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TheOneLasagna

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  1. I found an ok solution: I twisted some steel wire into a small cable using a power drill, and simply pushed that through the tube, making sure to twist it and break up the supports inside. However, I am still seeking a better solution. I will be sure to print out some smaller "test tubes" with different support settings and share the results.
  2. Sorry for the late reply. I don't have a dual extrusion printer, so that can't be an option for me. It would also be a pain to go back into the model and change all of my tubes into a different shape, but I will consider it. Any more ideas? All I've been able to think of was maybe creating some kind of tool that can reach in the tube and remove the supports.
  3. I was wondering if anyone could provide any tips or guidance when it comes to 3d printing tubes with supports. When designing the tubes, I quickly realized that they would have to print with supports inside them. I understand that it is easy to print tubes without supports if they are just straight, but if the tube includes curves, bends, twists, etc., how exactly would you remove them? Here's a curved tube that I need to print: Supports would need to be created inside the tube toward the bottom, but how could I remove them once the print is completed?
  4. Thanks for the help! Would the gaps between the supports just be however long you think your printer can bridge?
  5. Does anyone know the best support pattern for removal? I am attempting to print a small spring so I need something that can be removed without breaking the spring.
  6. I have been having problems calibrating the extruder on my Creality Ender 3 printer. According to this webpage(https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/), you must measure 120mm of filament from the extruder and mark it, extrude 100mm of filament, multiply the current steps per mm value by 100 and divide it by how much filament was actually extruded to get the new steps per mm value. I tried this, and say if I had 20.5 mm of filament left and did the aforementioned steps, my value would end up overshooting it, and I would next end up with 19.5mm left. I don't know what the problem is, as I have checked and my extruder gear and it seems to be working properly and not slipping. It could be that I am not measuring the filament in the exact same spot each time, and if so, how do I? I am overall goal is to achieve a printing tolerance of 0.3 mm, as my printer has barely gotten a 0.5mm on a tolerance test and nothing more than that. I have also tried printing cool, unifying speeds, and controlling acceleration. Any ideas?
  7. Ok, I've tried all of the recommended methods but I still can't even get a 0.3mm gap on a tolerance test. Do I need to further calibrate until it's perfect? Could there be something wrong with my printer?
  8. Thanks for the advice. I’ll update you when I’ve tried that. Edit: One question, should ALL of the speeds match? There seem to be a lot of values(travel speed, initial layer speed, top/bottom speed, etc.).
  9. Hi, I'm quite new to 3d printing, and am having issues with gap tolerance on my new Ender 3. I doubt it is the printer, as I have it calibrated down to a 0.02 mm inaccuracy on 20mm test cubes on the x and y axes. Despite this, I can only get the .5 mm gap to work on various tolerance tests with the help of a screw driver. I have also had issues like holes being too small, and certain parts not fitting together well. I am using Hatchbox PLA filament at 205 degrees on the nozzle and 60 degrees on the bed. I am using the recommended settings on cura except with zhop and combing on all.
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