HaryPlotter

Great update! Is there any changes to the r1 or r2 feeders, or do we still have to go with the r1-Feeders?

😆😂😂 word up! That´ s what I am afraid of... I heard of people buying a tesla just for using the powercells i.g. one created a ship with that kind of drive. But that is 100% me. I start out with a small UPS and then I end up with the "diesel"-Version which isn´ t quit economical regarding the printer and the things I print (including the fails). Anyhow I thank you for your input and your thought about the UPS-calculations and I will keep that in mind when eventually buying one. The second print went great though (endured 3 days because it was a 100% infill print because of the pressure the thing had to cope with)... t was a decent print! Greetings Daniel PS: Question/Answer regarded as "answered" or"solved" whatever suits you best...

Hi there, after a print of 3d+ failed the second day becauso of a lighning and a 1sec power-off I will want to think about a UPS for the UM3. But before buying an atomic reactor or 2 Mignon AAA-Batteries I would like to know what would be a good value to look for when investing in a new UPS. I kind of read here that the UM3 uses 350 Watts but that is only what I read and I own an extended version which might have different values. I don´ t know. Anyhow maybe someone already did the calc. and can give me a hint on what kind of values to look for whne purchasing a good UPS. A best it should be able to keep the current rolling for a time so that I can still react when I´ m not at home. Maybe, just maybe there would be one to hook up to the net and it could be able to call you up and be set to a nice voice (M/F/D) to tell you that the print will fail in X minutes, whe not at home to save the print.. I´ ld feel like McClane to save it! Greetings

Hi Smithy, thanks for the answer(s). The workaround I understood. It is a petty though that the printer isn´ t made to do that easier.. For the Material profiles I understood that my printer isn´ t compatible with the filaments offered .. by the vendor. Nonetheless I use those filaments for a half eternity and most of them seem to work just fine... so I probably have to think about other reasons why they should block it (which I don´ t);O) So far so good. Hope to hear from some good new inventions soon! PS: It´ s a petty that the S5 now will not allow for the automatic calibration to be turned off.. A new printer should come with a laser guided calibration (more accurate, more reliable, no mooving parts...) PPS: I don ´ t know if they solved it jet, but I was having alot of trouble with rols that were just out of filament, when I was out of home. So I was working on that solution but in lack of programming power with an arduino and not enough time this project got stuck with the hardware only. Maybe they fix this problem on one of the new printers... PPPS: Last but not least I would be really blessed to find an UM-X with an integrated 3D scanner (a good one), so that I can manipulate things first and then print the next version... I´ m now planning on installing a USV, because a 3 day print was shredded becaus of a lighning-out of 1 sec. That was pretty "un-nice"! For this I would need some hints about the Amp and Volts that the UM3 would use max. But that I guess will need another topic. So here we go.. Greetings Daniel

Hi, I am trying to find a way to implement different settings to the printer UM3 ext. so I don´ t have to workaround everytime I use some special filament. It is always "apita" for me to adapt to the nearest value to do the calibration an then override the print every time with Cura to the values of the filament. If there ist anything I can to (even with modding) I would be so happy... Greetings Daniel PS: I tried to upload some filaments to Cura (4.9.1) from the Marketplace (ColorFabb & BASF Filaments) but they don´ t show up in the material section, but they are marked as "installed"....? What ist wrong here. I don` t get it.

Still selling? If yes pls PM me...

Ok, here it comes... The outcome seems to be ok for a first print. But I have probabbly dissolved the PVA in too hot water, so after the PVA came off there was a warping of the upper levels (not that I previeved that) but I was kind of curious if it would last for a while. Now I will have to disassemble the machine and see for myself, if I can adapt my print with e.g. thicker walls, supports on some of the upper levels that will not "hurt" the installation itself. Then I´ ll have a second print... Last step then will be a print with ABS... Here are the pics:

Yep, it´ s a blend between PC and ABS... Now I will try the following. I will first print only the damaged parts, which will save time, money and if the dimensions are not perfect (what in the first prints will / could happen can still be modified, because the filament tends to have a shringage of its own... ;O). This I´ ll do it in PLA and then try it on the original... Then eventually I will try the same print with ABS and glue it there with acetone. I thik that will never come back of as it dissoves the material to a point where it just fuses together with the PC.. would save me the bolts and as well I don´ t think the bolts would love the electronic parts (if they touch it).. Anyhow I will start the first print today and let you see the outcome... C ya!

