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  1. Shame on you for this comment. It is wrong in so many ways (economically, environmentally, customer-friendlines,...). But yes, you can also behave like apple and let the customers pay for your bad design choices. @ludo06 Thanks for the upload. I have already 3 cracked tabs and replaced them with 3D printed ABS versions. I have modified the original tab (see the attachments for the stl) to be more rigid with more material in the screw head area by switching to a countersunk screw hole. I have also removed the chamfer at the top for better printability. If someb
  2. I really would like to share it, but I cannot find it anymore 😅.
  3. I cannot really say, i am still running my S5 with an old firmware 5.8.1 without these features. Because the printer is running everyday I cannot risk any downtime. Thats why I have not upgraded the printer for a long time (except for the bed leveling improvment firmware, which unfortunatly did not help at all).
  4. I have made some new modifications/updates to our S5: 1. We bought a top enclosure made by Accante. The quality is very poor and the edges of the PMMA plates have a lot of cracks from the laser cutting process. But it is still half the price of the Ultimaker air manager. 2. I removed the internal USB camera and replaced it with a ELP usb camera looking down from the top. I tried a few different ELP cameras. I think it depends on the 30FPS resolution of YUY2 encoding of the camera how high the resolution in cura is. It does not matter if you buy a FullH
  5. I can confirm that. Higher bed temps then 60°C lead to a lot of warping
  6. I have also a spring steel sheet from Buildtak. I use it with a Magigoo PA Stick for my Nylon Parts. This works like a charm. The glass plate is completely damaged because of my nylon prints. The parts stuck so well that I ripped big glass chunks out of the surface. With the plain spring steel sheet (no PEI Surface) from Buildtak it is extremely easy to remove the Nylon parts now. BTW, I have also purchased a structured PEI coated spring steel from Energetic on Aliexpress (similar to PRUSA). They are great people and also build custom size sheets for you. The bottom side is a
  7. mkaj2019

    Ultimaker S5

    Es gibt doch schwarzes HIPS z.B. von Formfutura, welches du dann in D-Limonene auflösen kannst. Dann gibt es noch spoolWorks Scaffold, das gibt es auch in dunkel und ist wasserlöslich.
  8. So this is still not fixed in the design, it seems. 🤔
  9. Thank you very much for your great instruction! We have finally managed to integrate our S5 into our company network thanks to you! I dont know why the static ip option is missing in the display menu. This is an absolute must.
  10. Ich würde ja versuchen alles im Backofen warm zu machen sehr lange z.B. bei 100°C und dann mit Handschuhen versuchen das wieder rauszukneten.
  11. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4544757
  12. The Cable Clamp holding the Polybox tubing does not work. It slowly deformes the tubing until the filament is clamped too. I am using a tubing holder now that I made. If you are interested, I will upload it soon and post the thingiverse link here. The holder can be simply clamped into one of the slotted holes below the extruder.
  13. Thanks to your recommendation I have also bought a Polybox now. Because I want to use it mainly for 2,6kg spools I had to modify the box. The box is not high enough for xxl spools other than the 3kg spools from Polymaker. Fortunatly there are a lot of box extensions already on thingiverse. I also printed conical tubes for the rollers. My hope is that this will always keep the spool centered. I fixed the Polybox tubing to the S5 with a cable clamp zip tie. Otherwise the extruder pulls the tubing inside and gets jammed during printing. How did you fix your tubings to the S5?
  14. My S5 started to make some unpleasant noises when the print bed moved up and down. The issue was in my case that the white plastic cover at the back of the print bed carriage has deformed over time. One of the through holes in the plastic cover moved and was now touching the z-axis rod. This could also happen to your S5 printer over time. I will try to explain what I did to solve the issue. I also took some pictures from the parts inside with some comments. Before the repair: https://www.dropbox.com/s/nt96xhdoyvbb1ex/Before_repair.mp4?dl=0 After the repair:
  15. In unserer Firma haben wir alle Arm-Türgriffe (ca. 40 Stück) aus Tough-PLA am Ultimaker S5 gedruckt und an diversen Flur-Türklinken montiert. Stabil sind sie auf jeden Fall. Sie helfen aber auch nicht zu 100%, wenn sie nicht regelmäßig desinfiziert werden.
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