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gwatson1990

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Everything posted by gwatson1990

  1. Hey all, I've been running a custom build with a MK8 nozzle and an E3D titanium heatbreak for a while now, solely printing PETG. As I'm sure most of you know, often times PETG can make a pretty good mess of your hot-end especially during long prints. I recently went to switch my nozzle from a 0.4 to a 0.6 and when I took my hot-end apart there was filament along the threads of the nozzle and some of the heat break. After dozens of hours of printing I had no issues that would indicate a loose nozzle (oozing filament out of the heater block or flow issues) and it didn't seem to me that any filament had leaked from the inside out as I did a successful cold pull prior to disassembly and there was no filament pancaked between the two mating surfaces of the nozzle and heat-break. So my question is can the capillary effect cause filament to creep up the threads if there is space between the nozzle flange and the heater block? Or... am I just in denial that I didn't tighten my nozzle well enough?
  2. I have an E3D V6 with the all metal hotend and I'm enjoying it, but I've noticed that there are some brands of PLA (Mainly ESUN) that refuse to print without jamming no matter what settings I try to use. I'd like to branch out past HatchBox and 3D Solutech brands of PLA , but I don't want massive amounts of buyers remorse if I can avoid it! Does anyone have any suggestions or experiences with PLA brands that they've had great experiences with when using an E3D V6? Also what is it that makes some brands of PLA jam and others not?
  3. What printer do you have and what brand of ABS were you using?
  4. Have you tried contacting E3D about this issue? I just remembered your using a geared extruder which I'm not familiar with using so I don't know how that could be effecting the way you do you retractions but, they might know exactly what's going on here. Also if you haven't verified your hot-end temperature is displaying accurately I would recommend you do so if you are able.
  5. You might be able to save yourself the trouble of altering your design by switching the material your printing with. If your are able, I would recommend using ABS for something like this. While a lot of people will tout PETG to be as capable as ABS, it really isn't. PETG is a lot more brittle and less impact resistant than ABS and has very little give causing it to snap easily. ABS will give you that snap fit you are looking for without compromising on the design.
  6. My Cura has magically reset some settings before when trying to print pots, vases etc... If you haven't already you can double check these settings: Top Layers (should be set to 0); Infill (set to 0); Print thin walls.
  7. I'll definitely look into it although I'm not a big PETG fan (but I'm interested in trying PA!). To expand on my situation a little more it seems that my issue could be related to lesser quality filament. When using Hatchbox and 3D Solutech PLA's, I was having great success with 6 hour plus prints! However, my frustrations really got started when I bought a 2 pack of SUNLU PLA + in grey and black, which as far as I know has a sup-par rap and it might be better for me to just send the rolls back.
  8. Yes, before the V6 I had a PTFE heatbreak which was very forgiving. I recently noticed that the mounting set up I was using wasnt allowing the fan to properly mount in the heat sync so I'm hoping that will help.
  9. I recently installed a E3D V6 all metal hot-end on my Ender and I've been wrestling with it quite a bit when printing PLA. I'm a bit confused with what works better... I've read in some places that you should print 10-15C hotter than you normally would with PLA (https://letsprint3d.net/all-metal-hotends-troubleshooting-guide/). Yet, when it comes to addressing partial clogs or jams I'm told to print cooler to prevent heat creep. Anybody willing to share their experiences?
  10. Previously this was not needed though, which is why I'm puzzled a bit. Is it due to the design or is there an issue with my hardware?
  11. Unsure if this company distributes in Europe, but I've been using IC3D's ABS for some time now and it is top notch. I've also taken a tour of their facility (it's close to home) and their Q.C. is on point!
  12. Don't know much about the printer but it looks to be a Prusa clone of sorts. You could probably start by picking the Prusa I3 profile and adjust the bed size as needed in the profile. I would also make sure that your retraction is set to less than 3mm as the Pulse looks to have an E3D hot-end and you wouldn't want to risk a jam with PLA (not sure if it's all metal though). Hope this helps! If you haven't done this already lol
  13. Set your infill to 0% and top layers to 0. That should do it, but double check it in the print preview before printing.
  14. Z-Hop may help then and it doesn't take much... When I switched to an E3D V6 on my Ender it seemed as if the heat radiating from the nozzle mixed with its proximity to the printed material was causing the nozzle to pull from the material already printed and then crossing over and the hop eliminated about 98% of that issue (This is with a Bulls-eye duct. as well) That might explain why no amount of setting combos were working.
  15. If you haven't tried these yet, they've helped me in certain applications. If you are using Cura make sure Combing is turned on and try a z-hop of 0.1mm. This is all done using the lowest temperature that you can reliably print with a given filament.
