Curven

If you want to do this in a "better" way you would have to splice the parts of filament together or use a Palette (I think it's only for 1.75mm filament). Maybe the material station could do the job too. Until now I didn't manage to find an easy and low cost way to do that... Or alternatively you print it in dual print, but this means that you have to prepare a STL file for dual extrusion, and you will only have 2 colors. An other alternative is to find a multicolor filament spool for example: https://www.dasfilament.de/filament-spulen/pla-2-85-mm/103/pla-filament-2-85mm-thermo-rot?c=12

Salut, Pour la température d'impression ce n'est pas tout a fait aussi simple que cela... Il faut imprimer aussi froid que possible pour une bonne qualité d'impression (principalement pour les "overhangs" ou porte-à-faux). Mais si tu imprime trop froid tu auras une moins bonne adhésion entre les couches. (Si tu fais que des modèles esthétiques l'adhésion est pas hyper importante) Donc il faut trouver la température la plus haute possible a laquelle tout s'imprime bien d'un point de vue esthétique et dimensionnel. Pour cela il peut-être bon de faire des impression de test du style de : https://www.youmagine.com/designs/quick-temperature-fillament-test Le modèle se répète et a chaque étage la température est modifiée (je ne sais pas comment générer le Gcode mais tu peux peut-être utiliser celui qui est fourni) Ces températures peuvent changer pour une même matière d'un fournisseur a l'autre Pour ce qui est de l'augmentation de la température et fonction de la vitesse d'impression: Plus tu imprimes vite moins ton filament passe de temps dans la zone chaude du hotend. Pour de légère augmentation de vitesse ça ne change en général pas grand chose, mais si tu imprime vraiment très vite (a voir si ton imprimante en est physiquement capable et si la qualité obtenue est encore en adéquation avec tes attentes / besoins), alors le plastic n'a plus le temps de fondre complètement qu'il est déjà poussé dehors, cela va provoquer des défauts d’impression voir même un bouchage de la buse et donc une abrasion du filament au niveau du feeder. Si tu augmente le flow rate tu ne fais "que" aggraver le problème vu que tu augmente encore le débit de matière qui doit passer par la zone de fusion. Comme presque toujours en impression 3D tout est question d'équilibre dans les réglages, ni trop, ni trop peu. Et les limites varient en fonction de tes besoins (qualité des détails, propriétés mécaniques) et de ton imprimante (inertie des parties en mouvement, puissance de la cartouche chauffante, force du feeder etc...)

Pour ma part je n'ai eu aucun souci avec Cura 4.4 que ce soit au travail ou a la maison... Au travail j'ai un laptop Avec un processeur Intel I7-5500 et du Intel HD graphics 5500. donc rien de folichon niveau graphique mais tout fonctionne normalement. A la maison j'ai un vieil AMD Phenom X4 970 avec une carte graphique radeaon 78?? (70 je crois) Et pas de soucis non plus. Avez vous mis a jours tous les pilotes de votre machine? Peut-être que ça pourrait aider... Sinon il peut effectivement s'agir d'une incompatibilité avec certains hardware.

This looks like your motor is skipping steps. Often this is related to stepper driver getting too hot. If you can try to cool them more. With a passive heatsink if there isn't allready one mounted or alternatively wit a higher airflow. You can also check the voltage rating of your stepper driver. The goal is to have high enough to give the tork your motor needs (with some margin) but as low as possible to prevent stepper motor from overheating. (there are plenty of tutorial for this on youtube) The problem could also occur if something (printed part or foreign object) blocks the movements of your printer. For the print not beeing finished, is ther any kind of grinding on the filament?

Hello, I have 2 UMO but never had this problem, but there are some points that come in mind when I read your situation. Did you check all the wirings? Maybe the screws that hols the heater cartridge wires to the mainboard are a little bit loose? Or the wire got some oxydation. These to points could create some resistance and increase the power consumption, maybee just a little bit above of what the powerblock can give. Or your powerblock is getting old and can't deliver enough power anymore. I don't think the problem comes from the sw, it seem's really HW related, but I am not the biggest specialist in this...

