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Everything posted by johnse

  1. I could be wrong, but I think you need some flex in the springs rather than being tightened all the way.
  2. I’m sorry, but I have never worked with PETG. You might find better answers on forums dedicated to your printer. Try searching for “monoprice malyan mini forums”. There seem to be several. Add PETG to the search and you may get direct answers like this one from Reddit:
  3. According to Monoprice’s site: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=33012 All Metal Hotend: The all metal hotend is capable of superior performance and prevents wear and tear, while the heat brake design allows for efficient dissipation of heat. From what I can see, the v1 and v2 did not. Monoprice does not make printers. They rebadge printers made by others. In this case, it’s a Malyan M200 v3 http://malyansys.com/product/m200-v3/
  4. Sketchup is also known for creating objects with “internal geometry” that messes with slicing. if, for example, the side walls overlap with the bottom, it can cause something like that result. The slicer sees the outer wall surface and starts considering that “inside”. It then sees the inner wall of the sidewall that overlaps the bottom and thinks it has found the transition to outside. then it finds the circle that should have been the real edge and toggles again to “inside”. It looks like you want to use Sketchup’s “Outer Shell” command as per this article: https://help.sketchup.com/en/sketchup/modeling-complex-3d-shapes-solid-tools
  5. This sounds to me like the heat break is not working. Perhaps the hot-end cooling fan (not the part-cooling fan) is not running or is blocked somehow?
  6. I wonder if print core 2, the one on the right is sticking? Try manually moving the head switch lever and see if the core moves up and down smoothly.
  7. The bottom needs support...but that is supplied by the build plate. the 3D design is represented by a mesh of infinitely thin triangles that describe the surface of object. If you zoom into the mesh of the sphere, you will get to a point where rect triangle is a flat surface, or “face”. Associated with that triangle is a “normal” vector that is perpendicular to the face. But does that normal point outward or inward? Properly described (by convention) the normals point outward. Cura uses the normals for its display (the slicer doesn’t care and uses a different mechanism). If the face normals point downward by a steep angle, it colors red as a hint. If the sphere normals point inward, the ones on the top faces are pointing down...thus why Cura colors it red.
  8. You do realize that Windows XP is becoming a security risk when connected to the internet since Microsoft is no longer providing security patches?
  9. I've been happily printing with my UM3 for quite a while. One quirk of Cura seems to be that if the printer is not on when I start Cura, Cura will never see that it is online. I have to close Cura and restart it for the UM3 to show as online. That has been a constant until today. Today, no matter how many times I restarted Cura, it would not acknowledge that the printer was online. This started with Cura 4.1. I then installed Cura 4.2.1 to find the same behavior. I pinged the printer and it responded as expected. Following the Network Troubleshooter, I removed the printer. I then tried to re-add it and it was not discovered on the network. I was able to manually add it by IP address. The initial problem of not seeing the printer was happening before I rebooted to complete installation of Windows Update: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/4512508/windows-10-update-kb4512508. It is possible that the update had left the computer in a wonky state until the reboot. I'm in a working state now, so this is more of a heads-up to the developers...and also a query if anyone else has had the first issue of only seeing the printer if Cura is started while the printer is on (I.e. start Cura with printer off, then turn printer on, Cura will not recognize this fact.)O
  10. It seems that heat and age can cause this, and that some batches may be more prone to it. Just a little background on LEDs https://www.digikey.com/en/articles/techzone/2011/aug/whiter-brighter-leds also, a couple of threads with similar issues: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/782977-cablemod-white-led-strip-turning-yellow/
  11. Sorry, I don’t have any direct knowledge about the APIs, nor have I ever used PHP or Laravel.
  12. I think all you need to do is give curl the key/password. On a command line curl, you would use the -u option, as in “curl -u key:password”. I found this Stackoverflow question: https://stackoverflow.com/questions/38330137/http-basic-authentication-using-laravel-curl-library So you should be able to use: withOption(USERPWD, ‘key:password’)
  13. What layer thickness are you printing this with? From what I have read elsewhere, using a single wall to calibrate flow rate is not a good measure. To check for proper calibration, print a calibration cube with infill and measure the resulting cube. AFAIK, to check for proper flow and bonding with a single wall, you want to focus on the finish of the surface and layer bond strength of a spiralized cylinder.
  14. If you are forwarding gcode files from a web portal, you can certainly prepend information to the files you send (look first if it has the info already).
  15. By saying you want to print gcode from any website, you are implying you want your printer naked on the internet. Please don’t do this. Like many IoT devices, these printers have zero security. They ship with all known accounts and passwords. if you want to be able to send a gcode file from your web site to your printer, you will need to write a custom web service either hosted by a server on your network (with proper security) or with a VPN between the hosting server and your network. Then you can use the UM3 http API to transfer the file from your web service to the printer. Getting this working correctly and securely is not a trivial task. It might be possible to directly use the http API directly from an external server by using port forwarding on your router/firewall, but I would not recommend that as I doubt the http server in the printer is actually hardened against web exploits. In no case should it be necessary to use the dev mode to do what you want.
  16. @ksor, it sounds to me like there may be other things going on... perhaps we we can try to isolate things by using a different program to see If it can talk to your printer. There is a simple control program called pronterface. It comes in a package called PrintRun. The github repo is at https://github.com/kliment/Printrun and there are links on that page to prebuilt versions you can just download & run. See if you can control the printer from pronterface. If so, that will validate the USB communications.
  17. johnse

