johnse

Good luck. You might have better luck using the model in Fusion 360 more as a guide to rebuilding it as a solid model design there. Sort of the 3D equivalent of onion paper tracings in 2D artwork.

Just looking at your pictures, it is clear there are problems with the model. At a minimum, the normals are wrong—that’s why all the red is displayed. I suspect there is also internal geometry which probably is why the field gets covered. try searching the the web for “decimate STL file” Also see this thread for some suggestions on fixing files:

Not WD40! On the z axis screw, use magnalube. on guide rods, use light machine oil—like sewing machine oil. WD-40 is not primary a lubricant. WD stands for Water Displacement. It does have a light lubricant as a carrier.

I think the reason it happened in specific places was that you were right at the edge of what your printer could do and your model geometry probably kept the average actual speeds low enough that the flow could keep up, but in those few spots it had a long enough, fast enough stretch to use up the melted material and the flow couldn’t keep up. I imagine that if you used those settings to print a large cube you’d see a lot more areas of under-extrusion.

On Windows, I just use the mouse...but you need a mouse with a scroll wheel...not a trackpad. Scroll wheel zooms in and out. Middle button (press scroll wheel) drag to move the stage left, right, up, down. Right button drag to orbit around the stage.

I don’t think this is Cura’s fault. If you were to examine the gcode, you would likely find it directed the correct moves. i suspect, and this is pure speculation, that during the printing of the first object your z-axis slipped a few steps. Then on the move back to the first layer, it didn’t miss those steps and thus travelled further down than it did going up on the first print. I would clean and lubricate the Z axis and run some calibration tests.

I completely agree!

You don’t mention what printer you have, nor did you label in the listing the demarcation between Cura-generated gcode and your start code. However, I suspect this has more to to with a change to you printer’s firmware than Cura since it is your printer that executes the gcode.

I don’t have any experience with S3D. From your tower, I’d suggest boosting temp to 190 for better layer adhesion. I would also not use so much overextrusion. Have you tried Cura?

The "Join Community" link is still available in the footer of the page.

Quite likely. This probably means your printer does not have access to the internet and thus hasn’t been able to reach a time server. This thread has a couple of pointers on how to set the time. The simplest is probably to connect to the printer with Cura and Cura will set the time. Good to know 🙂 Got to keep the fingerprints intact!

I could be wrong, but I think you need some flex in the springs rather than being tightened all the way.

Some pictures would be helpful

I’m sorry, but I have never worked with PETG. You might find better answers on forums dedicated to your printer. Try searching for “monoprice malyan mini forums”. There seem to be several. Add PETG to the search and you may get direct answers like this one from Reddit:

According to Monoprice’s site: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=33012 All Metal Hotend: The all metal hotend is capable of superior performance and prevents wear and tear, while the heat brake design allows for efficient dissipation of heat. From what I can see, the v1 and v2 did not. Monoprice does not make printers. They rebadge printers made by others. In this case, it’s a Malyan M200 v3 http://malyansys.com/product/m200-v3/

From what I can find online, the V3 already has an all-metal hot end.

Sketchup is also known for creating objects with “internal geometry” that messes with slicing. if, for example, the side walls overlap with the bottom, it can cause something like that result. The slicer sees the outer wall surface and starts considering that “inside”. It then sees the inner wall of the sidewall that overlaps the bottom and thinks it has found the transition to outside. then it finds the circle that should have been the real edge and toggles again to “inside”. It looks like you want to use Sketchup’s “Outer Shell” command as per this article: https://help.sketchup.com/en/sketchup/modeling-complex-3d-shapes-solid-tools

This sounds to me like the heat break is not working. Perhaps the hot-end cooling fan (not the part-cooling fan) is not running or is blocked somehow?

I wonder if print core 2, the one on the right is sticking? Try manually moving the head switch lever and see if the core moves up and down smoothly.

The bottom needs support...but that is supplied by the build plate. the 3D design is represented by a mesh of infinitely thin triangles that describe the surface of object. If you zoom into the mesh of the sphere, you will get to a point where rect triangle is a flat surface, or “face”. Associated with that triangle is a “normal” vector that is perpendicular to the face. But does that normal point outward or inward? Properly described (by convention) the normals point outward. Cura uses the normals for its display (the slicer doesn’t care and uses a different mechanism). If the face normals point downward by a steep angle, it colors red as a hint. If the sphere normals point inward, the ones on the top faces are pointing down...thus why Cura colors it red.

You do realize that Windows XP is becoming a security risk when connected to the internet since Microsoft is no longer providing security patches?

I've been happily printing with my UM3 for quite a while. One quirk of Cura seems to be that if the printer is not on when I start Cura, Cura will never see that it is online. I have to close Cura and restart it for the UM3 to show as online. That has been a constant until today. Today, no matter how many times I restarted Cura, it would not acknowledge that the printer was online. This started with Cura 4.1. I then installed Cura 4.2.1 to find the same behavior. I pinged the printer and it responded as expected. Following the Network Troubleshooter, I removed the printer. I then tried to re-add it and it was not discovered on the network. I was able to manually add it by IP address. The initial problem of not seeing the printer was happening before I rebooted to complete installation of Windows Update: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/4512508/windows-10-update-kb4512508. It is possible that the update had left the computer in a wonky state until the reboot. I'm in a working state now, so this is more of a heads-up to the developers...and also a query if anyone else has had the first issue of only seeing the printer if Cura is started while the printer is on (I.e. start Cura with printer off, then turn printer on, Cura will not recognize this fact.)O

It seems that heat and age can cause this, and that some batches may be more prone to it. Just a little background on LEDs https://www.digikey.com/en/articles/techzone/2011/aug/whiter-brighter-leds also, a couple of threads with similar issues: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/782977-cablemod-white-led-strip-turning-yellow/

Sorry, I don’t have any direct knowledge about the APIs, nor have I ever used PHP or Laravel.

I saw it on a video...but don’t have a link, sorry.