kfsone
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Posts posted by kfsone
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Working on a print which includes some spike-like protrusions, after printing, these easily break off unless I spend a lot of time carefully crafting tapers at the base, and even then the top of the taper tends to act as a most-likely shearing point.
Further experimentation traces this down to the position of infill beneath the taper, e.g for this simple model:
With infill reduced to 10% for exaggerated effect, you can see that in the single-spike version, the infil is nicely centered under the spike, but if the spikes are nicely centered on the infil, you can see that the taper is basically an unsuspended, non-infil'd void.
I was thinking that what might help most here would be a bit of actual 3d shenaniganry, where instead of just sets of overlapping walls:
We could introduce a sort of z-hop tie off:
That is: It prints #1 and #2 as normal, it prints #3 but leaves a small gap, then it prints #4 as normal, but instead of starting #5, the 2nd-layer inner ring, it goes to the break, moves the head down half-a-layer, pushes material into the break in #3, then moves the head back to the layer 2 height. Move the head across xy to the start of the that 2nd layer middle ring, and start printing that ring.
leaving out everything but the inner ring of layer 1 and the middle ring of layer 2:
Although there would be no break between the link and the ring itself, the gap on the top layer here is just to distinguish the new movement.
Is this something that could be done generally by the slicer, or is this something that would need an addon?
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Left it for a couple of hours, it just sat there, and then SoCal Edison solved the problem for me. Came back ok.
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Just let my UM3 update its firmware to 5.3; saw it dl, saw it check, saw it take 2 minutes updating firmware, then it restarted itself, I saw the logo, screen went dark, dial lit up, flicked 3-4 times, and then went solid, and that was 40 minutes ago. Tried turning the dial, nothing happens.
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Ultimaker 3, latest firmware,
Cura 4.11,
.4mm nozzle,
Ultimaker Grey ABS, 225c / 65c,
Layer Height .3, Initial .27, width: .35 or .4,
Initial layer width: 100, 105, 110 and 120%
Walls 3,
Bottom layers 3,
Printing at 220c, I can't seem to get my bottom surface to print smoothly, but I'm not sure what the result is telling me. I'm getting great adhesion, and the top layer looks exactly the same when I don't iron it.
How can I make it look more like the top surface?
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Even with these changes, although I'm not good enough with a camera to show it, the walls are always very distinctive, because the top-surface has portions that defeat the effect of each possible pattern at potentially blending the skin/walls.
The closest I've gotten so far was after @kvnper mentioned Prusa slicer, using Archimedean spirals for ironing actually gets it pretty close.
And this still only solves the top surface.
Which brings me back to wanting to try and reduce walls (e.g to just 1) on the top and/or bottom surfaces. At least using monotonic lines gives it a vaguely "etchings" texture and, without the glaring wall contrast, that's not a terrible aesthetic. -
Concentric top/bottom, zig/zag top skin 72deg, concentric ironing,
vs
Concentric top/bottom, zig/zag top skin 72 deg, no ironing
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And corresponding first layers: printed this simultaneously on the same printer, so the differences are mostly just lighting effect here.
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13 hours ago, nallath said:
Well, you could set the top-bottom pattern to be concentric. Changing it to zig-zag might also get what you want.
Same UM3, same spool, only settings changed were top/bottom and initial layer patterns, and top surface skin pattern, all changed to concentric.
Top model: ironed (concentric, as per previous prints), bottom model: not ironed.
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Ironing only fixes that for the top surface, tho, the bottom surfaces still look like this:
(and with flash)
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7 hours ago, nallath said:
I don't understand what your issue is. The area that you circled just has ironing moves over the walls. If you don't want that, disable ironing.
The issue is the visually distinct difference between the walls and skin on the printed object, which I was trying to solve with ironing when I took the screenshot. The top surface is one single layer, so I expected it to look smooth and clean, but instead the walls form a visual border around the skin.
Printed on UM3 with Ultimaker ABS using default cura "Normal" profile with .3 layer height:
(*1 the little round blemish highlighted in yellow is where the print finished)
(*2 flash used for emphasis)
vs same model, same printer, same material, ironing, manual hackery of the gcode, but I forgot to enable monotonic surfaces.
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The addition of the monotonic feature really brought home to me how odd top/bottom surfaces end up looking because of the intrusion of walls into those surfaces. Consider the attached dolphin keyring.
The contrast between the wall lines and the skin lines is quite severe.
What I want is more like this:
(using walls = 0) but no wall at all can produce some ugliness at the edges.
This is only really noticeable when the top surface isn't a trivial square/circle, but when it's noticeable it really spoils the surface.
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At some point the 2nd print head got out of level, so low that even by the 3rd-4th layer the right core can't extrude anything. I've tried removing it and reseating it, no help. Tried reseating the other core. So I started running manual and automatic levels. 2nd head is still too low. I have the 1st (left) print core levelled beautifully, giving me the best first layers since I got the machine.
