfeldern damit in Berührung gekommen ist. Um das Ethylbenzol nochmals zu bemühen (welches ich hierbei einfach als Beispiel ohne Hintergedanken herausgepickt habe), klingt doch schön und macht einem so gar keine Angst, oder? Nun ja, am Arbeitsplatz würde dort wahrscheinlich sofort eine ordentliche Absauganlage stehen um als Arbeitgeber nicht in rechtliche Zwickmühle zu geraten (zumindest bei Unternehmen, mit denen ich zu tun hatte). Das gilt übrigens auch, wenn Grenzwerte noch nicht überschritten werden. Da lassen sich dann unter Anderen auch die so allerseits beliebten "Zahlenschubser" ganz schnell eines Besseren belehren. Es bleibt alles in Allem ein interessantes Thema.
  7. @rooiejoris, beside from what @ahoeben already said, you need to build a complete set of configuration files. A printer configuration is always a set of files and not only one file. The best way doing this is looking for a similar existing printer in the Cura program folder and look for all involved configuration files. You don't need to copy or modify the files fdmprinter.def.json or fdmextruder.def.json. Those files are general configuration and definition files. You need to build the same folder structure and files in your user configuration folder definitions\ -->your printer definition file, like myprinter.def.json extruders\ -->your extruder declarations, like myprinter_extruder_0.def.json, myprinter_extruder_1.def.json ... materials\ --> in case you have own material definition files, like mymaterial_petg.xml.fdm_material, ... meshes\ --> your bed mesh file as .stl, obj or 3mf file, like mymesh.obj or mymesh.stl mymesh.3mf quality\ --> in case you want to build your own quality files, like myprinter_global_Coarse_Quality.inst.cfg, ... variants\ -->definitions of different nozle sizes for your extruder definition, like myprinter_0.4tpnozzle.inst.cfg, ... In addition you need to take care of file naming as this is like an identification number of what belongs to a set of printer definitions (see the name repeating myprinter in my example). General rule of thumb and some hints: Each file have some entries that need to be set, like version, setting_version, name, or for the printer definition file the line inherits of file fdmprinter (same for extruder ). An other rule is to set only values that are special to your printer and differ from what is already set up in fdmprinter.def.json or fdmextruder.def.json (less is better, as it can hit you by future updates). For material there is an entry called GUID. You don't want to set this manually. this will be build from Cura as this an unique id number. For mesh, you may need to adjust the orientation / position depending on how the origin was defined for the mesh. Look for "platform_offset" in the printer definition file like myprinter.def.json I have attache an old sample configuration I did long time ago. It may help you to understand how to build your own profiles. If I remember correct, it was based on the printer hms434. But in the end the best teacher is the Cura resources folder. As the last point I want to mention, take a look in the Cura log file with each change you make in a profile. The log is very detailed and in most cases you find good hints where the problem is, like wrongly written key words, forgotten quotation mark etc. Cura_profile example.zip
  8. Ein interessantes Thema, dem leider viel zu wenig Interesse entgegengebracht wird. Vielleicht auch, weil es dem Hobby gegenüber kontraproduktiv sein könnte. Was das Video betrifft, da habe ich recht gemischte Gefühle. Ein typisches Youtube Video frei nach dem Motto: Ich habe ein Gadget und muss damit doch irgend was sinnvolles machen können. Der Name des Kanals scheint hier für mein Gefühl zu sehr Programm zu sein. Ich weiß nicht was und wie gemessen wird und irgendwas werden die diffusen "Messwerte" (kann man das so verallgemeinern?) schon aussagen. Was vielleicht für das bessere Verständnis deiner Daten helfen würde, wären die zugehörigen Grenzwerte (für die Einordnung der Messwerte). Deine Schlussfolgerungen sind sehr ehrlich und gut auf den Punkt gebracht und mich würden zukünftige weitere Berichte diesbezüglich auf jeden Fall interessieren.
