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Zbyszko

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  • 3D printer
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    US
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    Engineering

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  1. I just downloaded Cura 4.0 so was going to try printing with a "clean slate", however it seems that it copied over my v3.6 settings since I didn't delete that version before installing the new one. Going to try and do a complete re-install over the weekend and see how it goes. I'm pretty sure this has to be a settings related or Cura-playing-nice with printer issue since as you can see in my earlier post it prints fine using a different slicer with same material.
  2. OK, I just printed another couple of the washers along with some hubs that I needed to print. I slowed the print speed in CURA down to 35mm/s which made the wall speed 17.5mm/s. Min layer time set to 10s and lowered the print temp down to 240oC. You can see that the issue is still persists on the washers (back right) where it looks like it's printing in spurts. When I look at in Cura layer view it shows that the entirety of that section should be a shell and it basically makes one rotation clockwise/counter-clockwise at 17.5mm/s then reverses direction before moving onto the next part. I'm stumped!
  3. Thanks again for taking the time to reply. The Cura g-code I believe was my second attempt at printing the washers because I recall the first time I tired I tried printing 6 at one time. I've added an 8 second minimum layer time to my Cura settings but maybe I need to bump that up further and test.... Most advise not to use cooling fan when printing with ABS. Wall speed is auto-calculated to 1/2 of print speed but maybe I'll override that to something like 1/3 and see how it goes. Will retry and post results. Thank you.
  4. Tried these changes but the print came out pretty much the same. It also reminded me that I had this issue when trying to print small washers (another circular part) for my 3d printer bed. I have them around still so I went ahead and re-sliced them with the other app to see if they print correctly (something I did not originally try), and they did. I checked the speed and they printed at around the same rate as per repetier host viewing of g-code. The Cura-sliced ones washer were printed at 245C so a little higher but the frames above were all at the same temp (240oC). The ones on the left were sliced in Cura 3.6 and the right were in Slic3r and printed today. Convinced that this is some setting to do with either circles or thin parts, or both, since all my other Cura-sliced prints without these features printed fine. I've attached the g-code from both; perhaps you guys could take a gander. Much thanks. washers.zip
  5. Thanks for taking the time to reply and the suggestions. I've actually not made much progress on the bridging front since I think I may have jumped the gun in trying to tackle that before optimizing other thing like print speed and temp. It would be great if there was a flowchart that covered what to tune and in which order when starting with a new material. I did find something like what I'm describing on thingiverse but as of this moment I'm trying to figure out why CURA sliced prints are coming out poorly when it comes to fine lines which print fine when sliced with a different app. I did receive some good feedback and will try the implementing it momentarily. When I finish with these steps I'll come back to trying bridging again.
  6. HI Guys, sorry about the lack of detail in my OP... it was getting late. I have a Monoprice Maker Select 3D v2. The print was in ABS with which I've printed a bunch of other items, most taller than this, and they came out fine as long as there was no bridging. This seems to be related to what smartavionics posted. I'll try your suggestion today. My settings were: Combing mode: within infill Retraction distance: 0.5mm Retraction minimum travel: 0.8mm Layer height: 0.2mm Line width: 0.4mm Infill line width: 0.4mm Wall thickness: 1mm Coasting: off Playing the layers in Cura it does look like there are some hops going on (see screenshot) when its printing the motor holders. Applying the settings to set combing mode to "no skin" and extending the no retract distance to 10mm: I'll give this a shot this evening. Let me know if you have any other input based on the additional info I provided (or if you need any more info for that matter). Much thanks!
  7. Hi, Not quite sure what I messed up in Cura 3.6 but I don't recall having this issue in the previous 2.x version (which I unfortunately deleted so can't compare settings). Please see the attached photo. Ignoring the colors, the left was sliced with Cura 3.6 and the right with Slic3r. This issue only seems to pop up on curved walls but I could be mistaken here. Either way, not sure what the issue could be. Both are printed around the same speed and the temps were the same. I looked at the layer preview and it looks looks fine.
  8. Thanks for taking the time to reply. I did have min layer time turned to 0. I did check the F commands and all layers were the same. No retractions since printing in vase mode. You are correct. Firmware is Repetier 1.0x which I believe does have M220 support. I did try printing the square tower using manual feedrate control on the printer itself which worked but I learned that the printer doesn't like to take corners at a high speed (they show significant degradation beyond 40mm/s) so for this test I think I need to switch to a cylinder tower. Still would like to know how to do this automatically if anyone has any other input. Much thanks!
  9. I'm trying to print a "speed tower" in vase mode. Want to adjust the print speed up every 5mm of the tower. I used Cura's ChangeAtZ post-processing plug-in to change the print speed. Unfortunately it has no effect and I suspect this is due to the fact that wall speed is a multiple of print speed. Any way to work around this so I can print my tower? Is there a way to change the print speed to wall print speed multiplier from 0.5 to 1 somewhere? Thanks!
  10. Hi, I'm a relative novice at 3D printing and up until recently have been printing in PLA without much issue. I need to print some functional parts with higher temp tolerance so I purchased a roll of Inland ABS and did some test prints. In general, everything is fine - but bridges are horrendous. The temp tower in the image used no fans at all. To try to find some reasonable bridging settings I used the experimental bridging settings in Cura 3.6 and printed seven 5cm bridges with different per-model settings. I set the min bridge wall length to 5mm and then varied the speed, flow, and fan settings between the models. As you can see in the second attachment I was not very successful. Aside from needing some advice on what are good starter ABS settings for bridging I'd like to ask the following questions. Is bridging fan speed influenced by other settings in Cura? Reason I'm asking is: I had "Enable Print Cooling" set to on with a Fan speed of 0 and bridging fans speeds I used were 20 and 45% but I don't think that the fan kicked on at all. I tried the fan commands (which I confirmed were present in the g-code) manually and the fan kicked on but it was pretty slow on the 20% setting. Is there a setting to "blip" the fan for a fraction of a second to ensure that the fan overcomes static-friction? I there a way to highlight bridges and when fan are on in the slicer view? I would be helpful to check visually without having to look through the g-code. What should I try next? My setup: Wanhao duplicator i3 with Micro Swiss all-metal head, in cardboard/plexiglass enclosure. Print speed: 50mm/s Print temp: from 240 - 270 (extruder was struggling at 235 so more recent attempts have been at 240C min) Bridge settings: varied; on the bridge trial I tried 30 and 60mm/s bridging speed with 70 and 90% flow. Thank you for the help!
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