I use Originale titan extruder and V6 hotend on my UMO, but it is 2.85 mm. The one thing wich is tricky is the retraction settings, it should be set to 2.5mm or lower, otherwise you have a risk of molten PLA sticking to the heatbreak. And sometimes I hear like a tick from the extruder, i lowered le Esteps/mm a bit (from 418 steps /mm to 410) and now it is almost gone and I did'nt notice any underextrusion, exept on parts with many retracts... So I am still tuning it. On My second UMO I am prepering an upgrade to bring the spool over the printer and shorten the Bowden to haw less friction and elasticity. Hope this will help- Your hotend holder and part cooler look pretty good, did you take it on internet or is it costum made? Would you mind to share the files with me?

I have experienced the same kind of problem on our UM3 and for us the problem came form the filament poping out of the guiding bearing in the feeder and then grinding the feeder arm untill the feeder couldn't push the filament enough any more... What we had has since been shown on the forum here: Did you see any kind of grinding on your filament?

As far as I know, yes.

This happens to me also with PLA and ABS prints on other printers. When your nozzle travels arroud some little amount of material can flow out and create this blobs. As far As I know it is nothing that affects the print qualité or the physical properties of your print.

I only am experienced with UMO, UM2 and UM3 and thoose machines don't benefit from the latest improvement from Cura 4.4: Intent profiles. You should have premade profiles for your S5 printer and if you choose the engeeniring one it should reduce the over extrusion at corners. Some people didn't wait Cura 4.4 to make their own profile, as I have read on some threads that for the UM S5, you should equalize all your speeds around 30 - 40 mm/s (exept maybee first layer wich can be slower). You should also put all jerks setting to the same value wich if I remember well is around 25 mm/s.

Hello I actually never printed with a raft. But as far as I know it is normal that there is a gap between the raft and the part, without it it would be impossible to remove the raft of the part... I think I have read somewhere that this gap can be configured in Cura, but as I never used it I can not give an advice on the optimal gap. (between support and print the gap is 1 layer) I looked in Cura and found that: By default the gap is 0.3mm. I would try reducing it to 0.2 and then adjust if necessary,

Pour l'ASA je n'en ai jamais imprimé pour l'instant, au travail nous nous concentrons sur le PLA et l'ABS (pour l'instant tout du moins). A la maison je suis en train de réparer / modifier deux Ultimaker Original. N'ayant pas (encore) de lit chauffant je reste sur du PLA. Quand j'aurai un lit chauffant et un local que je peux dédier a cela je testerai de l'ASA. Pour l'instant les imprimantes sont dans notre bureau / chambre d'amis, je préfère donc rester sur des plastiques "inoffensifs" (ou au moins peu toxiques). Vu le message d'erreur affiché par ton imprimante et vu ce que dit le site indiqué il s'agit d'une erreur de ta sonde de température PT100, vérifie si elle est bien enfichée dans la carte mère et sinon il faut envisager de la changer, ça arrive de temps a autres... Achète bien la sonde pour UM2+, les UM2 avaient une sonde un peu moins précise, mais les deux sont compatibles.

Je me permet de rajouter mon petit grain de sel... Au travail nous avons une UM2 (presque +) et une UM3. Pour les impressions a une seule matière je préfère la UM2, c'est vraiment une très bonne machine! Je trouve juste dommage que Ultimaker ne fasse plus aucune mise a jour ou kit d'upgrade pour cette machine, il y aurait pas mal de potentiel. Mais c'est aussi compréhensible que l'entreprise se concentre sur les plus nouveaux produits qui sont plus rentables... D'ailleurs la communauté propose pas mal d'idées d'upgrade DIY. Pour ce qui est de l'UM3. La double extrusion est vraiment top, matériel de support soluble a l'eau, breakaway, bicolore... Mais si j'ai pas besoin de deux buse, je privilégie la UM2. Par contre je pense que dans le cadre d'une utilisation partagée par plusieurs personnes (fablab, coworking ou bureau d'ingénieur, architectes etc...) qui ne sont pas forcément toute très a l'aise avec cette technologie elle est un peu plus facile et fiable. La possibilité de la connecter au réseau et de lancer des impressions a distance est intéressante, la UM2 ne fait cela pas a moins de la brancher sur un raspberry avec octoprint. D'après ce que tu dis tu pense acheter plus de 10 imprimantes c'est bien ça? Sera tu seul a les utiliser? Je pense que pour exploiter une "ferme d'imprimantes 3d" un serveur d'impression (Cura connect, octo print, astroprint... ) serait un plus. Cela permet de lancer des impressions a distance, de recevoir des notifications que l'impression est terminée etc... Désolé pour la tartine, j'ai pourtant essayé de rester concis...

