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  1. I have also a spring steel sheet from Buildtak. I use it with a Magigoo PA Stick for my Nylon Parts. This works like a charm. The glass plate is completely damaged because of my nylon prints. The parts stuck so well that I ripped big glass chunks out of the surface. With the plain spring steel sheet (no PEI Surface) from Buildtak it is extremely easy to remove the Nylon parts now. BTW, I have also purchased a structured PEI coated spring steel from Energetic on Aliexpress (similar to PRUSA). They are great people and also build custom size sheets for you. The bottom side is a
  2. mkaj2019

    Ultimaker S5

    Es gibt doch schwarzes HIPS z.B. von Formfutura, welches du dann in D-Limonene auflösen kannst. Dann gibt es noch spoolWorks Scaffold, das gibt es auch in dunkel und ist wasserlöslich.
  3. So this is still not fixed in the design, it seems. 🤔
  4. Thank you very much for your great instruction! We have finally managed to integrate our S5 into our company network thanks to you! I dont know why the static ip option is missing in the display menu. This is an absolute must.
  5. Ich würde ja versuchen alles im Backofen warm zu machen sehr lange z.B. bei 100°C und dann mit Handschuhen versuchen das wieder rauszukneten.
  6. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4544757
  7. The Cable Clamp holding the Polybox tubing does not work. It slowly deformes the tubing until the filament is clamped too. I am using a tubing holder now that I made. If you are interested, I will upload it soon and post the thingiverse link here. The holder can be simply clamped into one of the slotted holes below the extruder.
  8. Thanks to your recommendation I have also bought a Polybox now. Because I want to use it mainly for 2,6kg spools I had to modify the box. The box is not high enough for xxl spools other than the 3kg spools from Polymaker. Fortunatly there are a lot of box extensions already on thingiverse. I also printed conical tubes for the rollers. My hope is that this will always keep the spool centered. I fixed the Polybox tubing to the S5 with a cable clamp zip tie. Otherwise the extruder pulls the tubing inside and gets jammed during printing. How did you fix your tubings to the S5?
  9. My S5 started to make some unpleasant noises when the print bed moved up and down. The issue was in my case that the white plastic cover at the back of the print bed carriage has deformed over time. One of the through holes in the plastic cover moved and was now touching the z-axis rod. This could also happen to your S5 printer over time. I will try to explain what I did to solve the issue. I also took some pictures from the parts inside with some comments. Before the repair: https://www.dropbox.com/s/nt96xhdoyvbb1ex/Before_repair.mp4?dl=0 After the repair:
  10. In unserer Firma haben wir alle Arm-Türgriffe (ca. 40 Stück) aus Tough-PLA am Ultimaker S5 gedruckt und an diversen Flur-Türklinken montiert. Stabil sind sie auf jeden Fall. Sie helfen aber auch nicht zu 100%, wenn sie nicht regelmäßig desinfiziert werden.
  11. Paketklebeband verwende ich zuhause z.B. bei TPE. Das Transparente ist aus PP und sollte für sehr gute Haftung sorgen. Überprüft habe ich das leider noch nicht, da ich zuhause kein PP drucke. Das MAGIGOO PP lässt sich feucht mit einem Topfreiniger-Schwamm wieder entfernen.
  12. An der Arbeit drucke ich viel mit PP, dafür nutze ich immer den Magigoo PP Klebestift. Schon mal Paketklebeband probiert?
  13. Because each line of printed filament is not prefectly rectangular but more a rectangular with round edges, the line width is reduced to really fill the gap between lines. The main issue is not the smaller line width but the auto leveling height of the first layer. The distance is too close for all materials. There is a z offset plugin in the cura marketplace. Try using this and increase the gap size. The waves that you have at your first layer are typical for overextrusion with PETG. When I see them printing with PETG I always change the z offset.
  14. Wie vermutet, ist das Problem schon im 3D-Modell vorhanden. Hier zusehen im 3D-Builder Ich habe das Teil im 3D-Builder (übrigens kostenlos) jetzt einmal reparieren lassen, siehe Stl im Anhang. 158657429_covermirdynamischenfuteilnichtdruckbar.stl
  15. Schmeiß es doch testweise einmal in einen anderen Slicer. Dann dürftest du ja sehen ob es Cura oder das Modell ist. P. S. Lade doch einmal dein Teil hier hoch. Dann können wir es probieren woran es klemmt.
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