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HaryPlotter

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Everything posted by HaryPlotter

  1. Ok, now that we are all through x-mas and newyears time, party, headake and afterparty... ... I finally started to draw some basic sketches and make some prints. Now the hardware is there and I could take the measurements according to the hardware and that is what came out (see fotos). So now I have solved the hardware-problem (minus 1-2 issues --> The cover for the laser-tunnel is still missing but what the heck)... I then did some testing and the installation worked fine. The only thing is that I had to organize some different size screws as the old ones holding the extruders will become 3-4 mm too short... As of next month I will set me up a more comfortable way of programming my rasp (ordered a little touchscreen) and I will start to fool around with the programming software on it. So again I hope I do´n t have to do everthing by myself... therefore it would be great I someone could help me with the programming of the rasp in order to get the fotocell to work propperly in conjunktion with the Laser LED. I also researched the command for pausing the printer which can be executed directly from the programm over the rasp when the laser will hit the fotocell... ... will keep you updated on the project as it continues. Greetings Daniel
  2. Great! Thanks again... You´ re a great teacher. Now I even know that... so instead of Compiling the whole program each time, running the .pyc-code is much easier for the interpreter to understand and thus saves time. I can even decompile those files back to the original scripts. That is wild! Understood the ID and KEY, log as well. Now I´ m starting to draw again because today I got myself a small touchscreen I want to implement ontop of my rasp... makes programming and testing the code later much easier.. Greetings Daniel
  3. Yep, all worked out for me. Testing worked great and all of the scripts are doing just what they are supposed to do.. Thanks again for the forwarding. So I guess I close the subject for now. I wish to all of you that you will have a great christmas in the upcomming days and weeks and that all your wishes (for filaments and stuff YEAH) are going to come true... ;O) For myself I had a wish for a new kind of filament (Ultrafuse 316L from BASF) which I will test in January .. the only thing I have to figure out is the shrinkage of the printed objects to after the sintering-process. I was at the formnext one month ago and they tolkd me that the probably will make a software for it once there is enough demand for it.... would be great! And it gets better. Next year they´ ll bring out 2 new filaments based on the same process. On that goes where the PVC gets in. This in order to separate the fiament and make overhangs printable (ceramic based filament) and another Filament in the metall direction ---> Steel or even Titanium. That would make things available that were restricted to people that can afford a Markforged or similar printers... Nice things to come! So happy Christmas!!! Greetings Daniel PS: I saw that something is creating a file (I left it here for you as a .log-File). I had been part of a .py File. So I guess this is the Token that the Ultimker creates to allow the program (API) to be executed? Is this a "general-key" or does it create itself again every time at a new "handshake". If not, is it swapable to other PC´ s (e.G. the Rasp) to avoid the authorisation process with another PC? If you don´ t know it doesn´ t matter because the result is there anyhow... UM3_API.cpython-36.log
  4. tinkergnome, you are my hero!!! Great job. You even thougt about adapting my IP-Adress. This just brings me so much further... So to say I will have to authorise the PC for once and then it will be executed without asking me that authoristaion again. GREAT! Once I advance with the Raspberry project. I will most certainly keep you uptdated. Just to be sure (I will test it tomorrow): So for example if I run a print and I want to pause it. I ´ ll go into the command mode (CMD) and I start the pausing python-file throughout python and it should first ask me to authorise this and then pause the printer. Is this right? Afterwards I could even implement an Icon, when I interlink it with that special command. I hope I got it right.. at least I could do this in Windows.. Because in the end I´ ll have to solve it as a selfexecuting version over Linux that keeps running in the rasp and executes the pausing just if the signal of my fotocell dropps below a certain value... but this I´ ll figure out once I hav the last device ready (still waiting on the laser-diode to drop in)... Greetings Daniel
  5. Hi tinkergnome, thank you for your help so far. Slowly I am understanding better now (slowly). So first of all it is not that I am not thinking about programming python. It is just that I haven´t had any experience in it without getting to run a program (timelapse.py) that I found somewhere and it helped alot understanding where a print failed. This I could get to run with some time but I did not programm it. So I litterally have had to look up what "put" or "get" means. So I used the code that was displayed in your links and tried to start it (adding the correct ip-Adress of my printer).. and probabbly I miss out to change some other syntaxes of the code itself. With that other program (timelapse.py) I had no big problems to implement that but here I see that I still need some more time with that... Anyhow I am not giving up! There was another problem.. when I "copy/pasted" the lines for python. The editor did put the programme in only one line, which makes the overwiev very nasty. Is there a better way to copy the lines the way I see them in the link