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  1. Hi Peter, No, I did not expect miracles. It was not my first printer and I have an engineering background. It is just frustration speaking after now 4 attempts. I try to solve firstly my selves, before trying to get a replacement. If this last try is again not successful, I will have to replace the heated bed. Greetings, Ron
  2. Hi Peter, Thanks for sharing your experience. I take this opportunity to follow up with my latest information. After my original fix, things worked for maybe a week, and then the problem returned. I took the heated bed apart again and soldered the wires directly to the connectors instead of using the crimped wire ends. Again things worked for a while, and again the problem came back. Extremely frustrating. The problem was that it happened in a long print overnight. The print came loose and In the mean time all the PLA was in and around both print heads. It took half a day to get everything cleaned up so everything worked again. Now I added small wires from the connector to the PT100, under the assumption that it must be the wires in the bed to the sensor. I measured the resistance at the other end of the cable, and everything seemed OK. Wiggling the wires did not change the resistance at all. However, the story repeated itself. A few days OK and again problems. At last I found out that one wire was not soldered with all the strands to the connector. Due to the large heat sink of the aluminum, soldering is not easy. I re-soldered and reassembled it all. I got a lot of experience by now. That was a week ago, and I hope the issue is now really resolved. When the printer is working I really love it. Very accurate, nice prints, fast. Great. But I start to HATE it when it does not do what it is supposed to do.
  3. Hi CarloK, You were SO right!! It WAS just a coincidence!! When I took the build plate apart before, I just measured the temperature sensor. However when I now wiggled the cable at the rear of the build plate the temperature indication jumped all over the place. It turned out to be a bad crimp on the connector of one of the sensor wires. I re-crimped them both and let some solder wick in the crimp connector from the end. Now the temperature is stable. So _ NOTHING TO DO WITH THE SOFTWARE UPGRADE. It was just a coincidence that it happened at exactly the same time. Again thanks for the tips. Ron
  4. Another test result. I dismounted the build plate and measured the temperature sensor PT100. The resistance was exactly correct, so no problems there. All wires wire fixed, no loose connections or anything. After re-mounting I set the build plate temperature manually. It indicated an actual temperature of 23 degrees, which was correct. I set it to 60 degrees and allowed the build plate to heat up. I measured the temperature with an infrared thermometer and it varied between 57 and 53 degrees, but it was still creeping higher. My conclusion: No hardware problem at all. Now I tried to print, and the old problem re-occurred. After a short while, the "Max Temp error" on the build plate happened again. So everything points to a firmware bug, occurring when you try to print. I do not understand why you can set manually the temperature correctly, but as soon as it comes from a print command thing go awry. Again, does anyone have an idea how to get back the old firmware??? Ron
  5. As a follow-up to my previous post. I got the WIFI working again by "CURA Connect reset". After that I could setup the network again. I tried to set the build plate temperature manually. The indicated temperatures were very erratic. Within 5 seconds it went from 25 to 60 degrees. The build plate just luke warm. After a short while, the indicated temperature dropped to 37 degrees and started to gradually climb as the heat plate warmed up. The plate stabilised at 60 degrees, and at the touch it could be the correct temperature. Now I tried to print. The brim came loose at 3 of the 4 sides as the build plate cooled off. Next try was to print with the build plate setting at 68 degrees. Result: "Max temp error on the build plate. Go to ultimaker.com/ER14" No way to get out of this error. Switch off and on again just comes back to this screen. The temperature of the plate is no more than 25 degrees by the way. I waited 10 minutes and switched on again. The screen shows "Print failed. remove the print...." and indicates a build pate temperature of 105 degrees and falling. Something amiss with the firmware or (just at the same time as the firmware update) something wrong with the build plate temperature sensor??? Firmware installed:5.2.8 20190320. Hardware type ID: 9066
  6. I own an Ultimaker 3 printer and I was VERY happy with it until I updated the firmware to version 5.2.8. Since then, the indicated temperature of the build plate jumps immediately from 20 degrees to 60 degrees, and - of course, the build plate does not heat up anymore. I tried a factory reset. An additional problem popped up. I can no longer connect to my WIFI network. After the reset I tried to set the build plate temperature manually, and that worked! Now I tried to print something via the USB (remember no WIFI..) and again the build plate did not heat up and the system started immediately to heat the print cores. I went to the manual build plate setting and the temperature indicated 60 degrees. PLEASE does anyone know how to get back to a previous firmware? Remember no WIFI and -as far as I understood- in SW 5.2.8 no update via USB. PLEASE HELP Ron
  7. RonBreukers


    SOFTWARE BUGS IN 5.2.8??? I own an Ultimaker3 and was very happy with it until I did the day before yesterday the software update to version 5.2.8 Since then, the measured temperature of the build plate jumps at once to 60 degrees and (of course) the build plate does not heat up anymore. I tried a factory reset, and the only effect was that now I cannot get the WIFI to connect and no improvement to the build plate. The only thing was that immediately after the reset I set the temperature of the build plate manually, and that worked. Once I tried to print someting the same happened as before and the indicated build plate temperature jumped from 32 degrees to 60 degrees. PLEASE is there a way to get back to a previous version of the software. Remember - no WIFI, and if I interpreted the data correctly - also no update with the USB. Ron Breukers
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