Jump to content

Enigma_M4

Member
  • Posts

    395
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

Everything posted by Enigma_M4

  1. What about keeping the NFC sensor cable plugged in the printer, eventually taking the sensor out of the spoolholder and putting it somewhere near the printer, where it doesn't disturb?
  2. Using a clamp or not, I think the most important is proper working of the magnets, that hold the fan bracket close. If that's not the case, there's a good instruction video, provided by @fbrc8-erin: However it is achieved: preventing a head flood is preventing lots of frustration. Regards
  3. Playing the game WILL result in experience ๐Ÿ˜‰. I forgot to mention that my experience is made with an UM3, 0.4mm nozzle, so the gap value may vary for other printers / nozzle sizes / materials. A higher gap value for PETG may result in what I experienced with PLA, but I wasnt brave enough going above 0.3 at all (It's just trial and error and achieving a big learning curve while playing the game ๐Ÿ˜‰).
  4. Hi, the brim gap was the most useful enhancement of the last cura versions. My first test after availability was printing a comb (PLA), using a 0.2mm gap. It printed perfect and the brim just separated while removing the print from the build plate, resulting in the cleanest first layer I ever got (no elefant foot). Printing with CPE (PETG), a 0.3mm gap results in a very well adhering brim, which can be removed nearly perfect, just bending up and down. Many thanks to all who were involved in the implementation of this great feature. Regards
  5. Hi, I can't help with your problem, but the attached files (STLs) don't help finding the issue. It would be good if you post the gcode file that works and a gcode file, that doesn't print, and perhaps the corresponding cura project files. These are the informations, the gcode-cracks in this forum normally need ๐Ÿ˜‰. Regards
  6. The tweeks and options in the "custom" section are overwhelming. Sometimes it's easier to start with the "Recommended" section and -if the "intent profiles" are available, as for the S-series, choose the spot that matches the desired result. https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/30191-ultimaker-cura-44-released-with-new-intent-profiles/ Regards
  7. Hi, try the Engineering profile in Cura (should be available for the S3). They are optimized for accuracy. Regards
  8. Hi, like @MadHatter mentioned, checking the 14mm-gap is the first thing that should be done at the "offset error" - if the diagnosis of the capacitive sensor is positive. The two most helpful things for this are in my oppinion: 1. this youtube-video, provided by @fbrc8-erin: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2VFp6AqoMg 2. this small tool, provided by @IRobertI: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um3-buildplate-distance-tool (unfortunately, only works with UM3, not with S5 or S3) Regards
  9. Hi, if possible, you should run the limit switch diagnostics (system -> maintenance -> diagnostics -> limit switches (or similar, my UM3 is not set to English) ). There should be listet the limit switches x, y and z with boxes and an "x" inside for each activated switch. If you put your printhead out of the way and manually activate the limit switch, the "x" should appear at klick pressed and disappear when the switch is released. If this is the case, the switch and cabling are ok, only the metallic lever is bent or the switch isn't mounted properly. If the diagnosis fails, either the switch itself is broken (unusual if it klicks) or the cable to the mainboard is interrupted somewhere or just unplugged. Regards
  10. Hi, as mentioned above and concluded from your infos, they definitely are different than 3M. The thickness of 0,06mm is neglible to every calibration tolerance, and they don't get cratered by the nozzles via active levelling. As @Tomahawk_101 mentioned: I for myself just print either on bare glass (with no glue, spray or something else) or, when there is a risk to chipp the glass or there's tendency to warping, UM adhesion sheets. Of course printing on bare glass is more comfortable, while removing a print from a new or barely used adhesion sheet can be a real "pain in the a**". Regards
  11. Hi, there seems to be some confusion in software and codes that should be solved first: We have to differ between: firmware. This is the operating system of your printer. In the case of Ender3 it's Marlin, as @Mari just posted. gcode. This is the set of instructions, your printer uses to print. Depending on the firmware of your printer, the "flavor" of gcode can vary. slicing software (for example Cura). This is the program, which translates an object (mostly .stl) into gcode. In the settings of Cura, all informations about printer, printer size and gcode-flavor (marlin or other) have to be made. Cura is THE user-interface used for printing (or technically: generating the gcode, the instruction set for your printer) object. this is the 3d model (mostly .stl) you want to print. This is translated by the slicer (Cura) into gcode. 3d software / CAD software. This is used to generate 3d models Regards