Hi geert, yes indeed that was my second thought (repairing only the defective parts). But that is triky as well as the screws that hold donw the element ar ruined, too... Anyhow I will test the print wil normal PLA first and for sure I will have to go for the 2 parts as together they will be too big to fit the buildplate. Electronically the machine is ok and running but now you have to stress the plate in order to reach the buttons because the plate came off and before damaging it too far I wanted to repair is or to "substitute" it but for this reaso I will want to open the machine and see if there could be more space to print the walls thicker. Could help... Second try would be with PC - filament... I guess I won´t be able to substitute it with the indicaed materials as the broken areas are way too small (eg. fibreglass & epoxy... ) I would have CF-20-filament but that is just good in biger parts and if bent, it will eventually brake. I think if I succed in one test with pla I will go forward and try the same parts with PC... and then glue em together. But I am still open for any additional Ideas.. Greetings PS: I´ ll leave you with the original "broken" part so you can see the damage a bit better...

Hi Folks, since some print-downtime. I´ m back up and after doing some rather "basic" prints, I wonder if you would have a suggestion for me. The other time a part of my Dishwashing-Mashine cracked up and I couldn´ t get it back to start again. After examining the part my first idea was, hey you got a printer, so just draw it and then print it... Easy said, drawn but printing... I´ m not sure. Let´ s here my thoughts about it...: 1. The shell must be rugged and heat resistant. I guess dishwasher can end up with temperatures above PLA digits.... 2. The walls are very thin (1,5-2mm). Probably the industry solve this with a mold and just injects the molten PP or PET into it... 3. A lot of holes and tiny changes. 4. Lots of overhangs... Result: A lot of support and probably walls that will eventually break in my hands if I choose the wrong filament.. So what I need would be some kind of PC, or ABS, but ABS with PVA will not work. Maybe I miss an essential filament (or 3rd pary filament) that you guys use here to get this job done. For the support I would probably use the "interface" solution which adds only a small part of PVA on top and then creates the print above that layer. Plus maybe "conical support"... I really have no idea. Like I said thinking it and drawing it wasn´ t that hard, but now where it comes to the real thing... I probably only loose time and money when I will choose the wrong filament... Or you simply say. This is too hard and it will eventually fail, as the printer is not made for this kind of "creations". Then I will leave it be and concentrate on other things... Maybe buying an injection mold system! 😂😂 Thanks for any advice and keep save and healthy! Daniel PS: I would need to make two separate prints and then just glue em together as my printbed will not have the size and this way the print could be mor efficient nonetheless...

Just to let you know, just tried the Wood-glue and this ist atomic like! Really keeps everything there where it is supposed to go. Noneteless I will come to print ABS in a couple of days and I will report that as well...

Print went ok without the prime tower... Still have a few issues with the PVA, but I think this need to be tweaked bit by bit...

Good, I´ ll try that... Given room humidity I built a drybox about 2 years ago, but stopped printing because of pandemic issues.. Now I´ m back on the row and need to find my way back into it. That is eventually why I chose to change the remaining PVA completely... but still. Well I think when temperatures rise again. I will have more chances.. Drybox keeps the PVA to a stable 23% humidity (max 30%). So I hope that is enough to get rid of this number in the equation of misleading prints..

