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  1. I changed out the bowden tubes with Capricorn XS to help the flexible retracts, but other than that and some (lots) of tuning, I run Recreus 70A flexible and ABS multi-material prints without too much stringing and blobs. For reference, ninjaflex is 85A, so the 70A I print with is especially challenging. To make it run, I slow way down (20-30mm/s) put flow up (108%) and am currently running retracts at 13mm. I would start much lower and work your way up, as you probably wont need that much with a harder material. I got real nice prints out of the ultimaker TPU, but it is just too hard for the
  2. I am sure they figured out that everything but Mic6 or ATP5 aluminum warps into a potato chip after a couple thermal cycles, and even the $$$ Mic6 will warp eventually at the thickness of an S5 build plate. I am curious what they hoped to accomplish with the aluminum build plate though. Usually a sheet of PEI (also $$$ at that size) goes on the aluminum for ABS and polycarbonate adhesion, but i had heard no mention of that from them. Were they planning on running straight on the AL? I am not sure about the heat transfer of PEI stuck to glass, but I may try it with the second glass
  3. Ahhh, yup. The sliding block (thanks for the correct terminology) has maybe +/- 0.020" of play on the belt. Makes an audible thunk when i twist the axis. I will contact the reseller and see what they say.
  4. Sign me up for this too. At the very least, the LED should go out when its done printing, not stay on until after i hit confirm removal. If i have a print that finishes at Friday at 7pm, I dont want the printer light on at full blast all weekend. A setting of "upon print completion" with a 3 step slider with settings of "off" "dim" and "flash" would be great.
  5. Thanks, but unfortunately it isn't a loose belt. The belt is tight, but the plastic coupling that wraps around the belt and supports the x axis rod slides back and forth on the belt. The rest of them grip tight and have 0 movement. It looks like they just unclip and pop off, but considering its only 2 weeks old, I don't want to break something and be down a printer when its just causing some rough prints now.
  6. The left belt coupling on the x axis is loose on the belt on my 2 week old S5. Twisting the x axis, i can get a half a tooth worth of movement as it slides along the belt. How do I go about tightening that up? I dont want to just start tearing it apart. I have already had to do the axis alignment to fix slop in the x axis shaft that was there on delivery, and I imagine i will have to do that again once that block is fixed.
  7. Here is the profile that I have had very good dimensional results with. The ringing in this one is no worse than the stock "fast" profile, at least for me. It's good enough for the parts I print, where dimensions are far more important than looks. If you find any tweaks that improve upon this, please let me know. DIMENSIONAL PROFILE.curaprofile
  8. The main improvements came from turning off acceleration and jerk control, and setting all the speeds the same (at 35-40mm/s). For what I use it for (making jigs, gages and samples for plastic extrusion) the 0.3 layer height gives the best combination of strength, speed and detail. I still need to tune out some vibrations showing up in that profile, but I have a bunch of 1-2 hour prints to do, so hopefully I can get something solid enough to post soon. You will still probably need to tweak it a bit for your individual machine for best results, but it should get you in the ball park
  9. I set my S5 up Friday, and had a clicky x axis bar. Run through the calibration that was posted above, and that should take care of the mechanical part. I have also learned that the default profiles included with cura are in no way appropriate for engineering level work. Right now i have it set up on the tough PLA with a .3 layer height, .35 line width, 99% flow, 40mm/s speed on everything except the first layer, and acceleration and jerk control turned off, and uncheck infill before walls. This is producing beautiful prints that are within 0.001" for me. This could probably use some more twea
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