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Deeps

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Everything posted by Deeps

  1. I also am having issues with this. It seems everything I print on my S5 with the 5.3 release the Z-offset is too high and nothing is sticking. I had to roll back to using 5.2.1 to get things to stick. I don't quite understand how you fixed your problem. Was there a specific slicer setting that was causing it for you?
  2. Thanks for the input fellas. Very much appreciated.
  3. Gero, Thanks for the comprehensive reply and recommendations. - When using another brand of PVA are you still using a BB core? I guess I don't really know what's special about a BB core pairing with PVA. I would assume I should use my BB core for all PVAs regardless of manufacturer. - You're situations sounds much like mine where you had an S5 and then got the material station. Some S5s that were made earlier had a more coarse gear on the knurled mechanism for the feeder. Ultimaker offered an upgrade to a finer knurl on the exturder and I'm curious to know if you have a newer S5 with the finer knurl or an earlier model. (https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360015621060-PVA-material-breaking-in-the-Material-Station) - When using other brands of PVA in the Material Station do you just use an unmodified 'Generic PVA' profile? Thanks much, Happy New Years. DR
  4. Does anyone have experience keeping PVA in the material station for long periods of time? (3-6 months) I use PVA rarely and have trouble making it thorough a whole roll before the roll takes up enough moisture that it's fubar. I guess I could use newer smaller rolls of PVA but I have some big ones around still shrink wrapped that I'm debating opening. Haven't used PVA since I added the material station and was hoping the community could guide me before I burn a roll on a single print only to find it fouled 3 months later. Also if I have an old roll that's taken up some ambient moisture, will leaving it in the material station resurrect the roll? I've historically been pretty unsuccessful drying them out in the over etc. Thanks to anyone who lends advice!
  5. The community will correct me if I'm wrong but I believe you'd have to unplug and remove/unstack the material station and S5. Then you have to replace the NFC spool holders on the back of the S5 and load the roll in question. Giant PITA. For non-supported filaments you can use Generic Profiles and tweak them as long as the prime sequence works for the material. I really wish everyone making 2.85 filament would get around to loading profiles for the material station ASAP so we could really flex it's potential.
  6. Hey Guys, Got some X-Strand GF30-PP and was wondering where to start as a generic profile for the Material Station/S5. Do I just use the Generic PP profile? Was intending to use with my 0.6 CC core. Any direction would be appreciated.
  7. Well I'm sure that's supremely frustrating! Has ultimaker had any creative answers to the air manager not found error? I've seen multiple people on the forum losing big prints due to this.
  8. Thanks for the feedback. The forums can be quite polarizing at times. I think one of the issues is the ProBundle targets a very specific market and therefore there don't seem to be that many out there. I wish more happy people would take to youtube or reddit to describe their success. Perhaps Ultimaker could foster more pro-sumers to throw up some youtube videos of how they are using the Pro bundle and how it's helped them increase productivity and get them on the channel. Bundle hasn't shipped yet and with the COVID stuff effecting times it's a bit unclear. Hoping it shows up next week sometime.
  9. So I just ordered my Material Station and Air Manager the other day. Hasn't come yet. Was bored tonight and was reading through the forum and there's a lot of unhappy people who seem to have had nothing but trouble with the combination. The purpose of the post is to make me feel better about my purchase and not cancel my order before it even gets here so I don't have to deal with setting it up and shipping it back. IS THERE ANYONE OUT THERE WHO'S HAPPY WITH THEIR PROBUNDLE? I'd like to hear from you and briefly about your expereince. What you're printing, how much and how hard the setup was, any hits in terms of reliability? I've already struggled with the random PVA S5 filament sensor errors and had plenty of failed prints on an expensive machine touted to be the pinnacle of FDM reliability and ease of use. I don't know if I have the time or patience to compound those errors with a ProBundle that the forum would suggest is not fully baked (no offense Ultimaker). Come on guys, help me rationalize my big purchase further down the rabbit hole of Ultimaker products.
  10. Thanks for your input. I don’t have the smaller print core I probably will order one eventually. It does not error with 0.04 layer height, that seems to slice just fine. DR
  11. So, I'm still exploring my S5. I went to print a small plug for a PTFE tube, it basically a 3 mm tower. I wanted to try to print it at the "20 micron" height touted on some of the promo materials for the printer. Here's the thing: Every time I lower the layer height to 0.02 in Cura it won't let me slice. "Unable to slice due to some per model settings" Support infill layer thickness Extruder Prime X Position Can someone who's pulled off a 20 micron print give me some advice on how to set this up? Thanks DR
  12. I've been working with Ultimaker CPE Dark Grey for a few days now and it seems like I'm getting more stringing and 'goobers' than I expected. I'm using the default profile that was set by the NFC chip in the spool. I went through a roll of PLA first on the S5 and the print quality was close to perfect. Since loading up the CPE I keep getting print quality like you see in the image below. I tried dropping the temp by 5 deg or so to see if the stringing was less but can't really perceive a difference. Any suggestions are much appreciated.
  13. Isn’t CPE pretty similar to PET/G? I was under the impression that they’re both Copolyesters and Ultimakers PET is just named CPE.
  14. Thanks Smithy, That’s super helpful. I’ll give the CPE a try and if it doesn’t work out I’ll switch it up to ASA.
  15. Thanks Everyone. Great video to watch as well. Very helpful info on avoiding warping and increasing adhesion.
  16. I'm trying to make a short run of functional prototypes. They won't need to take much weight but will be outside in both warm and cold climates. Also will be near salt water with occasional water exposure and a significant amount of UV exposure: I'm looking for advice on a good material to use. The print needs PVA support as well so needs to be PVA compatible. Nylon seems to be out because of moisture absorption. ASA seems to be the most UV resistant but there's no ASA from Ultimaker or literature on printing ASA on my S5. Could it be done? Would I need a ruby 0.6 composite print core? ABS is out because it seems from what I read I doesn't do so well under UV exposure and it's not PVA compatible. I'm thinking either tough PLA or CPE would be reasonable I don't think I need CPE+. I've really not messed around with PC or PP. It's not an impact part, really more of a hook that would hold a wet rope/line. Any advice from the community would be much appreciated. DR
  17. Shadowman, I've seen a couple of your posts on the forum. You seem like a wealth of information and quite the crusader against the whole Aluminum Build Plate debacle. So let me make sure to say thanks! Ok so now I have a followup question. Are you using a glue stick with PLA as well. It seems that small prints in the center of the bed are fine, but today I did a big print using the whole with of the S5 build plate and I noticed one corner peeled up a bit (shrinkage/warping). I didn't put anything down on the glass because most of my PLA prints stick to the heated bed just fine. Are people also using glue stick or hair spray prep for PLA and Tough PLA prints or just other materials like Nylon, CPE and ABS? Thanks DR
  18. Hi guys, New to the forum. So I have an UMS5 and I'm working on a prototype that needs to be printed in Nylon (I think). I'm looking for something heat (100 deg f) and salt water resistant that will get a bunch of direct sunlight, I figured Nylon might be a good solution. I read that Nylon should be printed on a glue layer to keep from the nylon sticking to the glass an possibly causing chips in the glass? I've found glue sticks messy to apply and hard to apply evenly. I've previously used Aquanet/Hairspray on an older printer, but before I go spraying my beautiful glass bed with hairspray I thought I'd ask the forum if anyone's been using Hairspray instead of Glue with Nylon prints on their S5? Any comments/feedback would be appreciated. Thanks for participating in the forum and helping the community as well as UM users like myself. DR
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