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Everything posted by Clayton_Timmons

  1. Someone please put up those pics of food. I'm curious as well. Does not Cura have an addon available with which the required volume flow rate can be specified and all of the settings would fall into place more or less? I hate the fact that my CuraLE is set to only a percentage. If I want to play with the volume flow rate I will need to see what a certain average volume/sec is doing to my prints.. I also want to see that the volume flow rate is staying consistent.
  2. 3 years after original post above! I love T-glase. The first comment I have is that too many printers act like they are metophorically on "speed." Taulman's recommendation for T-glase is a good one. I print T-glase at 245-250 and 28 with bed temp at 60. I got that directly from Taulman who uses it to print vases for conventions. If you don't have a PEI sheet on your build bed use a glue stick. I recommend a PEI. Everything sticks to it. Regarding the point of printing slowly: My daughter and I are "Whovians" and I printed a blue "Tardis" drinking cup first time out. Normally printers will be cautioned not to print for direct food contact. Theory: if you print very slowly the filament gets more heat and gives more time for the layers to flow together leaving less room for bacteria between the layers. It's common sense. T-glase will take pretty hot temps as 100 is boiling and print temps are over 2.5 times that. Research has shown that even medical equipment can be sterilized in a dishwasher. If there is space between the layers steam will get into it. I am a respiratory therapist and read the research myself in the 80's. While this is a little off topic I am (or will be) also using a steel nozzle, not brass to avoid lead in my prints. The point is if you want your prints to stick, SLOW DOWN! 3D printing and "cocaine" don't mix. 🙂
  3. Hey digger! Inkscape can do this with an svg file. In point of fact this is one of the steps pointed to in an earlier post. Here is a link to a specific method. https://www.lifewire.com/turn-2d-image-into-3d-model-2293 This ought to get you where you want to go.
  4. I saw a YouTube Video about a week ago on how to import a jpeg using this emblem and "raise" it using Blender. It was pretty interesting/fun. Can't wait to try it. Probably old news though.
  5. Digger, regarding your dog the easiest thing to do from what I understand given what you say you want is to download an stl or obj or fff file into Blender. I understand that it's possible to do. https://www.google.com/search?q=3d+printable+husky+dog&rlz=1C1ZCEB_enUS807US807&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiXq93TtfPeAhXrlOAKHWdRDbsQsAR6BAgEEAE&biw=1405&bih=713#imgrc=Vu3G-kCJXdKMTM: If all you want to do is to print a model and paint, why reinvent the wheel? If you have a 3D printer just download and print through Cura, or Slice3R (free) or Simplify. Good luck. I have a couple of dogs I miss as well and several cats.
  6. I think this was a really old post however it is interesting. I just looked and found sources for wire frames for download. Taxidermy, which is essentially what digital artists are doing entails drawing a "skin" over a model. As I said I am not an animator as yet. The only thing I have done is the tornado for a Wizard of Oz production for the art class I taught. It took almost 17000 frames. However I don't see this as a huge problem. Good luck with it CT. The benefit of a lot of work is having your best friends avatar digitized and moving around on screen so you can visit when ever you want. :-)
  7. I have been into photography since the early 90's. It is possible to use the available brushes in Photoshop or Paint Shop Pro to adjust things like hair etc. I also do a trick where I scan actual hair at a very high resolution and Clone it. Since then I have been obsessed with not only creating new images from multiple images but finding ways to make my images more realistic. Just now I watched a Blender Tutorial which demos how to convert a 2D object into a 3D object by first pulling up the object in InkScape, as a PNG then saving as an SVG. You can then pull the image up in Blender and convert it to 3D. No one wants to recreate an image they have drawn as a beautiful 2D image so it can be animated. I am going through the Blender Classes and it will be a bit before I am proficient with 2D to 3D conversion. This is a drawing of mine that I want to convert. I used a wire brush for the hair. I do not know if there is that kind of digital brush available in blender or another application but given the beautiful 3D movies we have where we can see the hair flowing in the wind I am pretty certain it is not that hard.
  8. Cloak friend, it depends on shutter speed and aperture. It also helps to use a tripod. But we are talking about a deceased friend here. I have not used it but I am told that the free photogrammy software will take as many photos as you have and put them together. The more photos the better.
  9. I am researching this topic and from what I can tell it's possible using Blender. I think it requires a wire frame. Blender if you aren't familiar is free. You can also set up a factory file.
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