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rayr

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  1. Many thanks that completely makes sense thank you
  2. Hi 2nd post of the day, so thank you in advance of any help Ultimaker 2 + with latest firmware cura 4..6.1 the printer is self is set for PLA wit a default hot end temp of 200 and 60 build plate 2.85mm filament etc pretty standard stuff I normally print with .4mm nozzle but decided to change to .6mm to see what difference i can can achieve. and may be fix so other issues. When cura slices a model using the parameters of generic PLA and .4mm nozzle. it would appear the the corresponding G code keeps / maintains a 200 degree hot end temp when i change the Cura setting to allow for a .6mm nozzle it would appear that cura is overriding the printer default some how and settings the hot end temp to 230. While the PLA i am using seem to cope with this high temp it not right. I am no g code expert but i think i would be expecting a "S" command to set temp and i can't see one in the code see below. Even if i know what i was looking for i don't want to start editing g code. so i am hoping its a Cura issue and can be fixed with a update or moving back to a earlier version
  3. hi there, model is Ultimaker 2 + about 2 years old, about 300 hours of printing just updates firmware but no difference just replaced liner bearings that fit in the head new nozzle printed at different speeds and different temps mainly print with PLA but the same symptoms existed with PETG i have tried various infill patterns the general symptoms are rubbing off the nozzle on infill when the head print head crosses previously printed infill on the same layer height the knock on effect is the infill is not bonding correctly i have googled this and it would seem that this problem does happen occasionally but i could not find any plausible conclusions many thanks in advance Ray
  4. i went from a Makrboot Play to Ultimater 2+ simply because of a reliability perspective. i know it does not have dual extruders or network connectivity (eg using a SD card seems so wrong in this day age). Have to admit i had immense frustration originally with printing on glass and adhesion but now i am convert to the salt method i love the machine. the constancy is great and it works ever time and the print quality is good. It's a machine so i expect thing to break eventually but the parts look readily available. I brought mine new and have no issues paying the money. but it meet my needs and price point at the time. whether its ticks the boxes or everyone else i would not say. it just my opinion
  5. update from my post. I can confirm the salt method works. I don't know if I am following the process exactly but i think so no issues now with adhesion i have to say i was getting disillusioned with the 2+ but love it now. printing with some cheap copper PLA and Wood PLA from amazon 100% success
  6. I have exactly the same problems as your self and several time considered sending the printer back. My first printer was a makrbot play and i never had a problem with adhesion printing on blue printers tape. i upgraded to a UM 2+ and most of the time i can't get the first layer to stick. like people have advised on here i have levelled the bed properly and even checked the flatness etc with a Dial test indicator. frustrated by this i decided to revert back to blue printers tape and turn off the heated bed as soon and the print starts. and now i get adhesion every time. I also changed the filament from Ultimater PLA to some cheap PLA i got from Amazon a while back. I am sure the problem i have is more to do with the glass than the material i am printing. but i get reliable prints now If just printing on glass the best result came from cleaning the glass with hot soapy water (Fairy liquid) add ing alcohol to the equation was a guaranteed failure. these are only my experiences, i would have liked to be a bit more scientific but i did not have time. I think part of my problem was i was expecting a totally flawless experience for 2000 quid. my frustrations is still need to make tweaks here and there.
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