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muhkoch

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  1. So I finally figured it out. I tried the flowing: Setting 8/16 Jumer Not influence Loosening the long screws of the printing head improves the print but it has still wriggles Greasing the z-axis no improvement Changing heat bed temperature no improvement Changing extruder temperature improves the print but it has still wriggles Switching of the fan no improvement Auto adjust the PID of the bed and the extruder Even worse wriggles Tring different PID settings The wriggle pattern changed, but no actual improvement After many try and error cycles I finally came to step 26... The solution was: Exchanging the temperature sensor, Olsson Block, Noozle and this White thermal piece. So test 26 was successful: Of all four replaced parts, I think it's just because of the PT100 temperature sensor. As I intended to replace the temperature sensor, it wasn't possible to get it out of the Olsson Block. Therefore I replaced all these different parts.
  2. Hi again. I'd be very pleased, if you can help me once more. Two-three weeks ago my printer startet out of nothing to print the walls quite wriggly (see Image "1"). My Ultimaker 2 has the newest Thinker firmware (V19.03.1) installed. I've printed PLA with 210° / 60° at standard speed. Nicolinux had in 2016 a similar Problem, described in the flowing threat: Because of this, I also tried to switch of the build plate heating. When I switched if off, everything was great (see Image "2"): But without the build plate heating it looses the adhesion. So I tried the PID auto config with 5 iterations. Which gave the following result (see Image "3"): All the previous prints were printed with 0.2 mm Layer hight. I then accidentally tried to print one with 0.1 mm Layer hight. Which resulted in a print without any wriggles, even though the print bead heating was activated. (see Image "4"): How is this possible? I'm getting wriggy walls when I print with 0.2 mm Layer hight. But with 0.1 mm Layer hight everything is OK. Or when I print with 0.2 mm Layer hight but stop the printing bed heating, also every thing is all right. But the adhesion is very bad. So I need this combination of 0.2 mm Layer hight and printing bed heating. Thanks for your advice.
  3. Thank you very much tinkergnome. Switching between the two firmware UM2 and UM2+ didn't work. But your second hint worked very well. I've installed the printrun, and connected the UM2 via USB. With the Baud rate of 250000 I could communicate with the UM2. As you described I just had to send the Command M502 and M500. It worked perfectly. Afterwards the bed didn't crash anymore into the printing head, and I could work through the first configurations steps. THANKS A LOT!
  4. I have now the new 2.1.4 Mainboard with the newest "normal" firmware installed. I did that with cura. And I do not have unplugged in the jumper on the new Mainboard. I can't change the step/mm at the moment as the Ultimaker likes first to go through all these first calibration steps. But I can't go though them, as he likes to lift up the building plat until it hits the head. So I have to switch it off. What could you recommend? I think with the installation of the firmware the parameters are retested and it's calibrations are set to not use the 8/16 jumper. Right?
  5. Hi all I'm close to loosing my temper. I'd be very thankful for any help. I have a Ultimaker 2 with an Olsenblock. Because of a failure, I had to replace my old 2.1.1 Mainboard with a new one (2.1.4). After switching it on, my Ultimaker 2 likes to go through this first calibration steps. But every time he likes to level the building plate he crashes in the head. Actually it just happens once, every other time I was faster in switching it of before it crashed. What Can i do? I have to say that I had used the 8/16 jumper with the old Mainboard. When I set this jumper on the new Mainboard, the building plate doesn't crash any more. It also acheaves to level the building plate. But when it has finished this procedure and wants to home the building plate, h stops around 20mm before reaching it and launches the error "Z switch broken Go to: ultimaker.com/ER05" I made sure that all the cables are connected at the right plug and properly. So I think it's not because of the connection. Furthermore I've measured the Z-switch with a multi-meter. It makes a short circuit when it's pressed. Otherwise it's an open switch. So I think it works also properly. I have also installed the newest Thinker firmware (19.03.1) as well as the newest "normal" firmware. But with both happens the same. I'd be really thankful, for any advice how I can get out of this mess. For completeness, how the whole mess started, and why I had to change the Mainboard: The walls of my print weren't very fin anymore. Some layers were staying out. I think I had over and under extrusion. According to the internet this lays because of the Z-axis. So i checked the 8/16-Jumper (which I sadly made my self with aluminium foil and tape). Because I thought, it may have a loose connection, I wanted to create a new jumper out of aluminium foil and tape again (what a bad idea, as I came to realise). While I was creating new jumper, the aluminium foil touched the PCB. Even it was not plunged to the power, it created a short circuit. The Ultimaker 2 with the old (2.1.1) Mainboard could still start, but the Z-axis didn't work anymore. Every time I wanted to home the building plate the error "Z switch broken" came. That's why I ordered a new Mainboard. Thank you for your help.
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