into a pyhton program? Anyhow, all theses lines lead to beeing able to set the value "print", "pause" or "abort" pyhsically remotedly. Once I have this figured out correctly I still would like to know if there is a way to putting the "pause"-command into a shell that if executed pauses the print with no further personal handling. Because if it isn´ t, the idea to stop any print with the lack of filament would could not be stopped automatically (e.G. if every time the printer would demand an authorisation). So this remains for me the biggest question. I have added the lines I copied from the remote-access-part an a screenshot of the result of on of the programms... Greetings Daniel PS: Please feel free to help me understand, what changes I have to make to get those programms to work propperly (please leave out bad comments as I know that I don´ t know anything about programming) PPS: I changed that extensions from .py to .log to be able to upload the files here... test.log Test2.log Test3.log
  6. Hi, I am trying to build an interruptor to save filament and or to "pause" prints, when no filament is available anymore. An important step to complete this task is to be able to change the state of the printer from "Printing" to "pause". I asked some pros in the exibition "formnext" and they told me in the api of the Ultimaker there should be a code. So I looked it up. I found someting promising, but I don´ t get too far. I will add some screenshots so you will see, what I am talking about. 1. The api asks me an authorisation. Somehow it lets me go forward if I use "ultimaker" and "admin", so I guess it´ s the same PW as the PW I used to change the extruders... 2. There is a command that gives out the current state of the printer. But somehow I can not change the state. 3. There is a command that starts with "Curl -x...." But I cannot use that command, as I would like to change the state directly in the command line instead of only getting the current state of the printer. I think that has to do with programming JSON-Files and I cannot yet program json or python-Files 4. Then I looked at the printer connection of Cura and there is a button that allows the printer to be paused. So I tried to find out, what command this button triggers (see screenshot) but still those command lead to nowhere. Maybe someone can help me out here. Without me having to program anything in json or python or something else to be able to stop the print with that command line... A tech in the exibition told me that should be possible so maybe I overlooked something... Once I have that command ready I will implement that command to be executed when the filament runs out. This I am trying to get done with a raspbery pi. I would appreciate any help here. Thank you Daniel
  7. Ok, now we´ re getting there. Slowly but still ok... was to busy recuperating from work over the weekend so I could not find any motivation for the raspberry.... Yesterday that changed. So finally I managed to load an image to the board but couldn´ t try it because I overlooked to buy an adapter from HDMI to micro-HDMI. Small thing but it ruined my day. So today I got one and believe it or not: The smal PC is alive! Then today I made all the changments and updates on it so I can start implementing the programme and the diode. Finally I´ m waiting to get the Laser-Diodes. Once I have those I will start making a first sketch of the encasing because I can only start measuring when get this last piece. Maybe I will start playing around with python in the meantime to get first results with the board and the fotodiode... Now I´ m printing a basic encasing for the raspberry. I will adapt this device once the other things come to be implemented. But I will let you know then. Meanwhile keep me updated if you have any good ideas with programming python, or if you have the code the brings the Printer from printing into pausing... or any other help that adds to this Topic. Greetings Daniel
  8. To all of you, thank you for your input so far. But I think I will define my thoughts a bit more in detail because I´ m not thinking of "tweaking" the spool but I´ m building a direct filament-trap... I will attach a fast sketch of what I´ m about to construate. Then we talk again... So far I got the Rasperry Pi yesterday.. I will set up the OS over the weekend. Then I could start playing around with the foto-diode... But, unfortunately I won´ t get the Laser Diodes until the ! 16.12.2019 !. which for me is an eternity... ;O) so I can only start to draw the trap if I have this device because I lack the measurements for it... Anyhow I´ m eager to set this up because it will eventually save me alot of pain when doing lager prints. I will add the devices I already ordered for it so you can stay tuned... Anyhow I am still at the beginning of programming so maybe someone can add up to the team with the programming of the python lines. This is the only thing that will probably eat up more time that I want... but for someone who is used to coding, this should be a peace of cake (Take a look at the drawing). As soon as I get the last part for the trap I will start drawing some boxes in order to test the fitting of the devices and I need to find a spring that is not too tough and not too loose.. but that will be another task at the time. Hope that you have my mind now.. Greetings Daniel PS: And if some UM-pro is comming around to see the progression of this task... I didn´ t find the direct command to set the printer on hold even though I looked in the API. There are only static values to get out of it or I at least could not find a specific command line that would set the printer from "printing" mode to "pausing"- mode. But at the fair the tech there told me that it should exist in the API. So maybe we can find that out as well....
