Framar

Hello, I'm selling my Ultimaker S3. I own this machine since May 2022 and barely print with it. The printer comes with 2x AA040, 1xBB040 print cores. The print is in mint condition. 3,850CAD $ Thanks!

I just received my new UMS3 to be use at home. The printer is installed in my office where I also run a Prusa I3MK3. Having the printers side by side I immediately being hit by the nose level produced by the S3. I want to modify the printer so it is quieter. I think one easy improvement would be to replace the axial print core fan with a quieter model. Is anyone done this? What fan model can be used ? Thanks!

I've printed many ASA brands; and they are not all equal. I cannot tell for Polymaker but the best I've got was from FormFutura.

Try to print witht the air manger opened, it should improves cooling efficiency. The Benchy looks horrible in the overhang areas...

When printing PP, I put packaging tape on the bed surface. The tape will fuse with the molten filament.

J'ai une S5, Honnêtement pas impressionné pour le prix. Erreur de communication avec la tête d'impression (ER34) récurrentes, imprécisions entre les axes X et Y qui ne peuvent pas être ajustées...

J'imprime souvent ce filament. Personnellement j'ai eu de meilleur résultat en utilisant les valeurs générique de Cura pour l'ABS qu'avec le profile de Formfutura.

Hi Jack, I'm too interested in conformal cooling for injection molds. I think you can print BASF ultrafuse 17-4 steel with a UMS5 paired with the CC print cores. Then you need to find a place to post process the "green" parts. Take a look at matterhackers they have some information on that toppic

Hello Ricciojm, I've printed PP on a UMS5 with succes. The challenge is to make the PP stick to the glass. I usually spray a thin coat of 3DLac an use a brim. Also PP has a high shrink factor. Usually I have to scale the part 1% larger in X and Y.

What printer are you using?

Tu peux désactiver le "flow sensor" sur l'imprimante (au risque de manquer de filament)

Navin2020, The printer will detect the end of filament before it goes completely out of the extruder. Then a message will appears on the screen saying that you ran out of filament. From there you just have to "change" filament and follow the steps on the screen. The first the printer will do is to unload the remaining filament, then you put the new roll and load the filament and resume the print.

@Brettlee22, there is no one printer fits all. What is your budget? What materials do you need to print? What kind of prints (figurine, mechanical parts, etc?).

You can probably order the replacement glass at your resseller store. As for the metal clips chipping the glass, that is the first time I hear that. Is the chipping happened when installing or removing the glass???

I can slice the STL in Cura 3.6. Models look fine. So I would suggest focusing on ehat have changed since the last time it worked (OS updates, drivers, etc.)

Has Mari said, I suggest you replace the tubes and instead of chaging the filament diameter in cura you can adjust the flow percentage instead; this will give you more control and a more accurate print.

Well, this looks like what we get with our S5 when using a 0,8mm nozzle...

You should contact your reseller. Might needed a repair (stepper motor bearing ???)

It happened to one of my print during the last weekend. When I came to work on Monday the printer was stopped showing a comunication error message on the screen. I shutoff the printer and reboot it. Then I remove the USB stick from the printer and plugged it to my laptop so I can save a new print project. It's then I realized that there was 500+ log files saved to the USB stick. I still don't know if it has been created when the communication error happened or when I reboot the printer... ?

It happened to me a few times. I had some print that curled up while printing/cooling (it was ABS if I remeber correctly). Every time the printer printed a new layer it had to psh against the printed parts untile the glass moved from side to side. What I did was to improve bed adhesion so the printed parts do not curled up anymore and I slightly make the metal clip holding the print glass so they grip the glass more firmly. Since then no more of this issue.

How Cura sliced it ? Same as print results ?

Never ran any file as big as yours. If you have the CAD file you can try different saving or exporting settings that would reduce the file size (by using a more coarse STL setting).

If you can post the CAD model in STEP, Acis or Parasolid file format I can probably fix the model in my CAD software.

well, you'll find the RAFT option under Build Plate Adhesion. Then you can change the settings that match your needs. I don't understand why you want the raft to be a few mm thick though. One layer should be enought.

Do you really need a prime tower? With the S5 prints are better without it.