Hudson
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Posts posted by Hudson
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On 6/7/2019 at 3:44 PM, ScanHD said:
i have the Accante one. does the job!
its a little tricky to assemble but once its made it looks great and its completely transparent which makes monitoring prints a breeze. there's a door in the front/top so you can maintain the head without taking it off.
I agree. The Accante cover works very well. The filtered hot air also remains in the build chamber, reducing the chance of a draft. If you have a cover and it vents to the exterior the air will be replaced by cold outside air.
The door is also a nice feature. I have another cover that is not clear and does not have the door, and it is a pain.
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Hi Nick,
I have printed the PA6 XStrand on the S5 with glue, Magigoo, and painters tape. I use the XStrand for the support material, usually a 25% zigzag.
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You could use and unfilled Nylon for the infill and carbon or glass reinforced Nylon for the shell. As long as you use the same type of Nylon (PA6, PA12, etc.) you shouldn't have to worry about material compatibility. Then you're only limited to one hardened nozzle and feeder.
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15 hours ago, chrisp said:
Where are you buying it from? I would love to try it. BTW, I'm currently printing another part with Hytrel and trying supports using the same material. Instead of using Cura, I drew them in with a 0.2mm gap from part. So far everything is looking nice.
I am located in Germany, and we are sourcing it form 3DJake and I think they are getting it from FormFutura.
I'm curious how your current print turns out, please keep us posted.
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10 hours ago, chrisp said:
Thanks for the advice Hudson. I was able to modify the extruder on my UM2 (Filling all possible gaps near knurled fitting) and replaced the bowden with some PTFE tubing I had on a roll. I successfully printed my design using Dupont Hytrel 3078 and the print looks absolutely perfect. It prints better than Ninja Flex. The total print time was 19 hours. Unfortunately I can't show the print due to my patent process.
I forgot to show the print settings: Hytrel
Quality = 0.1mm
Speed = 30mm/s
Temp = 240c
No Retraction
Fan Speed = 20%
Infill = 100%
Heated Bed = 40c (I use a plate similar to PEI)
Brim & No Support
The part is about 66mm tall and 62mm wide
Glad to hear you were able to get it to print with what you had!
The next material I'm going to print is Arnitel ID 2060 HT from DSM. If you need a higher temperature rating or want your prototype in black you should check it out.
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19 hours ago, geetee said:
I was thinking about getting these tubes, I read that one end of the supplied tubes is a bit different for the feeder, did you have any issue fitting? cheers
On the Ultimaker Bowden tubes one end has a taper on the inside to help advance the filament from the feeder into the tube. I just used my pocket knife to knock down the sharp edge on the Capricorn tubes. I have change materials at least 10 times so far and have not had any issues.
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The only thing different on my S5 are the bowden tubes. I switched them to the Capricorn XS Ultra Low Friction PTFE tubes. I switched them as soon as I got the printer so I can not compare them to the stock bowden tubes.
I made sure to dry the material as suggested before using it, and I kept the filament in a polybox while it was printing.
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I used the Hytrel settings from the marketplace (except for the increased support density) and had no issues printing. The individual layer patterns in my print were simple and continuous, so I did not experience any stinging issues. For bed adhesion I used blue painters tape, it held well for the print and released with a squeeze of the printed part. The print was 39 hours.
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Initially I tried Hytrel and PLA, based on a supplier recommendation. The print using the PLA as support did not turn out well, based on model geometry and the way Cura built the support. The best solution I found for my model was to use Hytrel as the support and to increase the support density form 15% to 30%.
If I get some free time on the printer I might go back and try a small sample with PVA.
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I'm having a similar issue, and ran across your post.
Any chance you are using a single extruder for model and support? XYZ and Kman both used a dual extrusion setup.
I am trying to print with Hytrel and Dupont recommends using itself as the support material. I tried to print with the settings from the market place and it was ok but not the best. Looking back to Cura and playing with support settings, it tries printing support in mid air (even with a "support bottom distance" of 0)
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I'm planning on printing with this material next week, or trying to. Does anyone have any experience or tips for printing on an S5? I plan on drying the material and using the PolyBox while printing.
Has anyone tried any other support material? Dupont recommends printing the supports with the same material, just curious if anyone has tried anything else.
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FYI: apparently the PolyBox II (the one that I have) has the lower set of holes in the base, not in the cover. I can see how that would be annoying to have all of the holes in the cover.
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11 minutes ago, Smithy said:
BTW your spacer can also be used to make some additional holes to feed the filament from the bottom and not from the top case. The Polybox has all openings in the top case, so when you lift the case you have to fiddle with the filament. So it is better to feed the filament through a hole in the bottom part, but if you don't want to drill your Polybox you can now drill it in the spacer. Another great use-case.
That's a good idea. I am using the middle hole in the PolyBox base, the large spool walks side to side a little but hasn't gotten hung up on the edge yet. If anyone would like the .STP file let me know.
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Unfortunately I can not take pictures in the office, but I will try to explain it a little better.
I replaced the standard Bowden tubes from the feeders to the print head and had a small piece left over (10-12 inches).
I knew I wanted to protect the filament between the box and the feeder and wanted to use a tube to help it feed better/ properly. At first I thought about making a stop to keep the tube from being fed or ground up in the feeder, but when I looked at the pictures of the feeder from the maintenance page, there is already a tapered section in the feeder before the gears, so I just placed the leftover piece of tube between the box and the feeder and when the feeder pulls its tight and smooth.
I just changed materials and checked the end of the Bowden tube going into the bottom of the feeder and it shows no signs of wear.
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Recently I started using an Ultimaker S5 at work. The main printing material will is Corning's XStrand GF30-PA6. The PO was written before the CC core was available, so I ordered the 3D Solex hardcore print core and Everlast nozzle kit. Because I knew the filament could be challenging I also ordered Capricorn bowden tubes, a top enclosure, and a PolyBox. Of course I ordered the large reel of XStrand material, only to find out the it does not quite fit in the PolyBox...
The spool fits front to back, but the height of the box was limiting. So I created a spacer and printed it with the sample Tough PLA Ultimaker material that came with the printer.
I have the PolyBox sitting to the left of the S5 with a short piece of Capricorn tube between the PolyBox and the feeder. Over 40 hours of printing and no problems with feeding the filament, even when running a 12mm retraction.
The filament was dried at 80°C for 5 hours and placed into the PolyBox where it has held 10% humidity for 3 weeks.
Attached is the .STL for the spacer if anyone would like to use the PolyBox with a larger spool
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Stuck in cooldown (latest S5 frimware)
in Firmware
Posted
With the new firmware I found that even if you select to skip cooldown, you can not "confirm removal" of the print and move on with life untill the bed has cooled down to 59 deg. This is a pain if you are printing with CPE and the bed temp is 110deg and the you about the print on the first layer and want to restart the print right away. With previous firmware versions it was faster to powerdown and power up the printer to retain bed heat, but with the new firmware this too is not possible. When the printer restarts, it still wants to cooldown.