  9. Hi Geert_2, thank you for your input but maybe my previous post was not too understandible. I will try to be more exact: 1. I´ m not trying to build something complicated like a flow-sensor or something in this direction. (although I know as of today that someone can introduce an S5 flow-sensor to an U3, but that needs to trigger some sofware-update and I´m far away of reprogramming the software api). 2. There is one simple measuring device --> the laser! A) The laser connects to the reflector on the other side --> Printer stops for pausing... B) No passthrough --> no connection --> printer is not disturbed 3. The laser is (will be) connected to or an arduino or better a rasberry because of the preinstalled LAN-connection and programmed so if the laser connects the machine is said to stop. 4. Today I have been to the "formnext" in Frankfurt and I talked to a software-engeneer of ultimaker. He told me the prgram of the ultimaker can be paused and the comand for it can be found directly in the api of the printer. Nonetheless I left my card there so maybe he will help me out with the exact command. If not I will try my luck in the couple of the next days. 5. Anyhow the printing of the filament-trap is pretty easy and I´ m sure I will have a box ready by the end of next week. 6. The probelm is, that I don´ t know anything about programming but there might be someone out there that already did program with e.g. pyhton or anything that can be uploaded to a rasberry and started witht the laser diode hooked on it as a trigger-switch. So in this case I would need some support in programming as I would contribute the holding device for the laser and the box. If that runs wel´ ld have a low cost and efficient way of stopping the printer if any bowden runs out of filament. Greetings Daniel
  10. ... same for me. I´ m running a Um3e and I´ m wondering if there is any progress to get an implementation of a sensor that comunicates with the hardwäre of my printer. Especcially because that would render my recent topic useless and would save me alot of braincells for solutions that are already in the makeing or about to get finalized... If something however gets in the devstate of testing (UM3e only) pls count me in for it. Thx.
  11. Hey there, have only a few posts, but my previous account got deleted by an update to a new community server a few years ago. Since then I had alot othe stuff to do. Now I´´´ m back... Back with an important issue (so to me). As I am already using my UM3 ext. for a while and made some changes to it here and there I want yet to add another change to it. With some help we might help others too, to help save filament/ prints and therefore the environment, nature, the word and not least the universe ;O) So now to my question: How often does it happen (more to newbies probably), that you print and then there comes the time that your role slowly expires. Now you have a couple of options: 1. Or you know the weight of the empty spool and you weigh the "rest" of you filament and the you know how mucht you can still print (But that is time consuming and nobody really does that every time). 2. Or you go by eye and pray... 3. Or you just "pause" your print at a certain usage of your filament and change it rapidly by hand while your printer is on pause. The last option I found out is the best for me to keep on even with big prints. With this trick you could overcome unfinished prints, therefore cloaked nozzles (at least for the PVA-filament), you save time, money and so on. Now you are not always in to check for the current usage of your filament so I thought this should be feesible with someone who knows a bit about programming with python and combining this with a sensor. In this case that would be a normal photocell that detects light and thus gives out a command to something like an arduino to change the state of the UM3 from "printing" to "Pause" (http://192.XXX.XXX.XXX/api/v1/print_job/state). Once the filament is changed we could then manually or by direct input rechange the state to "printing". Maybe I can find some fellows who can realize this kind of painsaving "addon". I already thought about where to put the fotocell. I should be possible to print a box to install it right underneath the feeders (2 fotocells for each feeder). So if the filament ever is used up it will pass by the feeder and thus activating the fotocell. The fotocell should give out a signal to a simple pc (maybe arduino) that is then sending a command to the UM3 to pause. That should help: https://micro-dev.de/showthread.php?tid=42 (It´``` s in german but basically i´t s the setup I would like to create... Now I know about some basic comands but this task need a group of people who are more into programming and stuff. But first I would like to know if this idea catches your interest in basic. Then we could at least figure out a way together in getting some more fun into printing. What do you think about it? Greetings Daniel