HI, hope everybody is ok and prints are turning out great... I have a larger print to do and want to use the interface layers for the first time as my PVA always seems to get stuck in the extruder klogging it... (new ectruder, new filament). I thinkt it is the rather small sections of support the causes the filament to get kind of "cooked" inside the extruder after a while. Supporting small areas is always difficult, so now I try with the interface posiibility hoping that this reduces the chance of my pva getting stuck and therefore ruining my time and the print itself... In doing so I want to implement a primetower thus getting a greater chance of extruding enough filament (PVA) out of the nozzle so it will not gettign cooked inside the nozzle again.. However now my problem is that the primetower was split into "sections" (see foto). So partly the PVA will not get print and then eventually in the void because there isn´t any PVA left underneath the body. This said you can immagine what follows... if it isn´ t wiped by the outer perimeter the PVA will eventually create problems to the print. Is there a way of solving this problem and still remain with the interface support? Greetings Daniel

Nice idea. I will try that because I was trying only with my yearly everytime glue UHU, which produced good results..

Hi, I am wondering if there is a workaround that you have already done that allows me to upgrade my existing printbed that is reaching now max 98c. Right now I am experiencing too much fails with PC and ABS and I am 100% sure that part of the problem is the printbedtemp. Prints are comming out great until the print jumps a ceratain hight the warping starts and after 1 cm it becomes hilarious. So I have to get a workaround if I ever want to use theese materials in a good way. So I am looking for a replacement of the existing printbedheater and or maybe to adapt an S3 printbed which would be already somewhat better with 130c° max heat Any idea that is feasible would be appreciated.. Greetings and stay save! Daniel

Still selling? I am sitting in Germany so if it is nearby, just let me know...

Hallo Christian, erstmal vielen Dank für deine vielen Ansätze. Also der Core ist neu. Daran kann es eigentlich nicht liegen, vor allem weil ich mit dem ja noch dieses Monsterteil heile gedruckt hatte. Was den Flow anbelangt, mache ich da (vor allem bei den PLA-Filamenten) eigentlich nur wenig herum. Das hatte ich nur mal bei dem Material von ColorFabb. Ich glaube das war XT-CF20, da musste ich den Flow erhöhen und das Ergebnis war dann auch gut. Der Lüfter sollte eigentilch auch noch klar sein. Ich höre Ihn auf jeden Fall noch tun. Wenn er zeitweilig ausfallen würde, dann könnte man das ja auf dem Temp-Diagram sehen, dass man auf dem Drucker einsehen kann. "Sofwarebedingt" hört sich natürlich gar nicht gut an und ich hoffe, das bekomme ich auch anders noch einmal hin. Eine kleine Winzigkeit wäre da aber noch zu erwähnen: Mein Drucker schafft es momentan nicht ein ordentliches Raft mit PVA zu drucken. Bei dem 3. Druck (er macht ein realtiv dichtes Raft) schiebt er das Filament an der Düsenspitze vor sich her und es kugelt sich ein. Das ist aber nicht immer so... Kann es sein das die Z-Achse einen weghat? Kann man das irgendwie testen? Ich denke, dass er die Abstände im Z-Bereich nicht mehr gut setzt und deswegen etweder mit der Düse zu tief hängt oder zu hoch... Automatisch kalibriere ich schon eine kleine Ewigkeit nicht mehr, auch weil die Ergebnisse daraus verherend waren. Er hatte auch vor 2 Jahren mal das Bedrüfnis mir sagen zu müssen, dass die beiden Cores zu unterschiedlich hoch sind. Das war nun aber wirklich ein Blödsinn. Ich habe dann die kapazitive Erkennungsplatte ausgetauscht und gut war. Das mit der Kalibrierung mache ich aber seitdem nur noch maunell und bisher hatte es auch bis auf einige wenige Male gut funktiniert... Da die Underextrusion bei bestimmten Layern erst kommt könnte ich mir vorstellen, dass die Z-Achse irgend ein Problem hat. Gibt es da Ansätze das herauszufinden? Gruß Daniel

