Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

sibianul

Member
  • Content Count

    16
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

Personal Information

  • Field of Work
    (Product) design
  • Country
    RO
  • 3D printer
    Other

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. sibianul

    Help me understand MAXIMUM RESOLUTION setting

    Thank you for confirming that something is weird, but theoretically, the maximum resolution will be the minimum distance between 2 points, in the gcode x / y coordonates?
  2. sibianul

    3D prints very difficult to pull out

    Easier than the hairspray πŸ™‚ ? I'm just using the hairspray for about 2 - 3 seconds maximum and spray from back to the front, I have all my leadscrews greased. I also worried about hairspray sticking to leadscrews but if it's sprayed in the opposite direction, there can't be any problem. I mostly print PETG, but yesterday I switched to PLA to finished the opened rolls πŸ™‚
  3. sibianul

    3D prints very difficult to pull out

    Why not try hair spray instead, I just started up and print PLA and PETG with cold bed, without any problem regarding print adhesion to the glass surface! And also is very easy to get the part from the glass with a sharp knife. Since I tried hairspray, I permanently have one near the printer, also a Glass Cleaner bottle and a roll of paper towels, all those 3 things permanently near the printer , like the filament rolls, those are mandatory for me πŸ™‚
  4. Maybe the Combing is enabled, and this causes to move along the already printed parts. Just try to disable to see if it changes the TRAVEL paths. https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52507-travel
  5. I use a 0.6mm nozzle, and a 0.58mm line width, with those settings cura is already overlapping the walls from layer~85 and up, I didn't understood why it didn't also on the lower layers too. I also tried to set the number of walls to a higher number, but in that area it did not made more than 4. The only option that completely removed the yellow small segments was FILL GAPS BETWEEN WALLS , I unchecked it, and that space remained empty. But with smartavionics version of cura, it did a very good job, it filled that space with cilindrical lines, exactly like the walls.
  6. With your build and SPIRALIZE OUTER CONTOUR active, and layer time set to low values like 0s or 2s (will try to set it back to 10s) it seems the PART COOLING FAN doesn't start up, I just noticed as I'm making some tests to find out why the printer is stuttering when printing fast, round objects. Wil try without spiralize, to see if the problem comes from there or not. UPDATE. It seems the part cooling fan is not starting up anymore, no matter what cura versdion I use. In GCODE I should be looking for M106 to start the part cooling fan and M107 to stop, right ? capac picior scaun v1.4 spiralize 0.1mm resolution - skirt - min layer time 0s.gcode capac picior scaun v1.4 spiralize 0.01mm resolution - skirt - min layer time 2s - initial fan speed 60p.gcode
  7. I can't find any infill pattern named CIRCULAR, but I tried concentric and it didn't change the tiny lines between walls, it only changed the bottom infill, BUT ... I just installed CURA master (Cura-mb-master-win64-20190113.exe) and opened exactly the same .3mf file saved from Cura 3.6.0, and out of the box it did a much better pattern for the yellow wall, with FILL GAPS BETWEEN WALLS option active, with INFILL set to GRID, all exactly as Cura 3.6.0 (left image CURA 3.6.0 / right image Cura master .. weird that there is no version number in Help -> About ) From now on I will primarily use this version, until I will find any bugs, if there are any...
  8. Spiralize makes only a single wall ? I need the internal diameter to be as I modeled it (conical shape)
  9. I found the option FILL GAPS BETWEEN WALLS but why it's not making thinner / overlaped walls to fill that empty space? If you look closely to this gif, from layer 85 and up it overlaps the green walls alot, why the same thing wasn't made in the empty space bellow? Is there other setting I'm missing ?
  10. I tried increasing the number of walls but that didn't work, also tried to set infill to 0% and didn't work either. What actually are those segments ? and why it doesn't make concentric walls as the external and internal ones ? Anyone knows what I have to set to get rid of the small segments between the walls, and print circular GREEN walls instead ? Thank you. capac picior scaun v1.2.stl capac picior scaun.3mf
  11. Hello everyone, this week I made a few more tests regarding MAX resolution setting and I'm curious what does that number mean? because 0.01 is a very small number, increasing that to 0.1mm fixed my stuttering issue, on round objects printed in high speed (I think 100mm/s and up is high speed). 0.1mm is still a very small number, but with this setting all my arc's are made from ~5mm long straight segments, when I first used the MAXIMUM resolution setting I hoped that will be the MINIMUM distance between 2 X - Y points, but what I discovered is far from this. The model I attached was exported from Fusion, to be sure the model is not the problem (I mainly exported my models on MEDIUM setting from Fusion) I manually set the resolution of the model to 0.002mm when exported from Fusion. Than played using Cura MAXIMUM RESOLUTION Setting, a week ago I discovered that if I use 0.1mm resolution I don't have any stuttering issue , but this introduced a new problem, the round model is made from quite long ~5mm straight segments, as you can see in print #1 and #2 Print #3 still has the stuttering issue that affected all other print (4, 5, 6), but because I tried the option to print OUTER WALL FIRST, is not visible on the outside, only on the inside, but the seam on the outside wall was quite ugly