Curven

I know I a getting an old post up again but I am trying tu fit this modification on my old Ultimaker original with a 32 bit board, custom heated bed and Marlin 2.0... I think some things have changed, I can't find the Prepare menu for example... Did somebody allready try this in marlin 2.0? (I am very bad at code... but I try to learn and understand) Thanks a lot!

ça peut aussi être lié a la durée d’impression des couches, lorsque l'imprimante passe du remplissage au couches supérieurs elle met plus de temps a faire la couche et le plastique de l'autre partie a plus la même durée de stabilisation thermique entre deux couches. (Ce n'est qu'un hypothèse, mais j'ai déjà souvent vu ce genre d’artefact L'explication du sens de la tête me parait tout a fait plausible aussi, et il y a surement aussi un petit peu de jeu dans la mécanique d'une imprimante 3d, même si ça n'est pas forcément facile a percevoir... Je pense tout comme Nano-nc que cela fait parties des limites de cette technologie, difficile de le compenser d'une manière ou d'une autre.

Ich habbe zwei Ultimaker Original und wollte auf heizbett upgrade machen. habe es mit den grünen board probiert und nach ein bischen arbeit un information suche habe ich mich entschieden af ein SKR 1.3 board umzubauen. Meine Marlin configuration ist noch nicht ganz ok (motor richtung, endstops usw...) aber dass heizbett funktionniert! Ich brauche fur eine meanwell 24V speisung anstat die alte 19V speisung.

Oh sorry I missed that line... So I'm out of my limited knowledge... to me it seems like your main board is dead but maybe there is a way to recover it... Ultimaker mainboards are quite expensive so I went for an other solution... On my old UMO I am changing the manboard to a SKR v1.3 (the 1.4 is out now). But it requires quite a bit of work to get the connectors to match, and I need to configure my own marlin 2.0.x. It is definitively no easy and fast solution.

It could be related to that, some type of memories get corrupted if they aren't powered during many years... You can try to "build" your firmware on this website: https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/ I have seen links to this page on this forum before and did use it, it is a good firmware, very close to the original one.

Well there is some hope that in some future this feature will become usable: Actually most of our 3D printers are "only" 2.5D. They make their moves on a flat surface, then move up again and make a layer and so on... Real 3D would be simultaneous move of the Z axis while X and Y is printing. But this is far more complex than 2.5D... (Colisions, calculation and so on...). I never tried this kind of printing and won't do so before this has become more easy to use.

Sur l'ultimaker 3 que j'ai au travail nous avons utilisé des filaments de PLA de colorfabb pendant un certain temps et il a toujours été possible de spécifier manuellement quel matériaux était engagé. Une faiblesse connue de la détection de matériaux est si l'on change / charge deux bobines a la fois, il y a un seul détecteur et il ne peut pas différencier quelle bobine est sur quelle position. C'est pourquoi il faut impérativement charger une matière et laisser l'imprimante la détecter et enregistrer l'information et seulement après cela engager la deuxième bobine sur le support. Pour ma part je n'ai jamais connu de problème de détection en appliquant scrupuleusement la procédure ci dessus. Mais il n'est pas exclu que j'aie eu de la chance...

Was your printer working before you tried to update the firmware? Long term storage can cause some memories and other electronics component to get corrupted, so it could be that this default is not related to your attempt to update the firmware.

I know I'm a bit off topic, but I love your print head Is the design available online? I am modding an old UMO to bring it a little bit nearer to today's standards (SKR 1.3 board, switche X and Y rods to match the UM2 style, custom heated bed and so on...)

Hi it is possible, I am slowly working on passing my old Ultimaker original to a SKR 1.3 with TMC 2130 for X and Y and TMC 2208 for Z and E axis. Plus a custom heated bed, but my knowledge and time aren't as big as it would need to make it in reasonable time... It isn't finished yet but as far as I know it should work... But you will have ton configure a custom firmware, which I find cool because the firmware of the UMO is very old and a lot of new features and optimizations have been done to Marlin since then. One thing I am not sure with the ultimaker 2 is if the LCD screen will work on a SKR 1.X. On My old ultimaker I am as well upgrading the LCD to a full graphic controller. I think the main reason why there are less people doing these kind of stuff is because it takes time and knowledge that not every one has (and learning it, takes more time!). And many people are happy with their Ultimaker the way it works now. EDIT: Actually I have read somewhere on this forum that this mod reduces quite a bit the noise of the printer: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/dampening-feets-for-ultimaker-2-3 It can help you and is less complicated to do.

Hi if you really need tu print such long pieces I see two options. 1) Split your design, print it in smaller pieces and the assemble it (with glue or make a dovetail in the design or whatever). It takes time, may be less sturdy than if printed in one piece but will make it possible on your actual printer. 2) Buy a printer like the BlackBelt. (There might be other brands out there but I am not aware of them) https://blackbelt-3d.com/printers

Thanks for this reply! I'll try it when I will be back at work! edit: Tried it right now and it worked, thanks!