  16. I recently switched to and E3D v6 on my Ender 3 and I'm running Cura 4.3. I've never had any issues with stringing until now with PLA, but after the switch it took me a while to get the stringing down to an acceptable level (Small hairs that can be blasted with a heat gun). The changes in my other settings I could make sense of such as shorter retractions and slower retract speeds, but what I can't figure out is why I suddenly need Z-hop to get the same results as the stock hotend. Is there something that I may be overlooking in my Cura settings or a difference in the hot ends that require the z-hop? I'll attach my profile below, any input would be greatly appreciated! Ender3ProfileE3DV6.curaprofile
  17. ----Solved---- After finding better placement for my multimeter thermistor (inside the nozzle) I found a 15-25 degree lower temperature difference between what was displayed and the actual. I changed the temp sensor in Marlin and now I'm reading +/- ~1C. So, I was actually printing way to cold and the filament wasn't behaving properly. Thank y'all for your input!
  18. I updated my Marlin firmware to reflect the change in my thermistor and heater cartridge. I used the thermistor that came with my multi-meter to verify that the temperature was reading correctly (placing it at the same point as the printer's thermistor) and my firmware is reading +/- 5C of actual, which I think is the most that somebody with a lower-end printer can ask for in my opinion. If I go much lower my layer adhesion really starts to tank...
  19. Already lower than 185? I used to print the 3D Solutech at 205 and up and and the Eryone at 190 and never got any stringing. Is it necessary to print at a lower temp with an E3D style hot end?
  20. I recently switched to an E3D V6 all metal hot end clone which I ended up buying a high end heater block and polished titanium throat for anyways for my Ender 3. Prior to this I had never had any issues with stringing nor did I have to spend much time tuning retraction settings for any of the filaments I used save PETG. After switching to the V6 I've been having almost non stop stringing issues with my Ender using PLA. I've tried 3 different types of filaments... Hatchbox PLA (Black), 3D Solutech PLA (Green), and Eryone PLA (Marble). Just before swapping hot ends I did a 10+ hour print with the 3D Solutech and it was retraction heavy, but gave me no issues. Now, I've tried anywhere from .75mm to 6mm of retraction from speeds 10mm/s to 100mm/s and I cannot get it to stop stringing in the least. I'm currently testing the Eryone PLA , but it's looking like its going to be the same problem. However, the Hatchbox gave me virtually no strings at 2mm retraction at 70mm/s. I've printed each one of these filaments at 185C hot nozzle temp to reduce temp related oozing as well. So did these two filaments just suddenly absorb to much moisture? They are both less that 4 months old and actually... the Hatchbox is almost a year old and I never stored it in a bag. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
  21. Have you tried checking your Infill Overlap percentage? Mine is usually anywhere from 8-10%
  22. I've recently been printing with PETG and I've been having what I think to be some extrusion issues caused by Cura lately. On my first few test cubes the lines were so thin that I could still see the "Ender 3" on my Ender 3 print bed. This is not reflective of the print settings however, which are: Nozzle Temp: 240c Bed Temp: 80c 0.2mm Layer Height and 0.4mm Line width Initial Layer width: 150% (0.6mm) Normal layer extrusion multiplier: .97 Initial layer extrusion multiplier: 1.00 Travel Speed: 150mm/s Print Speed: 40mm/s Retraction: 5mm @ 20mm/s No cooling fan Coasting: Enabled Combing: Not in skin No Z-Offset It was suggested that I should lower my speed from 40mm/s to 20mm/s (Outer wall speed: 10mm/s!) so, I did and the next cube came out with much better layer adhesion and the line width I was expecting given the settings. I then decided to print this from thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2856991 I used the same settings and when it started to print I noticed the line width was back to being too thin again just like before. The only thing that I could do to get the desired width back was to up my initial layer extrusion from 100 to 150 which from what I've seen is way higher than the norm for PETG settings. So Iet it print while I was sleeping and the next morning the finished print had a lot of fine stringing between objects (objects were fully printed though) and when I removed them from the plate everything above the first layer essentially crumbled under any kind of pressure. I had a similar issue with PLA during a bigger print and had to up the extrusion rate to an abnormal level a few days earlier but the layer adhesion was still good. I don't know what the deal is now, I'm ruling out any hardware issues because I've got no clicking or shavings from my extruder, the filament sits on a roller inside a dry-box, there is not cracking and popping from water in the filament out of the hot-end, and I've verified my temperatures with a thermistor on my volt meter. Anybody have any ideas or ran into this kind of problem before?
  23. I slowed the print speed on my test cube that's printing right now from 40mm/s to 20mm/s as suggested and I already see a difference in the way my layers. Thanks for the input!
  24. So raise I need to try and raise the ambient air temp for better adhesion on PETG? I have a heat lamp that I can clamp on out of the way that might help some.
  25. Thank you! I will trying lowering it to 20mm/s. So is PLA+ a good alternative to PETG? I'm looking for something that has good impact resistance without having to upgrade my hot-end to all metal (I realize that might be a unicorn though). Originally I wanted to try ABS, but I kept on reading about the fumes which deterred me more than the printability... are they that bad?
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