johnse

I'm suggesting using a raft as the support buffer. But if you really just want to raise the model, look in Preferences. There is a setting "Automatically drop models to the build plate" that is enabled by default.

Are you printing with a single material? Or with a dual extruder with the support being the 2nd material? If I slice it for dual printing, it produces support for the lower part of the fillet. If I slice for single material, it shows the brim going right up to the base, but then there is a gap before the support of the central area. This is because of the x/y offset from edges. The typical settings for support are for overhangs that are more than a 60° angle from vertical. Your fillet would only want support for 1-2 layers before the angle is less than that. Support also leaves a little space between the top of support and the bottom of the thing being supported so that it is easier to remove the support. Thus, there's not really room to print any support other than the brim. If you dial the support angle to an absurdly low number, like 10°, then it will show a small amount of support.

Try taking a look at Raft settings: Select "Raft" under Build Plate Adhesion Type "raft" into the settings search, this will bring up all the settings that have "raft" in the name.

I’m not at a computer with Cura right now, but you can tell Cura which extruder to use for each model. I *think* it is on the right-click context menu.

@Kakos my understanding of what you are trying to do is make a vase with, say, 2 or 3 walls, and that the prior way you did that was to model, for example, a 5mm wall but then print with zero infil causing the wall to be hollow. But that also means the wall would grow to 10mm thick if you doubled the size of the vase. Hopefully I got that right. Another way to consider is: design the vase as a solid form. Not modeling the inside surface...only the outside. slice it with 0% infill, 2 walls, however many layers (or thickness) you want for the bottom, and 0 top layers. This will print exactly 2 walls, well bonded, a bottom, and no top. It also means that even with a complex wall shape, every slice will have exactly the number of walls you specify. The “Shell” command in Fusion 360 (don’t know what it’s called in other programs) is often used to creat constant thickness walls for this kind of model, but it creates a model where the distance is constant along the normals of each oint on the surface. A simple mold, for example, with a 10 degree slope and a shell 1.6mm thick produces a thickness in the slicing planes slightly less than 1.6mm...1.576mm. This can cause it to slice with, for example 3 walls instead of 4, and then try to fill the gap as infil.

I had to hunt for it initially. select the object you want to orient. choose the rotation tool on the left column of buttons. theres now a 3rd option on the rotation tool. Click the rightmost button. Notice the rotation tool circles disappear from around the part. click on the face you want on the build plate

@BiMNrd the skirt lets you visually confirm that your bed is level and that a good initial layer is being laid down. If the skirt looks much thinner on one area, that is a good indication the bed is too high (too close to nozzle) in that area

System->Build Plate->Active leveling. https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/23127-build-plate-leveling

I forget where in the UI it is, but there is an option, set by default, to drop the model to the bed. you could, though, just select “raft” from the adhesion setting, and set the raft to print with the PVA extruder. Ah, @ahoeben beat me to it 😊

The slicer computes the feed rate based on the speed the print head is moving, the height and thickness of the lines, etc. as for the printing speed, in mm/sec, that depends very much on the filament, the printer, how hot the nozzle is and other factors. On many printers and many filaments, 30-70 mm/sec is pretty normal. The first layer is often done at about half speed.

When printing via USB that way, @P3D is correct. Also, be sure to set the PC to never go to sleep. if you want to not be tethered like that, you can get a Raspberry Pi and install Octopi, the Octoprint version built for the Pi. This runs as a 3D Print server and there is a Cura plug-in to let you print directly to it via the network. When I set mine up, I didn’t have luck connecting it via hardwired Ethernet, but it worked fine using WiFi with a little USB WiFi dongle.

Previous discussion of flow sensor issues. One user fixed by moving spools: And @CarloK from Ultimaker replied with some explanation:

Something doesn’t seem to add up here. What is your layer height? Normally you specify only one of thickness or number of layers for top/bottom. If your numbers are accurate, then it would seem your layer height would be 0.5 mm. What nozzle side are you printing with? Anyway, if those numbers are accurate, the bottom would likely print its full 2mm and then it might add one top layer for an overall height of 2.5mm.