    Ultimaker Nylon

    As with most filaments, holes tend to be roughly 0.4 mm too small (printing with a 0.4 nozzle). Otherwise, I haven’t had much problem. What kind of features are off, and by how much?
  18. I have a perhaps unusual situation, but it may provide another clue. I’m running a Surface Book v2 that has a detachable screen that can be used as a tablet. The screen houses the Core i7 CPU with onboard Intel UHD Graphics 620 GPU. The keyboard contains a discrete Nvidia GTX1060 GPU. Sometimes the CPU apparently stops talking to the Nvidia GPU. At these times, device manage shows only the Intel GPU. Either rebooting or detaching and reattaching the screen will re-enable the Nvidia GPU. When the Nvidia GPU is active, Cura runs fine. When it’s in the failed state, Cura won’t launch. So far I have 100% correlation. I have never had to run in compatibility mode or as administrator. EDIT: I have also confirmed that attempting to launch Cura while in tablet mode fails. It seems that many of those with problems are using default Intel graphics...perhaps the is an incompatibility with that family of GPU?
  19. Try setting your line width to 0.399 and see how that slices.
  20. I don’t know about the UMO+ specifically, but I believe this is a lower limit set in the printer’s firmware. It helps prevent gouging the filament by the extruder gear slice 170 is too cool to extrude well. I couldn’t tell from your question, what temperature are you trying to print at? In what range of temperatures does it work? In what range does it not work?
  21. Hi @noodler11, welcome to the world of 3D printing! I am responding to this on a tablet so I am basing this on your text description. When you create a model in CAD like a cube with a tube through it, the model created has an “inside” and “outside”. The boundary between inside and outside is described by the mesh of triangles in the STL file. What you think of as the open inside of the tube is part of the “outside” as far as the model is considered. This is often accomplished by subtracting one shape from another, or performing an extruded cut. Cura treats the surface of the mesh as the “skin” of the model. The skin is referred to in the settings a number of ways depending on orientation, but includes walls (vertical) and the top & bottom layers (horizontal). The settings referencing “skin” specifically affect the outer loop of a wall (or the inside loop of a hole—i.e. the loop with plastic on one side and air on the other). What this means is that it is not necessary in most cases to have different infill settings to describe a void. This works even with completely enclosed voids. Imagine a 30mm cube with a 10mm cube void in the center. If you look at the cross section of the middle, you would have a 10mm thick wall surrounding a 10mm space. For this example, I’m using a 0.5 mm line width to make the numbers easy. The typical settings have walls 3 lines wide. So the outermost 1.5mm is considered “wall”—with the outermost 0.5 of that considered “skin”. The next 7mm are infill. And then there are 3 more lines (1.5 mm) of wall to define the hole. The settings for infill only apply to the 7mm section. When you “slice” a model in Cura, it analyzes horizontal cross sections separated by the thickness of the layer and then figures out what parts of that 2d layer is skin, other walls, infill, etc. It also takes into account the layers below for figuring out things like bridging and overhangs. After a slice is complete, you can examine each of the layers in the preview mode using the vertical slider at the right of the screen. The last example to which you referred is an unusual situation.
  22. I don’t know how to set it up, but I can relate my experience. With an UM3, when Cura connects, it reads the current material config from the printer. So I will have, for example, Green ToughPLA on #1 and White Breakaway on #2. All of the material settings are correctly set. I *think* you can click on extruder 2 in the top bar and select the material for that extruder.
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