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  1. Thanks for the hint! Have you tried it on an S5?
  2. How do you guys adjust the z-offset for the first layer? My nozzle is always too close and I have to reduce the initial layer flow to 88% to get no overextrusion.
  3. This is unfortunatly not possible with the S5, as far as i know.
  4. To be frank, I always cringe when I watch the hot nozzle running into the print Surface. The nozzle leaves barely visible marks, but no dents so far (after ~100 prints). I would love to have a bltouch on my S5 like on my DIY Printer at home. E.g. I want to print with PPprint Polypropylen (which comes way closer to the injection molded PP mechanical properties than the Ultimaker PP) but the specifically designed built surface for PPprint PP is a soft rubber material and therefore not compatible with the Ultimaker bed leveling System. I dont think it is possible to turn it off at the start with some G-Code command, but I also have not tried it yet.
  5. Yeah, in the end you are absolutely right. The standard profiles are mostely inadequate and this has nothing to do with instrument variances. Some of the profiles suffer from overextrusion (like ToughPLA) with the 0,4 nozzle, No linear advance, bad xy accuracy, temp issues (230°C for Ultimaker Nylon with a 0,25 nozzle is way to low and results in absolutely no layer adhesion, I'm printing with 245°C now)... BUT I think this should be discussed in different topics and not in the aluminium build plate topic. In my opinion the missing aluminium build plate is not a loss. Whether aluminium or glass plate, i think both are not an optimal solution because in most cases you need some kind of printing adhesive. I tried the glasplate for 1 week on the S5 and then ordered a Filaprint magnetic Switch Plate system by Filafarm for the S5. (I'm still using the glass plate but only with PA and PC). The magnetic printing plates are so much more practical and I don't constantly cut my fingers on the S5 metal clamps. I purchased the S5 only because of one major feature, the swappable print heads. I absolutely love this system. If you do not constantly need to swap the nozzles like me, then there are definitly better printers out there. The Raise3D Pro2 e.g. is a nice machine, that comes with an aluminium build plate, has a closed chamber and better mechanics.
  6. Are you trying to compare a 40k printer with a 5k printer?
  7. Was hast du denn eigentlich für Werte im Cura für Geschwindigkeit, Beschleunigung und Ruck/Jerk?
  8. Ich dachte eigentlich du würdest den gcode auf einen Stick oder sdkarte packen und direkt vom Gerät drucken. Also ohne Cura dazwischen Sag mal, wie steuerst du denn deinen Drucker mit Cura, das ist doch nur ein Slicer. Oder nutzt du das Pronterface ui?
  9. Hast du das gleiche Teil schon mit einem anderen Slicer wie z.B. dem PrusaSlicer probiert?
  10. Du müsstest schon einmal Bilder von deinem Druck zeigen.
  11. Schau dir mal meinen Link oben an, da ist das meines Erachtens anders erklärt.
  12. Egal welchen Slicer du verwendest, wenn du keinen Z Hop und Retraction versuchen willst, dann wirst du das Problem immer haben. Die Schrift in der Mitte der Medaille muss irgendwie erreicht werden vom Druckkopf. Bei anderen Slicern gibt es da auch keine Lösung wo er z.B. nur einen einzigen weg nimmt um die Schrift zu erreichen. Wieso druckst du eigentlich sofort los und beschwerst dich dann über die vergeudete Zeit. Dafür gibt es extra eine Vorschau in Cura. Wenn sich da nichts ändert (speziell die Linien vom Travel) dann auch im Druck nicht. Das Bild unten zeigt den Travel vom PrusaSlic3r den ich zu Hause verwende.
  13. Okay, leuchtet ein. Obwohl Retraction eigentlich immer hilfreich ist, es muss halt nur genau zum Material und Drucker eingestellt werden. Ansonsten hast du es mit der Funktion "Avoid printed parts" schon probiert?
  14. I received my second glas plate a few weeks ago. I just asked the local UM certified dealer iGo3D here in Germany even though I purchased the printer from a different dealer (Conrad). I gave them my instrument number again and they shipped it to me.
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