  9. This looks like the first filament layers are printed too hot and there was no time for the filament to cooling down enough. Looking in your project file (CE3E3V2_ButtonSlide5_45) I see that your cooling is off for the first 4 layers. For normal prints this is ok but for your tiny print this will not work out well and the layer will melt and sagging downwards as you can see in your print. Try to start printing layer one with little fan involved (for good adhesion) ) and at layer two with 100%. For those kind of parts it is sometimes good to play a little bit with filament temperature and fan settings as printing time for such small areas is too short for cooling down the former printed layer. Sometimes it may also help to print a additional part parallel giving the layers more time to cool down for the next layer. Edit: This maybe as well happen with your last test Edit, one more: Take a look for support entries. There is a setting called "Fan speed overwrite"
  10. Vielleicht funktioniert das auch bei UM Die üblichen Kandidaten für Informationen via Gcode wären: M503 zum Anzeigen der gespeicherten Werte M92 zum Einstellen der Steps pro mm, M92 ohne weitere Werte sollte die eingestellten Werte ausgeben können Eine gute Quelle für Gcode Befehle und deren Bedeutung z.B. :https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code oder die einschlägigen Seiten der Firmwarehersteller
  11. Try to print it on an angel of 45°. See attached file. In general, w/o having a project file no one can see which of your settings are wrong. It should be quite easy to save your project file with short cut [strg]+[s] or -->file -->Save Project via menu. 🙂 ButtonSlide5.3mf
  12. Das Plugin auf Version 1.2.1 updaten/installieren (https://github.com/smartavionics/RawMouse/releases) und in 3DConnexion alle Einstellungen unter erweiterte Einstellungen für das Cura-Profil deaktivieren.
  13. This may help: Change "c:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 5.1.1\Ultimaker-Cura.exe" to "c:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 5.4.0\Ultimaker-Cura.exe" BTW, I'm not aware that Cura ever had open a native f3d file. Cura opens .m3f, .stl and .obj files as fare I know.
  14. In this print print orientation it isn't possible to fully remove the stair effect as the nozzle tip is not in in the same angel as your model surface. You can minimize the effect by reducing the layer height at the cost of a much longer printing time. An other, maybe better way is to lay down the model to the flat surface if you need a decent flat surface. The third option is to place the model on an angle at the bed at the cost of a needed support structure and higher printing time.
  15. Most of this was done by @ghostkeeper. Luckily you can find the original documentation at his github repository called SettingGuide in a better readable format here: https://github.com/Ghostkeeper/SettingsGuide/blob/master/resources/articles/machine_settings/machine_nozzle_tip_outer_diameter.md
  16. -->Marketplace -->Manage Packages -->USB Printing -->Disable
  17. PETG with 225°C is quite low. No wonder that your extruder skips. Is this really the manufacturer recommendation? PETG is usually in a range form 230 to 250 °C. Try the middle of what the manufacturer recommend, this is usually a good starting point.
  18. Cura behaves different with placing a model as a .STL or .3mf file. While a .STL file will be placed in the middle of the print plate, it will place a .3mf file related on the model coordinates and its center of origin in xy. This is what you are recognize when you import your model as 3mf. Here a example how Cura behaves with a simple model exported from Fusion360: Model (out of center of origin at x=-15mm,y=20mm): Imported as STL: 3mf import: The mentioned machine setting for center of origin defines the center of origin how the printer interpret the coordinate system. This is for a rectangular bed usually at the front/left side at xy 0,0 (as you can see in my pictures above). For a round bed it is in the center of the bed at xy 0,0. For my bed center of origin is xy 0,0 while center in the middle looks like below. This do not change the behavior for importing a model and where the model is placed.
  19. This is why I set it the most time to my own preference ("User Specified"). Gives me mostly less hassle between versions and mostly better and repeatable results (at least felt like).
  20. Guess, his main problem is that there is no honeycomb infill in Cura. The model need to to be changed to have this feature itself if he want to slice it with Cura. Or he use a slicer that support honeycomb infill.
  21. @gr5, Ups, you are absolutely right. I can't believe I wrote that, but reading my post again, I have... shame on me. Maybe I need to ask S. Freud what was wrong writing this nonsense. For the bed I wanted to write 80°C. 240°C is my filament temperature.
  22. Seems like you have an old version installed. Remove the old plugin and install the actual one (version 1.2.1) from this repository: https://github.com/smartavionics/RawMouse/releases For Windows it should work fine with Cura 5.3.1 (at least for my installation)
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