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Everything posted by ScanHD

  1. Thanks so much, i had no idea it was a zip file! i opened with 7zip and compared the gcode.... is anybody able to say which lines of code it is that i should be adding? screenshot betow for clarity.. Thanks in advance
  2. Hello everybody. im having trouble printing a model that has always printed sucessfilly previously, but im using a new material and the for some reason its missing some of the lettering at the very beginning. My suspission is that its not primed properly. is there a way to as a prime blob to the .ufp file to ensure it is primed? recreating the program in cura is not an option as it took me a long time to get the settings right and i lost the cura file. any help is apreciated.
  3. To my eye, the video shows a standard S5 printer in the first half, then a s5 ontop some kind of base/tank in the 2nd half.... so its unlikley to be a resin printer. the 2nd image also shows an enclosure on the top, so i deduce that this must be a necessary add-on for what is coming?
  4. You could try using a raft? Also it's important to let the print cool. I run mine under water and they release ok.
  5. Great idea!! It may be worth considering how the diameter of the remaining material affects the length relationship to thickness. It's hard to tell if it is or not... But the scale shouldn't be linear.
  6. I'm in the business of laser scanning if anybody needs a high resolution high accuracy scan of anything please get in touch and I'll see what I can do.
  7. Where are you? I get 1kg of matte forge posted for £30. It don't get much cheaper
  8. I've gonr through a 1kg spool of matte forge now.... I'm pleased with the Finnish although it could be more matte. The layer adhesion isn't as good as normal PLA either
  9. anybody still using this filament? i REALLY like the look of it but layer adhesion is far inferior to normal PLA. Is 220 mentioned above really a good printing temp?
  10. i have the Accante one. does the job! its a little tricky to assemble but once its made it looks great and its completely transparent which makes monitoring prints a breeze. there's a door in the front/top so you can maintain the head without taking it off.
  11. for those that are interested. that setting entirely cured the problem. id recommend this for thin walled parts that have support on both sides of the wall. see before and after pics
  12. There is an option "limit support retractions" which remover retractions when moving in a straight line between 2 supports. I'll try reprinting without this enabled.
  13. it appears that travels might be to blame? on each layer the travels happen before the shell of that layer, but i guess it's affecting the layer below?
  14. Hello everybody, im reaching out for some advice on how to improve the quality of this print as it has me stumped. The part is a piece of plastic trim i reverse engineered from the original part and will be used on a show car so must really look great. With that in mind, i printed the part in a specific orientation, and moved the z-seam top always the back (unseen) side of the part. see below Ultimaker S5 Cure 4.1 retraction is on. 0.2 layer height support is printed in TPLA with Brakeaway roof/floor
  15. After I had my WiFi card replaced at the reseller, I was able to update to the latest firmware successfully. So far so good. Although I've only done a few basic prints. And I can turn the frame light off!!! At last 🙂
  16. I had to send my s5 to the reseller to fix this issue. New WiFi board fixed the problem
  17. you work for ultimaker?.... I find it hard to understand how you can be so facetious and sarcastic to your customers. Customers who you "as a company" have already alienated.
  18. Well said. Shame on you Ultimaker!!! Your leaving us all hang out to dry 😞
  19. i have this same problem recently. did you find a solution?
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