  12. Hi Xeddog, try reducing "Support Horizontal Expansion" to 1mm or even 0mm. This should result in support only inside the gaps (cable tie slots?) and screw holes. Regards
  13. Hi, one -possibly stupid- question: are all of your frame-screws tight? They sometimes get lose by vibrations and seldom get payed attention. Regards
  14. This would be a good suggestion, if the engineering profiles were available for the UM3. That's very sad to hear, despite the principle "never change a running system". Regards
  15. That's right. Or, in other words: "no risk, no fun" ๐Ÿ™‚
  16. Hi, it's me again. The printcores for the UM3 and the S-series are designed to be replaced as a whole. The 3D Solex hardcores are designed with replaceable nozzles. As you've already seen @gr5's video, it *might* be possible to change the nozzles, but not without big risk in cracking the heatbreak. Ther'e some topics about nozzle change, for example (unfortunately only in German): https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/33097-anbieter-ersatzdรผsen-ultimaker-s3/ or https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/30545-verstopfte-print-cores/ with links to replacement nozzles, which are meant to be compatible with the UM Printcores. ( https://www.3djake.de/3d-drucker-ersatzteile/3d-drucker-duesen?&f%5B65%5D=589 and https://www.filamentworld.de/shop/zubehoer/duesen-nozzles/micro-swiss-duese-twinclad-xt-ultimaker3-ultimaker-s5/ ). But there's no guarantee it'll work. Regards
  17. One additional note: the UM adhesion sheets have a thickness of about 0.06mm. Using them on the backside of the glass works perfect. With 0.3mm 3M sheets, it's at least worth a try, but I don't know if they're slim enough. Regards
  18. Hi Tigerbeard, Well, @Smithy reacted faster, so just some aditional thoughts: As I conclude from your other post, you're using UM adhesion sheets. They won't be damaged by the active levelling procedure. The little "craters" could be just small print material residue. I use adhesion sheets mainly for printing ABS and if printing on bare glass doesn't adhere enough, and in my experience, removing a print stresses (and damages) the sheets more than the small probing points, and the adhesion sheets are so thin that there is no false levelling. One tip at last: I put my adhesion sheets at the backside of the glass ("non-sticker" side) and just selecting adhesion sheet or bare glass by turning the glass plate around. Regards
  19. That's an interesting point and I agree. But the calibration sheet would make the procedure more comfortable and possibly reduce errors. But for adhesion sheet users (like me) your suggestion is absolutely useful. Thanks.
  20. Hi Tigerbeard, you seem to have solved two of your questions yourself: 2. The calibration card can be replached with a sheet of 80g copy paper, or a business card, if lost. It's (or was?) mentioned somewhere in the UM3 documentations. 3. After levelling the print bed for core 1 with the thumb screws (note to not apply pressure on the screws while adjusting; adjust the screw that's directly under the printhead), the adjustment of the Z - OFFSET for core 2 is only done with the front wheel; keep your hands off the thumb screws after levelling core 1! Now to the open question 1: print the PDF with "real size" or "original size" (I don't know the exact naming, as my PDF reader is set to German). Regards
  21. That's good news! So at least your NFC reader and the material database proof working ๐Ÿ™‚. Could your other spools have been exposed to a strong magnetic field or so, which could have damaged the data on the NFC tags? One or two defective NFC tags may happen, but you've counted 5+ and this would be a very strange co-incidence (would be worth buying a lottery ticket ๐Ÿ˜‰). Regards
  22. Hallo Trainmen, das ist das ganz normale Verhalten beim Brรผckenbauen (oder neudeutsch: bridging). Um eine mehr oder weniger lange Strecke ohne Stรผtzmaterial (Brรผcke) zu drucken, wird zunรคchst eine (manchmal auch mehrere) Lage an Filamentstrรคngen gedruckt, die dann als Basis fรผr die gewohnten diagonalen Linien dient. Je nach Material, Drucker, Druckeinstellungen (und natรผrlich Brรผckenlรคnge) kann die unterste Brรผckenschicht auch mehr oder weniger durchhรคngen. Umgehen lรครŸt sich das -meines Wissens- nur mit Stรผtzstruktur. GrรผรŸe
  23. That would have been my answer too, if the problem was only the preview simulation. But as @Tru7h wrote: there must be another issue. But unfortunately, I can't imagine what's going wrong here. Regards
  24. Hi, there must be a "move filament" function, but don't ask me where it is placed at the S3. On UM3, it is placed in the material/print core menu, nearby the load and unload command. The quick and dirty solution to transport the partly retracted material back to the print core is also: open feeder-lever, push filament manually until it stops, close feeder-lever. Regards
×
×
  • Create New...