aag

The only thing that I find disappointing about the new UI is that it appears not to react to any kind of touch-screen input. Or is there a way to enable that?

..and since I am in the mood of griping about design issues, is there a way (or some hack) to prevent the glass plate from sliding sideways? This happens with really large prints (of course), ideally after 3 days of nonstop printing, so that it will ruin at least 40 bucks worth of material, not to speak of the wasted time... 😱💣💥

I do apologize, I meant no offense. But the service guy here in Switzerland told me that they continuously have warranty issues with the fan bracket. I tried to contact UM headquarters but they told me off, they said I should talk to the local representative. None of this is great, if you ask me. It's also against their interest; if they have to service a lot of machines this will eat their profit.

BTW what is exactly the "capacitance plate" on the back of the fan bracket? It has two wires connecting to it.

It is unbelievable that UM sells a machine for almost $6000 and does not even provide a reasonably-engineered printhead.

Ahh, many many thanks! that's a million times better than my quick-and-dirty little thingy. Might you perhaps share also the STEP file (or whatever original format you have), so that I can play around with it a bit? You might also consider sharing it on GrabCad etc. 🙂

Good point. I'll make a grid.

I reported earlier that I had a horrible crash. The S5 fan bracket spontaneously opened, and destroyed itself by crashing into the workpiece. Thankfully, UM recognized this as a warranty issue and sent me the replacement parts. I am now thinking of ways to prevent this in the future. As a quick hack, I am designing a printable safety latch meant to secure the fan bracket. See below. If anybody feels like improving it, here is the model (Fusion 360): https://a360.co/2EnafZn

Thank you Erin, highly appreciated. However, I had no problem detaching the cable. The problem is the next step. Something is preventing the plastic cover of the printhead from being lifted. I think that the reason is that the circuit board is attached to the Y rod (you can see the hole also in your video). Does this mean that I need to remove all the rods from the frame in order to remove the printhead? (which begets the question of how to do that...) Thanks!

I need to replace the printhead of my S5. I can easily remove the fan bracket. However, I have trouble removing the upper part of the housing. The wire connector needs to be removed, but it is attached to the back plate that contains some electronics, and I haven't found an easy way to remove it. Can somebody instruct me on how to proceed?

ahh, very smart, thanks.

Peggyb can you post a pic? I am interested in your technique but I do not understand what you mean. Thanks in advance.

I have now repaired my S5 printhead after a disastrous crash. But I still cannot print anything. The S5 starts active leveling, but stops in mid-air, long before the print bed has reached the nozzles, and gives up with the message that Active Leveling is not possible. I have performed Manual Leveling, twice, but this did not resolve the issue. Strangely enough, XY calibration seems to work all right, and that includes a round of Active Leveling as well. I conclude that there is nothing intrinsically preventing Active Leveling, and that the sensors triggered by the contact of the nozzle with the glass plate are not broken. What might be the problem then?

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thank you!

After all I may be able to repair the disastrous head crash that I reported earlier today. Four wires were ripped out, and I have now identified them correctly, soldered and replaced them. However, I am stuck with the metal plate for the silicone covers. It seems that two metal plates have fallen out of the printhead. It is unclear to me how to insert the second metal plate. Might a good soul instruct me on what to do?

ok, maybe the damage is contained. The fan bracket has been thrown off the hinges, but the hinges seem intact. I could try to reposition it. But can somebody tell me where the three wires have to go? There is a black, a white, and a transparent wire coming from the printhead going to the fan. I guess it's the positve, negative, and tacho signal lead - but where do I attach them?

The fan bracket of the UMS5 is held in place only by two small magnets. This week I had a 5-day print going, and in the middle of the night of day #3, the fan bracket seems to have spontaneously opened. As a result, the printhead moved against the model, and the fan bracket was kicked out of its joints. I think that the upper part of the printhead plastic enclosure is also damaged (at the hinges that attach the fan bracket), and there are three wires coming out of the printhead which are now unattached. I expect that this is a warranty case. I handled the printer appropriately and there was nothing that I could do to prevent this from happening. I believe that the magnetic holders of the fan bracket are too weak and there is always the risk of unintended falling-off. This really is poor engineering and should be changed! Might you advise me on what to do? I would not want to send in the whole printer for repair, since the shipment would be very expensive. If Ultimaker sends me a replacement printhead, I believe that I might be able replace it myself. Is that a reasonable course of action?

Extremely interesting and totally useful, many thanks!!! Do I interpret the graphs correctly to conclude that transparent polycarbonate (UM filament) beats Tough PLA in terms of both strength and Young's modulus? However, it is surprising that the graphs shows "generic PLA" to be stronger than Tough PLA.

I need to produce a prototype (with an Ultimaker S5) that can withstand some serious mechanical stress. What is the strongest material that I can use for that? I am currently using "Tough PLA", but ideally I'd like something tougher. Much tougher, if possible...

I am printing several perforated tiles. I like to print them horizontally, because that does not need support in the holes. But they take up a lot of space, hence I'd like to print a bunch of them on top of each other to save me time and nerves.

Quick question. Is there a way to instruct Cura to print models on top of each other, separated by a layer of support?

My UM S5 has an issue that I do not understand. When I start the print, it brings up the plate, it does the active levelling ... and then the printhead goes to the left back corner, both LEDs on the printhead stay red, and the display says "Ready to print". And nothing happens. Then I reluctantly cycle the power (I haven't found a way to do a "warm reboot"), and randomly, on the 2nd or on the 5h attempt, the UM starts printing. This is very frustrating. What might possibly be going on?

I have an UM S5, and I need to better understand the relationship between printhead movement velocity and print quality. Until yesterday, I always left the speed at the default value, which I think is 45 mm/s. Then, upon reading some posts here, I stepped up to 70 mm/s. The result was a horribly clogged AA0.4 print core, with an enormous blob of PLA encapsulating the nozzle and large parts of the print core! I managed to remove (most of) the debris with a combination of hot-air gun and dental surgical instruments. Now I have reduced the speed to 30 mm/s, and the current print seems to be OK. However, I am not even sure that the printhead accident had anything to do with the increased speed (although it seems likely). Might community members please elaborate on speeds appropriate for various materials and nozzles, and offer some advice? Thanks in advance!

Thanks! Very useful tips. I also use UM materials, except for Dupont Hytrel which is a fantastic elastomer, incredibly malleable.