Hi, ich versuche es jetzt das erste Mal mit dem deutschen Forum... Habe seit neuester Zeit ein Problem mit meinen Drucken. Ich habe vor ein paar Tage meinen "Airintake" meines PKW erneut gedruckt, weil die Vollpfosten von der Werkstatt den Schlauch samt dem Airintake abgebrochen hatten und musste feststellen, dass dem Druckkopf nach einer Weile komplett das Material versagte. Ich habe dann gedacht es liegt an den Einstellugnen und habe die Temperaturen angepasst und den Lüfter auch runtergeregelt (war vorher 20%). Selbes Ergebnis! Ich habe ein Foto gepostet.. Danach habe ich: 1. Beide Düsen gründlich gereinigt. 2. Neues Printbett (Glassscheibe mit etwas UHU) installiert. 3. die Feeder gründlich gereinigt (dachte die Feeder seien verschmutzt und würden das Material nicht mehr ordentlich nach vorne bringen). Danach habe ich das Filament getauscht. Es war zunächst ein Polyester-Filament, welches nur mit hohen Temperaturen gedruckt werden kann, drinnen und da ich bisher nicht so viel damit gedruckt habe, dachte ich es läge vielleiccht an der Umgebungstempereatur, die vielleicht zu niedrig sei (obwohl im Dachstuhl ja eher Backofentemperatur herrscht). Ich habe dann ein sehr einfach zu druckendes Material gewählt: ToughPla Die Druckdaten sind ja eh durch R-Fid gespeichtert und ich hatte auch noch nie wesentliche Probleme damit. Auf jeden Fall druckte es auch diesmal Problematisch: Sie die restlichen Fotos. Darauf ist klar zu erkennen, dass der Druck am Anfang mehr oder minder ok lief, aber dann zeitweilig das selbe Problem auftauchte, wie beim Polyester. Das Thema, was mich beschäftigt ist: WARUM ZEITWEILIG??? In der Mitte des Drucks ist sowenig Material verbaut, dass ich sogar durchschauen kann. Danach lief der Druck wieder normal. Deshalb die Frage an euch... was kann das sein? Vielleicht sollte ich noch erwähnen, dass ich einen Druckkopf von Solex-Everlast drinnenhabe. Aber der ist auch vom Düsendurchmesser 0,4mm stark. das sollte eingentlich keine Probleme geben. Getauscht hatte ich den vormals, da ich ein Material von Colorfabb gedruckt hatte, welches im Dunklen leuchtet. Das Ergebniss war sehr gut und das gedruckte Objekt auch relativ gro´ß. Aus diesem Grund denke ich nicht, dass es an der Düse liegt... Für Vorschläge wäre ich euch sehr dankbar. Gruß Daniel

Great Tomahawk_101, somehow I could not find it there... it only displayed the motor for the um3.. ( not the extd. version and there the cable for the ext. is too short).. Therefore the thread is closed. Greetings Daniel

Hi to all again.. Short question: As my ultimaker makes strange klicking noises in both stepper motors I don´´ t want to find out what happens if one gets blocked. So I want to change both (bearings and stepper motor). Trying to find a suitable replacement (original) I could not find anything for the UM3 Ext. So I made some research and came to this stepper-motor: https://www.amazon.de/STEPPERONLINE-Schrittmotor-Bipolar-42x60mm-DRUCKER/dp/B00PNEQUZ2/ref=pd_bxgy_2/257-8638925-5617602?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00PNEQUZ2&pd_rd_r=b842af7f-b5ea-4759-89ee-21af0862f3ad&pd_rd_w=2a5tH&pd_rd_wg=iVUNH&pf_rd_p=6aed2014-4dbf-49b4-8c75-10cdc6199eef&pf_rd_r=XDPA55BCP002PFXXDJX8&psc=1&refRID=XDPA55BCP002PFXXDJX8 Could this be a suitable replacement, or does it draw too much (or too low) energy (Ampere/Voltage) for the PCB-Board of the UM3. If not maybe someone does have a link to a stepper-motor that can be actually used for a replacement and would not be more week... --> please no hint´s to resellers as they would not sell anythin like this. I have tried it already.. They sell other parts but not this one. Greetings Daniel