Hi everyone, We use Ultimaker's at my work and today I wanted to upgrade Cura from 4.4.1 to 4.6.1. Unfortunately after having reinstalled Cura 4.4.1 and installed 4.6.1 it won't start, I get this error message: I tried to reinstall Cura with no effect. I also moved my old Cura 4.4.1 folder (wich I suppose contains my config files) with no effect. I am not at all comfortable with these kind of erreor message and don't understand what it is trying to tell me... Can anyone help me?

Hi! You can use an ultimaker 2 printhead on an UMO but you have to change the sliding blocks, because the two axes that go through the printhead are inverted. I made an upgrade were I put an E3D V6 on my UMO and used this design. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/beyond-umo-um2-slideblocks-by-gudo-neotko-gt2-open-belt As far as I know some people did put an UM2+ upgrade on an UMO. And I you have an UMO without heated bed it is an idea to buy one, but I am not sure that the UM2 heated bed is compatible with UMO. I am making a custom Heated Bed. with parts I buyed on AliExpress

Salut, De mon expérience ces "fils violets" sont les déplacements a "vide" de ta buse. En théorie ta tête d'impression se déplace suivant ce lignes sans extruder de plastique. En pratique le plastique fondu est liquide et est attiré par la gravité (et peut-être par d'autres phénomènes aussi) donc il y a un petit peu de plastique qui suinte lors de ces déplacements. Tu peux essayer de réduire ce problème en augmentant un petit peu ta distance de rétraction dans les paramètres de Cura. Tu peux aussi essayer d'augmenter la vitesse de rétraction. Par contre je ne peux pas te donner des valeurs, cela dépends de ton imprimante et du filament utilisé, certains filaments font beaucoup de petits fils, d'autres très peu. Le plus simple est de faire quelques essais. Ce phénomène s'appelle du stringing en anglais. Si tu cherche ce mot sur youmagine ou thingiverse tu devrais trouver des pièces concues pour tester cela.

I never tried it but it's spec's are wonderfull for a 3D printer! Unfortunatlly a little to pricy for my actual budget so I went for an bigtreetech SKR 1.3. Didn't finish installing it yet... But I am very interested in your work, I have to UMO without heated bed (also working on a DIY HB kit) so any information on UMO modding is interesting!

Je ne connais pas ta machine en particulier mais je travaille sur des imprimantes qui ont une base Marlin. Normalement tu as une option pour niveler ton plateau, d'abord tu fais un nivellement approximatif a environ 1mm du verre puis une deuxième passe avec la feuille de papier entre la buse et les plateau. Sur l'ultimaker 2 que j'ai sous la main c'est dans "maintenance -> bed leveling" Donc si tu rajoute ou change de verre, tu refais cette procédure et l'imprimante devrait du coup avoir en mémoire la hauteur de ton plateau.

There are some challenges yes, but part of this logical stuff can be solved by the user, for example with an option in Cura "Automatically swap material". If you activate this option it is up to you to check wich materials are loaded in your printer and if they are compatible / meet your personal requirements (quantity, color, etc...) Yes there is a material station to do that, but it is very expensive and not everyone can afford it, and It works only for the S5. S3 users dont'have these options.

Somethimes filament advertised as 3mm is in fact 2.85mm. Send an e-mail to the manufacturer or the reseller to ask them what diameter this filament really is.

As far as I know unfortunately not... I have allready seen a post about this but it seem's not to be in ultimakers idea rigth now. This would be great as it would act like a mini material station. For the people who don't have budget for a S5 Pro or allready do have a S3 (with some options a UM3 would be doable) it could be a nice feature. As a workaround you could split your design in two halves and join them like you would do for a multicolor print. But this solution is far less convinient as the one you sugest. Edit: here is the other topic speaking aboit this feature:

Je suis content que tu aie pu résoudre tes problèmes! Merci d'avoir partagé cette bonne nouvelle avec nous. Bien du plaisir dans tes impression!

Sorry didn't get back until today and now it works fine. Maybe the problem was on my side... ?

@SandervG It seems like the Ultimaker.com website is down... tried to load "ultimaker.com" and "ultimaker.com/software" both returne a "Server error" (Not sure If you are the right person to adress that, but you will surely give the information to someone else if needed) Edit: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19484-stopped-temp-sensor works for me...

Actually what you show is the mainboard of the ultimaker Original (non +) It works on 19V an is not suitable for a heated bed. You Can put 2208 stepper drivers on it. I upgraded on to work with 24V but never tried it with a heated bed, went to Bigtreetech SKR 1.3 and will configure marlin 2.X to benefit from all the new stuff and 32 bit board.

And I found the last post were this problem was related: So this brings us effectively to at least 4 people who have reported this problem ont the forum. The first in november 19, second in january 20 and now two in february 20. I woudn't be suprised that the number of reports massively increase in the next few month as the number of users increase. (and probably some user will report this only after it has occured 2-3 times). I must say this problem, + Wifi problem + camera stream problem and all sort of other bugs reported here gives me very less confidence in the UM S5 (with or without Pro bundle). Hope this will get fixed in the next few months as I a trying to expand the use of 3D printing in our company or I won't be confident enough to recommend the S5 Pro alltough it has really great features on the datasheet...