pineirod

I've installed cura 5, did again the connection and now it works

Hi, I have an ultimaker account and a S5 printer. All works fine, I can send jobs online to the printer (connected by lan cable) But with the digital factory it is not possible to connect. It asks for a 6 digits number. I tried different times in the past and it never worked. Now the printer says it is connected to the digital factory, but in the digital factory I have to enter the 6 digits. Attached some pictures What can i do? thanks

I was yesterday there and I haven't seen them But one could find many ultimaker printers in other stands

Hi there, The last two times I printed the quality of the result was not good. It seems like the layers are not sticking well to each other. There are loose "threads" of material. It is also very weak. Easily breakable. I am using PLA from BASF on an Ultimaker S5 In addition the first layers stick a lot on the glass plate. We use Magigoo But this is new, it just started happening. I don't know if there is some setting we changed without realizing. We usually print with the engineering profile thanks regards,

Are there any news on this? I just realised I had a print paused because of material empty (it actually got stuck, this happens a lot) and l lost lots of time now. If I had got a notification I would have solved the problem in the moment cheers,

I managed to remove the filament. First, I drilled a hole of 1,2mm. It doesn't have to be that size, but close Then I put in a small screw and pulled. With the help of a thin fiber I had I checked and the path is now clear I had mounted and calibrated already a new core so I won't put this back, so I don't know if it works properly. In any case, here I leave this info in case it helps somebody cheers,

Hi, I sent a print job with tough PLA. It was working normally. When I went to check the printer the material wasn't coming out the print core 1 (AA 0,4mm) The filament was broken in several parts inside the bowden tube. I remove it Then I heated up the core to 240ºc and push down with a piece of filament. It didn't come out. Also pushing in with a needle. It seems it doesn't melt. It might be stuck in a position where it doesn't get hot. After a lot of work with a small utility knife and managed to cut the filament right above the print core to be able to remove it (is there an easy way to do this?) What can I do? I understood I can't dismount the print core. I might damage irreversibly thanks

great, solved thanks

Hi, I am getting printed a disc in the corner of the S5. It seems like a support. It's not the blob. What is it for? How can i get rid of it? thanks regards,

Hi, I am not sure if I can get the chloroform... I will talk to some chemist in my working place, as far as I heard some time ago it is not easy to get the permission. I'd rather avoid "nasty" chemicals... About the resin print: It is very nice, we have a Form2, but out part is too big, and in the future we plan to make a 1 meter x half a meter part. It won't be easy (or cheap!) thanks

It sounds like a very good option. We will look into that thanks

Hi, Here more news about this project in case somebody is interested. It was printed, glued to an aluminium connector and screwed to an aluminium plate with a flange for measuring the tightness. We used helium to see the leaks in the system. With the probe at the bottom (see it in the picture, it is the front face of the printed part) the leak rate was pretty high. It could hold water, but it is not air tight. The idea now would be painting it with some resin. But we are not sure since the over pressure - normal cycle might damage it cheers,

One could do a replacement holder (3D printed) integrating some bearings. The question is: can the S5 chassis take the 2,5kg weight? For now we have taken a small 750gr empty spool and rewind it with the 2,5kg filament cheers,

this one i didn't see it looks very nice if our workshop has capacity we will try to do something in aluminium thanks

Yes. Bearings sounds like a good idea I just saw in thingyverse one can find the "original" spool holder. But we will do something independent thanks

Hi, Yesterday I was trying to print again to check the settings to let you know here. I was in the same room when it broke. It turns out that it broke not at the feeder but like 30cm before. Either it got caught somewhere or the spool was not spinning. We have a 2.5 kg filament. It doesn't turn very freely in the Ultimaker holder. I'm thinking about putting some grease (dirty), teflon (if it fits) or making an additional support with bearings or a better turning mechanism. regards,

Hi, The filament is actually bending a lot, I have to bend it 180º and back to the other side to break it. I tried with other PLA (not tough) and they snap much easier. Is it possible water got in and that's why it doesn't snap? because it is softer? thanks

Hi there, We have an Ultimaker S5. We haven't used it for a while due to the coronavirus situation and home-office time. A colleague printed something last week and I also tried on Friday with tough PLA from BASF Innofil 3D When I arrived today the printing process was paused and asking for more material. The filament was broken at the height of the feeder. I am guessing maybe too much pressure and maybe the filament not going out of the nozzle. Perhaps the temperature of the print head is not high enough after some time? Other printouts with normal PLA worked fine. And these problematic 2 I am commenting started fine, but at some point the problem appeared. What could it be? thanks

Hi, Do you think the impact modifier would make a big difference in the radiation length? We don't need absorber, but a shell to close the detector (PWO crystals). We want to see the effect of the material in front of the crystals thanks regards,

Hi there, I would like to know the chemical composition (formula) of the tough PLA. We want to study their radiation length. The idea is know how much it "blocks" particles in a nuclear physics experiment thanks

Hi there, thanks for the extensive information. So you have 0.8mm wall thickness. We have 4mm. I attach some pictures. It's a "box". It will be glued to an aluminium frame (which will be screwed with an o-ring to an aluminium plate). No support, the design was made in a way that it is not needed. I'm thinking about going to 3mm thickness (for structure) and then do the painting/coating (for tightness) thanks

Hi there, In the end we will use tough PLA, we got a BASF 2.5kg spool. I always print with the standard options so I am not expert in touching many of the options. - For this purpose I have changed the infill to 100%, the "wall line count" to 10 (to make sure it the print head goes around 10 times and not the zigzag filling) - The printing speed is set at 50mm/s by default. Would you recommend to change it? - Layer height 0.15mm. It takes already 2.5 days. With 0.1mm takes 3.5 days, would you recommend to to to 0.1mm? - All flow options are at 100%. Which ones would you recommend to change and how much? - Would you suggest any other changes? The coating idea is very good. We can paint it inside and out. Since we are testing first the small part with the Ultimaker, we will do a leak test, then paint and do it again thanks

Hi there, We want to print a closing shell. It will be ca 1 meter in diameter, 0,5 meters long and 4mm thick. We will flush this volume with dry air or Nitrogen. I was thinking about printing something with 100% infill. First doing a prototype in our Ultimaker to then go to something big, like a Bigrep. What materials would you recommend that are air tight? thanks regards

I watched the video. It looks very promising the volcano PLA. Unfortunately I can't order it (it's not in our ordering system). I'll first try with CPE+, if it doesn't work I'll find a way thanks