For support blockers: select the part to which blocker should apply select the blocker item on the left side click on selected part somewhere close to where you want blocker. This inserts a grey transparent cube. Select the cube Switch to sizing. I find it useful to uncheck the keep proportional. Use handles to stretch block to contain areas you don’t want support. For example, the entire height of a thin column. position (and I assume rotation-though I’ve not tried that) should work similarly. The spreading of support through walls is caused by “Support Horizontal Expansion” defaults to 2mm. i don’t have an S5, but I read on here that at least in some cases where the sensors didn’t work it was because the user placed filament reels in a different location, like a drybox or a reel holder to the side. The sensors are apparently tuned to expect filament to be entering the feeder from the central spool holder. Some found by crossing side-mounted filaments, so one from the right side entered the left feeder and vise versa made it work better.

How detailed is the source model? Excessive detail can cause a large number of tiny moves that can result in uneven extrusion. You might try decimating the source model to use fewer triangles.

Some things that might help: * Sometimes, in addition to the prime blob, it will print a second skirt in Breakaway. This nicely deals with the stretched line from the blob to the print. I really wish I knew what setting caused this second skirt...I’d enable it all the time. * in lieu of the above, try positioning your model—or a model—such that a first layer area of support is closest to the prime blob. This can minimize the effect of that blob string getting embedded in actual part. * failing thin towers, often outside the model caused by internal support too close to the edge, can cause lots of debris. Once a piece breaks, the rest of the layers for that section print on air and cause lots of curly chaff to be blown around. Try decreasing Support Horizontal Expansion ( downside is this may make intentional towers less stable) or place support blockers sized to eliminate these unwanted expansions. An example of the latter can be seen in this post to which no-one responded.

I had to ask when it happened to me, too. 🙂

I’ve used Microsoft 3D Build (comes with Windows 10) to slice pieces of models before. Ive seen others mention Mesh Mixer...

I had this happen on my UM3. The switch on the side of the head was rubbing against the black bracket that connects the x-axis rod to the belts. you just need to run the calibration routine for this. https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/39666-lift-switch-calibration

It is possible that the temperature being reported may be different from your previous hot end. Did the new one come with a different temp sensor? Is it positioned differently? Is it compatible? I was upgrading a Monoprice Ultimate for flexible printing and the Flexion extruder came with a heater block that did not have a thru hole for the PT100 sensor. I tried using another thermistor (and updating Marlin for it) but it never read properly and the hotend would get WAY to hot. I wound up getting a different heater block and using the original sensor. (Apparently PT100s need a different input circuit.) Someone else here has a printer that reads 50C too low so prints at an indicated 160C. He had to put a code in his start gcode to allow “cold extrusion”. So try printing a temperature tower and try some lower temps.

I think what this means is you are printing too fast. The geometry changes in that area such that there are more walls, causing a greater average quantity of filament needing to be melted and pushed out. In the other layers you’re probably right at the edge of what your extruder and hot end can deliver. When you get to the more complex area, it just can’t keep up. At least, that’s my guess.

I print PLA directly on glass on my UM3. I also clean the glass with 90% Isopropyl Alcohol and a paper towel before every print. I also use auto-leveling every print. If I’m doing a large print, or a tall narrow print I’ll use a brim. when I print Nylon, that’s when the glue stick comes out 😊 Also... it’s a little hard to tell from your picture, but it looks like your glass plate is upside down. The sticker should be on the top surface.

Have you printed abrasive filament at all? Carbon fiber, even glow-in-the-dark? if so, it may have worn your feed gear. otherwise, be sure the feed gear teeth do not have ground plastic filling them.

I think where choice of units really matter is in the design software...something I think is already the case.

There is a free tool at service.netfabb.con that can fix many such problems. It requires an account and login, but is free.