Am I missing something obvious?
-Oliver
-- Addendum
Today it keeps trying to autolevel with the 2nd/right print core lowered, causing it to fail. I remounted both cores, manually levelled fine, and now it's doing this: -
19 hours ago, geert_2 said:
This is indeed what I would expect to work, at least if you have 100% infill. If less than 100% infill, say 20%, then I could imagine that the slicer would generate a heavier structure below the letters, to support them.
I guess this will have to be answered by the developers, or people with a dual-nozzle machine and a better understanding of the slicing-internals.
I tried to match as many settings between extruders as I could (I have to tell you *that* is tedious, it takes so long to switch between setting lists, if dual extrusion becomes popular, people are going to flee cura faster than you can say "do you think this extruder's settings will load any time this week?")
In some of the previews it looked like the infill was aligned, but that could be coincidental 😞 -
@tinkergnome see my response a couple replies above, which has an example model pair. I tried messing with the per-model settings but there was nothing I found that produce settings equivalent to simply switching nozzles while rendering the parts of a the letters. I should note that unlike the simple X model, there's actually some other stuff on my original (a border, etc) that would preclude my simply changing nozzles at layer N 😞
Where do I find the "Merge Origins" option???
Lastly, I tried making the models not actually overlap and separated them by .1, .5, 1.0 and 1.1x layer height, all to no avail.
I've carefully made as many of the non-material settings the same across the two nozzles as I could, but no effect. -
Here's a trimmed down version of the two models.
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Turning off Remove Mesh Intersection entirely seems(*) to have fixed it (although, that seems backwards)
(It created a different problem: it tries to print layers for both models at the same time instead)
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That didn't fix it, but it did affect alternate mesh removal's impact:
But it still produces two surfaces where the letters meet:
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Even with the letters above the baseplate it generates surfaces between the two, that was what lead me to try recessing them. Hmm. Maybe I should recess them but not cut the recesses out of the baseplate.
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I have a model which is a 3mm thick square with raised letters above it. The idea was to print it using dual extrusion, so I made it two models, assigned each to an extruder, and grouped them. But when I look at the preview, it's burning a whole lot of time creating skins at the interface. How can I stop it doing this? (Pardon the colors, I gave up fighting cura on choosing what color non-ultimaker filaments are)
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11 hours into a print, a piece of the skirt separated from the build pate and got onto the top surface. I selected Pause so I could remove the debris, but it's not accepting Resume from the front button or from cura connect.
It's keeping the print bed at 85c but the print head has now cooled to ambient, and it continues to just sit there 😞
- Printing single Extruder with nGen, bed 85, ext 240,Only thing different about this and previous pauses is that I had manually adjusted the extruder 1 temperature -1 degrees.
Hour later: still no resume =( -
That's a tricky print, but a pleasing result, but btw the "Printing Guidelines" link just takes you to the product page now.
Question: Would this be a good candidate for the BB print core?
Also, it would be awesome to have a way to leverage the way these kinds of filament react to temperature variations to produce grain effects. You can do that with post-processing but that's just flat layer-by-layer and the end result is an mdf/plywood effect rather than grain.
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@Matioupi It's controlled by this, if you don't have it visible, search settings for it:
Infact, search for "horizontal expansion" to make sure you don't have the regular one set too.
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I've been noticing "random" behaviors. The other day I did something routine and it suddenly started unloading printcore 1. @gr5 told me there is an issue preventing printing the calibration chart because the printer over-retracts print core 2, but then support told me that he's wrong, the bug prevents anyone printing a calibration chart. Except, I've been able to print a calibration chart by doing nothing more than print->power cycle->print. I was able to print once and then it lost the calibration (even tho it has the settings). With active leveling set to manual, it will occasionally still do active leveling on me. There's just this long list of weird things the printer has been doing since the last firmware.
I know I could downgrade, but physical, forced, firmware kludges have bricked too many devices for me in the past, and I can get about 70-80% of the prints I want with single extrusion, and I haven't seen any kind of disclaimer that if I brick my printer following the firmware recovery instructions I won't be out of warranty...
@SandervG I'd rather than they put the old firmware up on the testing channel and let people choose to "up"-downgrade to it.
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My solution was just to reduce the first layer height and width. TPLAs inherent adhesion is good enough without needing to crush it against the plate. Also results in a more consistent glossy finish.
No curling, no elephants foot. The line width may not even need reducing but I found it made the gloss a little less shiny-polished, and for the piece I'm printing that was a better look.
The other thing you might consider: if you have one of the newer build plates, the side of the plate with the heat sticker on it has better adhesion. Flipping the build plate with give you slightly less adhesion, but again, TPLA is already good.
Stronger Spikes?
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
I guess another alternative would be to break the purely circular path of the inner walls periodically with spars.