Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

6 Neutral

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Ah okay I understand. Yes I have tried to print slower first which resulted in a worse layer adhesion.
  2. Yes PETG is great, but it has also its limits. At home I am printing a lot with PETG (See the picture below of my 2,6 kg DAS FILAMENT PETG Spool) But at work I need a lot of different materials. Our company is producing analytic instruments and for prototypes I always need different properties especially resistances to various chemicals. ASA is on top of the chemical resistance extremely easy to sand/grind and has good antistatic properties (good for production jigs or e.g. assembled PCB tester). So overall I am not really looking for the best layer adhesion in the filament world but more on how to print the certain materials as good as possible.
  3. Hey guys, I just wanted to give you a quick info about my struggle with printing ASA by BASF Innofil3D ASA and the solution. BASF Innofil3D has a material profile for ASA in the Cura market place which did not work for me on my Ultimaker S5 at all. The main issue that I experienced with the marketplace material profile is that all prints suffer from a really bad layer adhesion and warping. I changed fan speeds and print temperatures and could not find a sweet spot. Somewhere online I found a comment that ASA seems to degenerate the longer it stays in the hot nozzle. Speeding up my prints and turning the layer fan off reduced the warping and improved the layer adhesion in my opinion. It was way more difficult for me to break off parts from the 3DBenchy. Unfortunatly I cannot meassure the difference. My Ultimaker S5 Print Settings are at the moment: Print Temp: 255°C Build Plate Temp: 110°C (Build Plate is a Filabase and works very well with ASA) Extrusion Flow: 98% Print Speed: 60 mm/s Infill and Wall Speeds: 50 mm/s Travel Speed: 120 mm/s Infill before walls: False Fan Speed: 1% Maximum Fan Speed: 20% Fan Speed Threshold: 10s The print quality of course suffers a little bit due to the higher print speeds but I can accept this as long as the layers a perfectly bonded together. If somebody has the same material could he/she confirm or disprove my observations? I am always open for suggestions/feedback. Greetings Markus
  4. Thanks for the hint! Have you tried it on an S5?
  5. How do you guys adjust the z-offset for the first layer? My nozzle is always too close and I have to reduce the initial layer flow to 88% to get no overextrusion.
  6. This is unfortunatly not possible with the S5, as far as i know.
  7. To be frank, I always cringe when I watch the hot nozzle running into the print Surface. The nozzle leaves barely visible marks, but no dents so far (after ~100 prints). I would love to have a bltouch on my S5 like on my DIY Printer at home. E.g. I want to print with PPprint Polypropylen (which comes way closer to the injection molded PP mechanical properties than the Ultimaker PP) but the specifically designed built surface for PPprint PP is a soft rubber material and therefore not compatible with the Ultimaker bed leveling System. I dont think it is possible to turn it off at the start with some G-Code command, but I also have not tried it yet.
  8. Yeah, in the end you are absolutely right. The standard profiles are mostely inadequate and this has nothing to do with instrument variances. Some of the profiles suffer from overextrusion (like ToughPLA) with the 0,4 nozzle, No linear advance, bad xy accuracy, temp issues (230°C for Ultimaker Nylon with a 0,25 nozzle is way to low and results in absolutely no layer adhesion, I'm printing with 245°C now)... BUT I think this should be discussed in different topics and not in the aluminium build plate topic. In my opinion the missing aluminium build plate is not a loss. Whether aluminium or glass plate, i think both are not an optimal solution because in most cases you need some kind of printing adhesive. I tried the glasplate for 1 week on the S5 and then ordered a Filaprint magnetic Switch Plate system by Filafarm for the S5. (I'm still using the glass plate but only with PA and PC). The magnetic printing plates are so much more practical and I don't constantly cut my fingers on the S5 metal clamps. I purchased the S5 only because of one major feature, the swappable print heads. I absolutely love this system. If you do not constantly need to swap the nozzles like me, then there are definitly better printers out there. The Raise3D Pro2 e.g. is a nice machine, that comes with an aluminium build plate, has a closed chamber and better mechanics.
  9. Are you trying to compare a 40k printer with a 5k printer?
  10. Was hast du denn eigentlich für Werte im Cura für Geschwindigkeit, Beschleunigung und Ruck/Jerk?
  11. Ich dachte eigentlich du würdest den gcode auf einen Stick oder sdkarte packen und direkt vom Gerät drucken. Also ohne Cura dazwischen Sag mal, wie steuerst du denn deinen Drucker mit Cura, das ist doch nur ein Slicer. Oder nutzt du das Pronterface ui?
  12. Hast du das gleiche Teil schon mit einem anderen Slicer wie z.B. dem PrusaSlicer probiert?
  13. Du müsstest schon einmal Bilder von deinem Druck zeigen.
  14. Schau dir mal meinen Link oben an, da ist das meines Erachtens anders erklärt.
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!