  12. Hi there, since I used too much lubrificant on the topside of the metal rods I kinda ruined the headboard that is responsible for heating/cooling and so on. It wasn´t ruined all the way but enough to make my prints ugly... I think some of the connectors were shorted because of the oil... Now I got some replacements but the printhead cable doesn´t seem to be an easy replacement. So I am asking some of you if there is a video or some important explanation out there as to what screws to unlock in order to replace that cable. I don´t want to mess around with the encasing in order to creat more problems than to solve buth the cable runs through a cable canal which isn´t secured with screws and a the bottom there is a plastic cover that is screwed to the bottom of the UM3. So my first guess would be to loosen the screws that hold this plastic cover but I don´t see screws to hold the cover for the side that protects the cable and I don´t want to unscrew the whole printer. I hope that the engeneers do have thought about another way of getting the cable out save and sound without having to rebuild the machine basically from scrath just to be able to remove (replace) this cable... Any instructions about this would be highly appreciated. Thank you Daniel
  13. Hi Enigma_M4, checked it and you were right. The thing was infact the part that lockst the printheadcable into place... Problem solved... Thx!!!
  14. Hi everyone, in the past weeks I seemed to have an automatic leveling problem. So I took the long road to figure out that it probably is the pcb-Board that holds the cores that has a defect (was probably even me crashing it while som of the lube came into the WRONG place and shorted something...) Anyhow I ordered a new one now and when I get it I will reasseble the Printhead. The disassebly wasn´t that complicated although something had to happen (as alway) the printhead threw out a small tiny peace that actually I lack of finding where it should have been fitting before.. Sad but true and before I reassemble the whole core again missing out exactly this part (which will probably destroy earth when forgotten). I ask some of you --> maybe also one that already has done the disassembly part what this is for and even more important. Where I need to put it again that it should do its job it was constructed for... Greetings to everybody Daniel PS: The piece is around 10,6mm long and about 7,85 mm wide (to give you an impression on how tiny the thingy is)..
  15. ... after a firmware reset I still have the trouble but now it is saying (see picture). As well the both nozzles were pushed all the way until the end (so far that even the printbed did distort itself a bit). I really believe now that the both sensors are gone with the wind... I need a way of testing them..
  16. Hi kfsone, thank you for your exact describtion of things that could help but I think it really is not the printbed or the tip of the nozzles. I already checked if the sensors would be cut of (cable loose) but that doesn´t seem to be the problem. The rest is fine. I also right now (as I did for the past 3 month) do the manual leveling but that isn´t just as good as it was... as well the prints to get a bit different then they were before. Maybe someone can help me with some fotos where to measure the sensors and put the tips of the diode-tester in order to find out if they are still ok and what they should read. That would be a next step. As well I have the issue that the printbed stops completely half way up and only then continues the way to the nozzles. The they have 2 choices 1. Then stop 5 mm before they would even touch the nozzles and then return with an error that the differenz bezween the 2 nozzles are too big.. or 2. They touch the printbed and the same error cums up.. (again: the printbed is perfectly alined.. there is no glue or anything else on the printbed. Just the original glasplate). My guess or the sensors are giving out alien signals or the firmware is somewhat corrupted but the latter I don´t think so because it wasn´t becoming any better with an upgrade I did 3 weeks ago... Help is still apprecciated...