on #3, this was printed using 0.01mm MAXIMUM RESOLUTION and outer wall speed of 50mm/s and inner wall speed 100mm/s In this video you can hear the stuttering issue i'm talking about at second 16, this was a different part, but when that stuttering thing happens, the part will look like prints #4 - #5 or #6 above. My printer has a MKS GEN 1.4 controller, I use leadscrews instead of belts and 4Amp steppers (KL17H248), I print over OctoPrint as I hate moving around with the SD card (at high speed the stuttering issue still happens when file is loaded from SD). What I don't know, is if I will buy a 32bit controller like MKS Base 1.3, will that help reduce or get rid of the stuttering issue ? I think the my 8bit controller board is not capable of receiving that many gcode lines / second, it's just my opinion, I really want to hear other opinions too. Also, my current speed settings are 50mm/s on outer walls, 80mm/s on inner walls, I also tried inlay with 100mm/s and 120mm/s .. is this high speed ? What are you guys currently use when printing larger parts like the one I attached, which I think is a great model to be printed fast, if 100mm/s is fast to you too (when I builded this printer, the speed I hoped to be able to use when printing, was 100mm/s, I'm quite close .. but not just there yet πŸ™‚ ) calapod v3 - curve - ultra high 0.002 deviation.stl calapod v3 - medium - test.gcode calapod v3 - ultra high model and 0.01mm resolution - optimize wall order - flow 80p - test.gcode
  12. Thank you guys, later, after work I will install the plugin and check the files, now those values are not shown in Extruder tab. Will post back, after more tests, with those settings tuned up.
  13. But each model is different, it could be a very small model, and setting the point far away on a side, it could lose alot of time only because of those travels. I hoped that when USE TOWER is checked, the nozzle will wait to heat up on the tower , but to my surprise, it does the same thing, it waits on the part, and than travels to the tower, extrudes a layer and than comes back. I also hoped that when Z HOP was enabled , it will go above the part, before moving on any side, but it didn;t, it made the Z HOP when it arrived on the tower, this was weird, it traveled at the same layer height, and when it reached the tower, it did the Z HOP. Maybe COMBING MODE set to ALL was the issue , when traveling on the same distance, I haven't printed yet with COMBING DISABLED. But I will I noticed the printer is changing temperatures set on those values : PRINTING TEMPERATURE .. i set it at 215 deg C INITIAL PRINTING TEMPERATURE ... was automatically set to 205 deg C FINAL PRINTING TEMPERATURE ... was automatically set to 200 deg C so each time the printer has to swap colors, it increases and decreases the temperature to those values, with many seconds of waiting. Do you know if there could be any problem to set them all to 215 deg C? .. hopefully, there will be no wait time to heat up. Is there any problem if I won;t cool down the unused nozzle ? In cura 3.6 I haven't found those settings "ο»Ώheat up speed" and "cool down speed", do you have v4 (Beta)? or a developer edition ? Thank's again for any advices!
  14. Same problem here, 8 months later, there still isn't any official solution to this issue ? Every model I will print I need to define the X and Y location of the extruder? to avoid traveling to much left or right when printing in different location of the bed. Also is there an option to keep the temperature high all the time? is there any problem regarding this when printing PETG and PVA for support ? I noticed the cooldown of the active extruder happens before it finished printing with it, maybe 10 seconds before, why the heating of the next extruder doesn't happen before using it? to avoid waiting so much time. On a small model (a 30x30mm dice) I think the waiting time will double the print time. Here's a video of what I would expect, after printing a layer with Color 1 start printing directly with Color 2, I don;t know why it cools down the other nozzle. Thank you.
  15. Thank you guys, I will try just a little later that plugin, but maybe I didn't made the correct model to test my line width, I tried to make that thin wall model just to see if I can tune anything to have the parts I print, as close to the original model, but none of the real models have thin walls, for example the model bellow was made to fit that zip in it, but the channelcame out a little to tight, The zip is 5.9mm wide, the chanel I modeled was 6.1mm wide, but the chanel that came out after printing the part with 0.6mm nozzle, is 5.5mm wide, as you could see in the photos above also , I have also a small problem on the corners, it seems there is to much material extruded in the corner, maybe this is the issue on that channel that came out not wide enough, I'm actually sure this is the issue. Any help regarding ways to fix this would be helpfull. Also if I have to print some tests, just let me know, I will start printing right away. Bellow I copied a few settings I initially set in Marlin config file, and which I think are related to the corners issue: #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION { 1600, 1600, 100, 10000 } #define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 1600 // X, Y, Z and E acceleration for printing moves #define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 2000 // E acceleration for retracts #define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION 2000 // X, Y, Z acceleration for travel (non printing) moves #define DEFAULT_XJERK 10.0 #define DEFAULT_YJERK 10.0 #define DEFAULT_ZJERK 0.3 #define DEFAULT_EJERK 5.0 //#define S_CURVE_ACCELERATION // this is commented out, will it help to enable it? Test canal fermoar vertical.stl
×

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!