Ok, now that we are all through x-mas and newyears time, party, headake and afterparty... ... I finally started to draw some basic sketches and make some prints. Now the hardware is there and I could take the measurements according to the hardware and that is what came out (see fotos). So now I have solved the hardware-problem (minus 1-2 issues --> The cover for the laser-tunnel is still missing but what the heck)... I then did some testing and the installation worked fine. The only thing is that I had to organize some different size screws as the old ones holding the extruders will become 3-4 mm too short... As of next month I will set me up a more comfortable way of programming my rasp (ordered a little touchscreen) and I will start to fool around with the programming software on it. So again I hope I do´n t have to do everthing by myself... therefore it would be great I someone could help me with the programming of the rasp in order to get the fotocell to work propperly in conjunktion with the Laser LED. I also researched the command for pausing the printer which can be executed directly from the programm over the rasp when the laser will hit the fotocell... ... will keep you updated on the project as it continues. Greetings Daniel

Great! Thanks again... You´ re a great teacher. Now I even know that... so instead of Compiling the whole program each time, running the .pyc-code is much easier for the interpreter to understand and thus saves time. I can even decompile those files back to the original scripts. That is wild! Understood the ID and KEY, log as well. Now I´ m starting to draw again because today I got myself a small touchscreen I want to implement ontop of my rasp... makes programming and testing the code later much easier.. Greetings Daniel

Yep, all worked out for me. Testing worked great and all of the scripts are doing just what they are supposed to do.. Thanks again for the forwarding. So I guess I close the subject for now. I wish to all of you that you will have a great christmas in the upcomming days and weeks and that all your wishes (for filaments and stuff YEAH) are going to come true... ;O) For myself I had a wish for a new kind of filament (Ultrafuse 316L from BASF) which I will test in January .. the only thing I have to figure out is the shrinkage of the printed objects to after the sintering-process. I was at the formnext one month ago and they tolkd me that the probably will make a software for it once there is enough demand for it.... would be great! And it gets better. Next year they´ ll bring out 2 new filaments based on the same process. On that goes where the PVC gets in. This in order to separate the fiament and make overhangs printable (ceramic based filament) and another Filament in the metall direction ---> Steel or even Titanium. That would make things available that were restricted to people that can afford a Markforged or similar printers... Nice things to come! So happy Christmas!!! Greetings Daniel PS: I saw that something is creating a file (I left it here for you as a .log-File). I had been part of a .py File. So I guess this is the Token that the Ultimker creates to allow the program (API) to be executed? Is this a "general-key" or does it create itself again every time at a new "handshake". If not, is it swapable to other PC´ s (e.G. the Rasp) to avoid the authorisation process with another PC? If you don´ t know it doesn´ t matter because the result is there anyhow... UM3_API.cpython-36.log

tinkergnome, you are my hero!!! Great job. You even thougt about adapting my IP-Adress. This just brings me so much further... So to say I will have to authorise the PC for once and then it will be executed without asking me that authoristaion again. GREAT! Once I advance with the Raspberry project. I will most certainly keep you uptdated. Just to be sure (I will test it tomorrow): So for example if I run a print and I want to pause it. I ´ ll go into the command mode (CMD) and I start the pausing python-file throughout python and it should first ask me to authorise this and then pause the printer. Is this right? Afterwards I could even implement an Icon, when I interlink it with that special command. I hope I got it right.. at least I could do this in Windows.. Because in the end I´ ll have to solve it as a selfexecuting version over Linux that keeps running in the rasp and executes the pausing just if the signal of my fotocell dropps below a certain value... but this I´ ll figure out once I hav the last device ready (still waiting on the laser-diode to drop in)... Greetings Daniel