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Everything posted by aag

  1. I think I will use a thermostat like this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/12V-High-Precision-Thermostat-Digital-Dual-Relay-Alarm-Thermometer-Temperature-Controller-Air-Regulator/32842614345.html It has two relays, which in principle would allow to control both the fan and the heater.
  2. If I understand correctly how these thermistors work, the surface temperature is constant, and the heating power will depend on the dissipation (=airflow), which in turn can be controlled by replacing the (probably horrible and loud) included fan with a nice Pabst high-quality voltage-controlled fan.
  3. I thought that I might attach something like this to the cover: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Black-NEW-100W-12V-DC-PTC-Fan-Heater-Constant-Temperature-Incubator-Hot-Space-Thermostat/32839650955.html It would still need some kind of thermostat though. It's going to be a rather involved modification, I fear.
  4. I have no other option but to place my Ultimaker S5 in an unheated basement room. This was fine until the room temperature dropped to 10°C (or less), and now it is becoming impossible to get good prints. Breakaway and PLA tend to warp horribly, and I presume that this is because of the huge temperature gradient: the newly added layers cool down too quickly and contract, whereas the lower layers are kept warm by the heated bed plate. How can I remedy to this situation? As I said, moving the printer is not an option. Heating the whole room is impractical and too expensive. I was thin
  5. The most important thing about notifications would be to alert of any issues arising at the printer, such as leveling problems, nozzle hiccups, flow sensor issues etc. However, the UM app (android) only sends a notification about the start of the print (which is useless; after all I know when the print was started) and its end. What is worse, the app declares that the print process is running, even if the camera clearly shows that it is stalled. Maybe it's just me and there are some settings somewhere that I haven't found. But I really really strongly feel: if you (UM)
  6. I am trying to make threaded bars and bolts from PLA with an UM S5 (Nozzles: AA0.4, Breakaway as support). What I have (unsurprisingly) found out, is that the components are perfectly flush in the design, they will not fit. What kind of spacing would people use in situations like this one (M6 screw)? Before spending the rest of the day with trials-and-errors, I thought I might ask the cognoscendi...
  7. I am starting to play around with the combination of Breakaway and PLA. First tests are encouraging: a million times less problematic than PVA! However, I was wondering how to best deploy the Breakaway. Do forum members advise to use Breakaway for all support structures, or only for the interfaces to the model? Or does this depend on the characteristics of the model? (and if so, which ones?). Many thanks for any advice that you might have!
  8. As will become painfully obvious, I am a total novice, and I am not an engineer (I am a physician, which is probably the most imprecise profession in the universe). Now I am trying to design a "latch" which is supposed to keep two components together. Dimensions are in mm. I am using the AA0.8 print core (with transparent PLA) which is nice and fast, but admittedly it may be too imprecise. What kind of tolerances and play should I realistically implement in order to get the parts to firmly interlock while keeping the play to a minimum?
  9. Thank you! How do these compare to Hytrel, for which Ultimaker has just published a material profile? http://www.dupont.com/content/dam/dupont/products-and-services/plastics-polymers-and-resins/plastics-polymers-and-resins-landing/documents/Hytrel_3D4100FL_NC010.pdf I knew nothing about the Shore scale of hardness, but according to this synopsis: https://www.artmolds.com/shore-hardness I am afraid that Shore 60D may still be too hard to work well in a waterproof joint.
  10. I need to join parts in a way that is moisture-tight. Not necessarily immersion-proof, but reasonably tight. Is there any way to print some kind of soft, rubber-like materials that would serve this purpose? I have an Ultimaker S5.
  11. Once printed, the Ultimaker "Transparent PLA" filament is anything but transparent! Does anybody know of any material that is printable with an Ultimaker S5 and retains full (or almost full) transparency after printing? I'd be enormously grateful for any advice!
  12. Quick question. Under which circumstances does it make sense to use the 0.8mm BB core with "natural PVA"? And is it advisable to print PLA with AA 0.4mm on extruder #1 and PVA with BB 0.8 with PLA in the same print? Sorry for the naive questions - I am totally new to all this.
  13. One year later, are there any plans to implement email notification?
  14. Dry as in 30% relative humidity? If so, that may be a tough one... Also, somebody told me that one can regenerate PVA by dehydrating it somehow - but I do not remember how. Maybe oven at 40°C or something?
  15. ahhh, great, I will try that, thanks. Since we are at it, what is your opinion about the awfully ragged undersurfaces that I got (see my pics)?
  16. Also, Matt, I am sorry but I do not understand your sentence "If I use extruder 1 with build material support". Do you mean that you use only one extruder and you alternate PLA and PVA? This must be horribly boring, if you have to unload and load different filaments a dozen times...
  17. indeed, no support PVA was printed. However, I am totally new to 3D printing and I thought that I might have made some mistake. I assume that the ragged undersurfaces indicate the absence of much-needed support, right? See:
  18. Here is my first test print. The good news is that the ultimaker did make it to the end of the print (17 hours!). The bad news is that all the lower surfaces (facing towards the center of the earth) are somehow jagged and fibery. I am a total noob, so I assume that I did something stupid that can be immediately corrected with a trivial setting. I note that no support material was used - although I had expected it to be utilized. The test STL file is here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3188096 and I attach some pics of the print. Any advice would be very gratefully appreciated!
  19. I have followed the advice of MattCSCSCS and pulled the ethernet plug just before starting the print. Lo and behold, no more error messages! (I also switched off the flow control for good measure). I didn't really want to believe that this error could have anything to do with the ethernet connection, but here we are. Dear Ultimaker team, this seems like something that you should look into. Lest you may get a lot of warranty returns...
  20. Is there any update from the Ultimaker Team? I have set up my S5 today, and it is throwing this error all the time. What is really bad, is that it does not even specify whether it is the extruder #1 or #2 that is raising the exception. The log files are infuriatingly useless, they contain a million irrelevant lines but nothing that would help debugging the issue. Lastly, the "notification" is quite useless as well. The only notification I am getting is when the print starts (thank you very much, I started it myself), but when a pause occurs, no notification is sent. I m
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