  17. Hey and greetings again... do you have any news regarding the fixing of the automatic levelling problem? I still don´t know what exactly is or could be wrong with the UM3... Can I take other steps to eliminate the printbed from stopping half way to the cores and then don´t even touching them? It is pretty sad that I can not use the printer anymore now for almost 3 weeks and there is no clue what I could do to search or narrow in the problem.. See you and have a nice easter holiday Greetings Daniel
  18. Hi Trueblondegod, thank you for the post, but I don´t get the same error that you got. With mine it just sais that the printheads are too far of (exeeds limit), but the printbed stops two times (once in the middle before the printheads moove and then before even touching the coretips so there must be somethine else wrong)... I´ld love to show you the vid, but I don´t get to upload .mp4-Files here... The second thread was exactly, what I thought too, but the cables are attached to the board so this won´t be the problem either... only if the sensors have a defect. I have a capacitor-meter but I would need some advice on how to read them propperly (e.g. if the machine is runnig, or even doing a leveling test... in this case I would have to dismount them and test them but again this is a moving machine so I would need exact help to be able to execute this kind of a test.) Maybe someone of you already did it and can tell me which contacts to test and what the meter should read at each point. That would at least eliminate the problem of not knowing if the sensors would be defective.. Thanks for any further advice and have a good week. Greetings Daniel
  19. Hey Forumists, now I have a complete different problem since a couple of weeks. 1. Tha automatic levelling is not working propperly anmore. 2. I did pretty much all that was recommended in previous forums... Build plate issue, changed nozzeles, updated firmware etc.. nothing works. 3. The cables for the sensor seem to be in place as well 4. can someone check the log-Files to see if the sensors themselves are defective? Is there some other issue to that? I would like to attach a video so that you can see what exactly is happening to the system. It also comes to a halt in the middle of the Z-axis, which before it didn´t do... is this supposed to be this way? Then it stops 2-3 cm befor it touches the nozzle (before it stopped ca. 1mm before the nozzle) and it does the ministeps but after a while it just aborts and goes back down telling me to check the nozzles or that the difference between them would be too high. But that is bogus because nothing changed and all the settings remained the samt. It came this way after I updated the firmare of the printer... ah and sometimes it works 1 time out of 15 tries but still the print is not working :-(. The only thing I can do right now is manual levelling but this is a p... ! Please someone from UM3, feel free to post something useful as I can not always do a manual levelling. Before this the prints were smooth and clean. now they are really hard to get them to stick to the bed propperly. I want the automatic levelling to work again. Thanks for any further advice. Sincerely Daniel PS: Wanting to show the film I learned that you don´t allow .mp4. Why? Just converting the video did cost me 1 hour of time (onlinconverter) and quality is poor and the video, which was 50MB in .mp4 now has 225 MB in .GiF. I don´t get it... is there an easier way? PPS: I couldn´t even upload the animated gif now... it is 220MB big the max size you say should be 511MB big and when it´s up after 40 mins. it´s just saying "Upload failed" and it shows an -200 sign in the window. So I´ll just post the issue now without the vid unless you tell me how I get it to be visible...
  20. Hi SandervG, thank you for your help. But that was the first thing I tried and the new account replied that there was no account filed under this mail... and to retrieve the account merely by the Nick isn´t possible. So that is why I then set up another account... Maybe there is another solution to it. Have a nice weekend. Greetings Daniel
  21. Hi SandervG, just came across this post and I have to admit, that it happened to mee, too. My previous Nick was HarryPlotter and I couldn´t sign in anymore. I still have the PW and it is long enough. So maybe you can help me out, too because my prev. post helped me out somehow or I sometimes tend to "update" them, if I have news. Now I have written about one problem of me, but since the 13.03 no one seemed to have "aprroved" my topic. Could you have a look there too please? Hope that reaches you Sincerely Daniel
  22. Dear Community, at first probably there is to say that I had to reinstall my Password as my old nick was somehow eliminated... so that is done now! Strange but true... Now to my problem. Since a few weeks I am experiencing a rather strange kind of problem. I have a stringing and blopping-problem on the prints. BUT ONLY ON ONE SIDE... I left some fotos of the actual print for you so you can see the difference from one side to the other... I don´t know with parameter to tweek here as the problem does not seem to be equally distributed. Anyhow I tried the ususal things like retraction speed z-hop and so on but there is no real improvement. And it never happened before. Filament is the same (CF-20). I use a special non abbrasive rubi.nozzle for it.. So if anybody has any idea what kind of problem causes this I would be very happy. Greetings Daniel
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