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p-kimberley last won the day on September 16 2019

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  1. Is it possible to take a short video of the start of the print process and upload it here? One of the other users or Ultimaker might be able to help out.
  2. Cura Connect Reset is a command accessed via the printer settings menu. See here, second post down. If you've tried a factory reset and it doesn't help, there's no point doing the above step, as it does the same - plus more. Have you tried the limit switch troubleshooting steps on: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/23151-the-x-or-y-axis-is-stuck-or-the-limit-switch-is-broken? Also, check the print head guide rods are centred (relative to the enclosure) and firmly seated in the black, plastic sliding blocks. If the rod ends are not centred, they may not be c
  3. Have you tried doing a "Cura Connect Reset" and if that didn't work, a factory reset? Sorry to hear the machine is playing up with all the pressure the hospitals are under. Hope this helps!
  4. With holes as small as this, you might want to try printing without support - or if the other sections of the model require support, using the support blocker in Cura to avoid generating supports for the holes. This will avoid nozzle switching, which can: Cause contamination of support material, as shown in the white stringing and blobs in the second image Weaken layer bonding by dropping the nozzle down to the "final" print temperature at the end of each layer. You can avoid support as mentioned to stop this, or adjust your temp settings to lessen the degree to which t
  5. I was having this issue too: a loud rubbing/dragging noise when moving the print head along the X axis. It only occurred when the short belt was connected to the motor pulley. The Australian reseller was very helpful and we isolated the problem to the short belt attached to the X stepper motor, which appeared a little worn. The printer had done around 500 hours of print time. After axle calibration didn't help, the reseller shipped a replacement short belt. I fitted the new belt and re-aligned the axles - and we're back printing again, minus the noise. Takea
  6. FYI, I've updated the model to have more indents, making calibration easier. New STL is on Thingiverse at the original link.
  7. Hi all, Up till now I've been using a digital caliper to calibrate the X/Y axles on my Ultimaker S5. It's quite fiddly as I've found it takes several passes to get both sides of each axle equally spaced. While there's an Ultimaker 2/3 calibration stick in STL format on your help page here, there's no equivalent help article for the S5, nor is there an available STL for this model printer anywhere else (that I'm aware of). So I've designed my own, which is now on Thingiverse (see attached image). @SandervG Could I suggest this STL be added to a he
  8. There are a couple of techniques to mould printing. I've made both one-part and two-part moulds for use with epoxy resin (ArtResin). One approach is you can design a two-part mould in CAD, creating a shaft through which you pour the medium, such as resin. Check out my model on Thingiverse for an example: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3945872. The other approach is to print the actual object you want to model and then embed it in something like moulding silicone. I've used https://www.barnes.com.au/addition-cured/pinkysil-silicone-2209 with good results.
  9. @akke I had a similar issue with active levelling failing most of the time and was getting errors like "nozzle probe failed" and "difference between detected height...". Turns out that when I had reassembled the printhead during some maintenance, I had installed the front fan back-to-front. I was getting underextrusion issues as well, which as Erin suggested, can be caused by filament swelling due to cooler air not being drawn in from the front. Once I turned the fan back around, the underextrusion stopped and I'm now able to active level most of the time. Still have the occasional
  10. Thanks for replying folks. Turns out I was misled by the lack of a progress bar, which I seem to recall was there before the update. I've done a test abort and after waiting for the build plate to cool, the "Confirm removal" button appeared and I was able to carry on as normal. That said, without a progress indicator, it's not obvious that the printer is finalising the abort sequence (see attached image). I recommend the progress indicator be restored, as this seems to be a regression. Thanks, Peter
  11. Hi, I was prompted to install the v5.4.6 update on my S5 last night. Now when aborting a print, instead of the expected behaviour which is for the nozzles to clear, followed by a button "Confirm removal", the following occurs: Displays "ABORTED" with a X icon in a circle Build plate heater remains ON (!) No "Confirm removal button", seems to stay in this state indefinitely It appears the only way to finalise the print abortion is to kill the power. After printer restart, the "Confirm removal" button appears as it did prior to the v5.4
  12. Very cool. Looks like the name "S3" as hinted in the video filename is looking more likely.
  13. From the video filename on the Registration page, it looks like this news could involve the existing S5 model and a new product, the Ultimaker S3: http://images.3d.ultimaker.com/Web/UltimakerBV/{c7db3d3b-bb17-430d-8a81-e3b5fb9e635e}_S3_S5_Teaser_(1).mp4 Obviously no details other than a name and a silhouette, but could this be a smaller cousin of the S5? We'll soon see...
  14. Hi Ron, I've had a few close calls with printhead flooding as well, where I've waited and observed a good first layer, but some other problem like too much PVA glue on the bed has led to the part detaching mid-print. I'm especially wary now with printing with high-warp materials like ABS to ensure the first several layers print well and have good adhesion and bonding. Obviously having the temp sensor fail mid-print isn't something you can help, so it's unfortunate you had to go to such lengths to fix the connection. I must've wasted just over a weekend troubleshooting m
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