It would indeed be a great feature for people who dont wan't or can afford a Multi Material station. Or thoose who just occasionnaly need this feature. But nallath is right, it's more a firmware feature than a Cura feature

Seem's like your image somehow has a problem... For wiring the fans I allready tried both solutions on my UMO (non +, so not the same board). And both do work. But I don't know if one is better than the other. I don't think any of the option could damage your board as a fan use only a very little current intensity. But it is may be wiser to wait for a second opinion.

Ca marche aussi avec les résidus de plastic carbonisés? En tous les cas c'est bon a savoir, merci du conseil

Hello I'm not sure I did understatd well but if you "just" want to detect the runout of filament you could use a switch (same as the enstops) in this type of casing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2845176 While there is filament the switch is in one state, and when filament runs out the switch triggers and pauses the printer. As far as I know it is "easy" to do one UMO (+) and UM2 (+). But for UM 3 I don't know... Maybe there are some spare pins on the mainboard, but it need's a little bit of firmware modification wich is, as far as I know, not possible on UM3. (But my knowledge is very small)

It sure is alot of work but in my opinion : 1) Printers that are still sold should, in my opinion, benefit of all upgrades possible (both printer's and Cura's side) . Unfortunatly it is not so... That is Ultimaker's strategic choice and I accept it. 2) UM 3, UM S5, UM S3 are pretty similar no? Would'nt it be possible to "easily" adapt a profile from one of thes printer to the oders? (For UMO (+) and UM 2 (+) I understand it would be a lot more work)

Hello I never did it my self but as far as I know there is a possibility yes. I always heard you have to change the extruder, the bowden and the heater block to run 1.75 mm. But I found this tutorial on internet and it seem's they use 1.75mm filament without hardware modifications... https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/downloads/pdf/using-1-dot-75mm-filament-on-ultimaker-2.pdf But I would prefer stay at 2.85 or make the modifications to run 1.75 with hardware adapted to it. There are some informations in this tread aswell: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/14829-175-filament-with-ultimaker-2/

Ultimaker 3d printers (Print cores, extruder and bowden tube) are designed tu use 2.85 mm so I'm not sure it will give you good results even if you get a way to make it in Cura. You would need to change these 3 components to get it work, possibily change things in the printer settings and as far as I know there are not 1.75mm princores on the market. I think like Dim3nsioneer, it is easier and less expensive to find a 2.85mm filament spool.

Hello, I would see 2 possibilities for what you want to achieve: The first is more like a workaroud: Turn your piece 45°, layers will be parallel and perpendicular to the walls (as far as I know, infill as well) Or you can get a parameter to configure print orientation of your top and bottom layers in Cura: Sorry It's in french but in the second menu "Coque" (should be something like "shell") You can find a parameter to change direction of the lines. Hope this can help a little.

Did you allready check the connections of everything on both mainboard side and heated bed / cartridge side? If the contact is a little bit loose it can be ok at ambiant temperature but cause problems when heated up.

I think an important thing to know to be able to maybe help you would be to know wich printer you have and wich firmware it is running. Are every parts of your printer originale parts or have you made repaires / mods on it?

When you use the second printcore the printer will lower it when used and lift it again when unused, so there is no collision between the nozzles and the print.

I see 3 reasons for a long slicing time: 1. Complex forms. If you can, try to simplify the form of your part, but it is probably not possible 2. Complex mesh. If your mesh is very big ( > 10 MB) the it will be longer to slice, the bigger it is the longer it will get. So try to make a mesh with less precision. In general I don't see the point having a STL with to much details, the precision of your pinter is the limit. 3. complex infill. Gyroid infill takes longer to calculate as linear infill, if you can reduce infill rate and go for a simple pattern (lines, or squares) If for some reason you can't simplify the geometry and can't make a smaller STL file then yous don't have much possibilities, either you get a more powerfull computer ($$). Or you launch slicing in the evening and hope it is done the next morning. I never tried other slicers than Cura, maybe this could help... Sorry I can't help more.