aag

Stef, what do you exactly mean with "slow speed"? How slow for 0.4 and for 0.25 cores, respectively? With which materials? I am experimenting with a lot of settings, and I am learning by trial-and-error - but I wouldn't mind avoiding (at least some) errors...

I also stopped. I see no difference. The shield seems a good thing though. Less stringing, I believe.

I think that it is very unfortunate that UM does not even bother to display which one of the two extruders is down. It doesn't seem too much to ask.

what do you think of the idea of improving the polybox by adding a Reptile Heating Pad?

...or is PLA simply not the right material? Would I obtain more strength from e.g. polycarbonate?

I am trying to print some M10 screws with tough PLA. With the AA0.25 nozzle, the resolution is very good and the threads are usable without modifications. However, the screws are simply not strong enough; the threaded part snaps away from the head as soon as I give some torque. I thought that my Cura settings would be really strong, but that was not the case. Which settings are critical in order to achieve the strongest possible print? If push comes to shove, I'd even print everything solid (100% infill) but when I tried that setting Cura would still leave a lot of open space (maybe because of the gradual infill, or something).

Thank you. Are there any Cura settings that would make a prime tower redundant? Does it make sense to print the "shield" with Extruder 1 (PLA), and would that to some extent replace the need for a prime tower?

Good point. I think that I will not make any moves until Bondtech provides a plug-and-play replacement with obvious, documented advantages.

Is there some specific setting in Cura that minimizes the chances that UMS5 will knock off the prime tower? This happens of course with the largest/tallest prints, which are the most expensive ones, and typically ruins the model because it gets all stringed on one side...

I agree, I have no complaints from the UM feeders. Today I cleaned them up for the first time, and I noticed that they have only one knurled wheel. Theoretically, I could imagine that knurled wheels on both sides may give an edge, particularly with softer materials. But it may just as well be a marketing thing and nothing else.

I have an Ultimaker 5S and I am looking at the Bondtech "feeder upgrade" kit. Did anybody replace the UM feeder with this one? Are the experiences positive or negative? Thank you for any feedback!

Thank you. This is very useful advice, highly appreciated!

Magnets are a great idea - thanks! In the meantime, the whole enchilada is (almost) starting to look the way I wanted...

I need some design advice. I am making a parametric box out of "tough PLA". It's divided into 4 components because the footprint is larger than the print volume; the components are held together with "fingers" and receptacles; clearance is 400 microns (isotropic) which is sufficiently precise for my needs. The question is: what is the preferred way to design a latch that keeps the lid closed and (somewhat) secured? I was thinking of some sliding part, but I am unsure about the best-practice. Any advice would be welcome! The model is here, by the way: https://a360.co/2TjUQPA If you find it useful, feel free to utilize, modify, etc.

Thanks! Are you saying that it is not advisable to pass the needle completely through the nozzle? Even if it is a 0.2mm needle going through a 0.4mm nozzle?

Are these things actually useful for unclogging nozzles? Or are they harmful? I am asking because they seem practical, yet there may be a reason why UM does not recommend them.

it seems to work now, for the first time ever. I am sure it is because of the bundled telepathic force of the community...

I kept it for 12 hours in a food dryer with warm air at 60°C, It's not really brittle, but on the test extrusion it does not make the cracking sounds typical of steam.

I hate to admit that I have never been able to print any PVA with my Ultimaker S5. I have no problems with PLA and breakaway. But PVA, it always clogs the print core, immediately. I have tried BB0.4 and BB0.8, and both get clogged. I have cleaned the cores with cleaning filament until I got blue in the face. After cleaning, the PVA extrudes nicely for a meter or 2, and then it clogs again. It drives me crazy. What can I do???

I think I will use a thermostat like this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/12V-High-Precision-Thermostat-Digital-Dual-Relay-Alarm-Thermometer-Temperature-Controller-Air-Regulator/32842614345.html It has two relays, which in principle would allow to control both the fan and the heater.

If I understand correctly how these thermistors work, the surface temperature is constant, and the heating power will depend on the dissipation (=airflow), which in turn can be controlled by replacing the (probably horrible and loud) included fan with a nice Pabst high-quality voltage-controlled fan.

sorry, now corrected.

I thought that I might attach something like this to the cover: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Black-NEW-100W-12V-DC-PTC-Fan-Heater-Constant-Temperature-Incubator-Hot-Space-Thermostat/32839650955.html It would still need some kind of thermostat though. It's going to be a rather involved modification, I fear.

I have no other option but to place my Ultimaker S5 in an unheated basement room. This was fine until the room temperature dropped to 10°C (or less), and now it is becoming impossible to get good prints. Breakaway and PLA tend to warp horribly, and I presume that this is because of the huge temperature gradient: the newly added layers cool down too quickly and contract, whereas the lower layers are kept warm by the heated bed plate. How can I remedy to this situation? As I said, moving the printer is not an option. Heating the whole room is impractical and too expensive. I was thinking of adding a cover (https://accante.com/en/) but I fear that this is not going to be enough. Are there any add-ons that would allow to keep a well-controlled air temperature within the printing chamber?

The most important thing about notifications would be to alert of any issues arising at the printer, such as leveling problems, nozzle hiccups, flow sensor issues etc. However, the UM app (android) only sends a notification about the start of the print (which is useless; after all I know when the print was started) and its end. What is worse, the app declares that the print process is running, even if the camera clearly shows that it is stalled. Maybe it's just me and there are some settings somewhere that I haven't found. But I really really strongly feel: if you (UM) go through the trouble of writing a notification app, be sure to notify of any errors/exceptions.