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Everything posted by p-kimberley

  1. Is it possible to take a short video of the start of the print process and upload it here? One of the other users or Ultimaker might be able to help out.
  2. Cura Connect Reset is a command accessed via the printer settings menu. See here, second post down. If you've tried a factory reset and it doesn't help, there's no point doing the above step, as it does the same - plus more. Have you tried the limit switch troubleshooting steps on: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/23151-the-x-or-y-axis-is-stuck-or-the-limit-switch-is-broken? Also, check the print head guide rods are centred (relative to the enclosure) and firmly seated in the black, plastic sliding blocks. If the rod ends are not centred, they may not be contacting the limit switches when the print head homes.
  3. Have you tried doing a "Cura Connect Reset" and if that didn't work, a factory reset? Sorry to hear the machine is playing up with all the pressure the hospitals are under. Hope this helps!
  4. With holes as small as this, you might want to try printing without support - or if the other sections of the model require support, using the support blocker in Cura to avoid generating supports for the holes. This will avoid nozzle switching, which can: Cause contamination of support material, as shown in the white stringing and blobs in the second image Weaken layer bonding by dropping the nozzle down to the "final" print temperature at the end of each layer. You can avoid support as mentioned to stop this, or adjust your temp settings to lessen the degree to which the temp is lowered towards the end of the layer. You could also enable the "Prime tower" setting, which can help with contamination - though at the cost of additional filament, especially for tall structures.
  5. I was having this issue too: a loud rubbing/dragging noise when moving the print head along the X axis. It only occurred when the short belt was connected to the motor pulley. The Australian reseller was very helpful and we isolated the problem to the short belt attached to the X stepper motor, which appeared a little worn. The printer had done around 500 hours of print time. After axle calibration didn't help, the reseller shipped a replacement short belt. I fitted the new belt and re-aligned the axles - and we're back printing again, minus the noise. Takeaways from this: Make sure belts aren't always rubbing up against pulley edges, particularly with the short belt as the drag can cause excess wear of the rubber. Use thumb screws to adjust offsets as needed. Check for axle play, as per the Ultimaker maintenance article Lubricate axles to reduce drag on the motor and other moving parts (such as belts)
  6. FYI, I've updated the model to have more indents, making calibration easier. New STL is on Thingiverse at the original link.
  7. Hi all, Up till now I've been using a digital caliper to calibrate the X/Y axles on my Ultimaker S5. It's quite fiddly as I've found it takes several passes to get both sides of each axle equally spaced. While there's an Ultimaker 2/3 calibration stick in STL format on your help page here, there's no equivalent help article for the S5, nor is there an available STL for this model printer anywhere else (that I'm aware of). So I've designed my own, which is now on Thingiverse (see attached image). @SandervG Could I suggest this STL be added to a help page for the S5, to make it easier for users to calibrate their printers?
  8. There are a couple of techniques to mould printing. I've made both one-part and two-part moulds for use with epoxy resin (ArtResin). One approach is you can design a two-part mould in CAD, creating a shaft through which you pour the medium, such as resin. Check out my model on Thingiverse for an example: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3945872. The other approach is to print the actual object you want to model and then embed it in something like moulding silicone. I've used https://www.barnes.com.au/addition-cured/pinkysil-silicone-2209 with good results. Layer lines and porous surfaces are an issue with 3d printing moulds. From an aesthetic perspective, without smoothing the part/mould before pouring, the layer lines and micro holes will be replicated in the final object. Even if you sand the part/mould first, you'll at best, end up with a rough or matte appearance, which isn't ideal if you're going for a smooth injection-moulded look. An unsmoothed mould will also tend to stick to whatever medium you cast in it, making removal a pain. To smooth your part/mould, you can print in ABS and give it the acetone treatment, or use something like Polymaker's Polysmooth filament. I've tried both and the Polysmooth filament produced some excellent molds, with good surface detail and smooth appearance. See the attached pic for an example. The surface bubbles are from the resin, not the mould itself. ABS was harder to get an evenly smoothed surface and detail was lost in the process due to running/melting of the plastic. Also, printing a complex ABS object with supports can be tricky as PVA is basically a no-go due to the bed temp. Surprisingly, I haven't been able to find much about 3d printing moulds online. My guess is the setup cost is fairly high and for a casual hobbyist, it's probably easier to find an existing mould on eBay or similar, instead of working through the trial-and-error and learning curve associated with 3d printing and casting. Hope this helps!
  9. @akke I had a similar issue with active levelling failing most of the time and was getting errors like "nozzle probe failed" and "difference between detected height...". Turns out that when I had reassembled the printhead during some maintenance, I had installed the front fan back-to-front. I was getting underextrusion issues as well, which as Erin suggested, can be caused by filament swelling due to cooler air not being drawn in from the front. Once I turned the fan back around, the underextrusion stopped and I'm now able to active level most of the time. Still have the occasional failure, but not like before. Check whether the label at the centre of the fan housing, is facing the rear. If it's visible from the front - the fan's the wrong way around.
  10. Thanks for replying folks. Turns out I was misled by the lack of a progress bar, which I seem to recall was there before the update. I've done a test abort and after waiting for the build plate to cool, the "Confirm removal" button appeared and I was able to carry on as normal. That said, without a progress indicator, it's not obvious that the printer is finalising the abort sequence (see attached image). I recommend the progress indicator be restored, as this seems to be a regression. Thanks, Peter
  11. Hi, I was prompted to install the v5.4.6 update on my S5 last night. Now when aborting a print, instead of the expected behaviour which is for the nozzles to clear, followed by a button "Confirm removal", the following occurs: Displays "ABORTED" with a X icon in a circle Build plate heater remains ON (!) No "Confirm removal button", seems to stay in this state indefinitely It appears the only way to finalise the print abortion is to kill the power. After printer restart, the "Confirm removal" button appears as it did prior to the v5.4.6 update. Over to you, Ultimaker. Hopefully you or someone else in the community can reproduce this issue. This is the second consecutive time occurring for me. I would hope the firmware wasn't rushed out the door to provide Material Station and Air Manager support. This seems to be a pretty big oversight. Recommend looking into this ASAP. In the meantime, I'll have to put up with this till a fix or workaround are released. Regards, Peter
  12. Very cool. Looks like the name "S3" as hinted in the video filename is looking more likely.
  13. From the video filename on the Registration page, it looks like this news could involve the existing S5 model and a new product, the Ultimaker S3: http://images.3d.ultimaker.com/Web/UltimakerBV/{c7db3d3b-bb17-430d-8a81-e3b5fb9e635e}_S3_S5_Teaser_(1).mp4 Obviously no details other than a name and a silhouette, but could this be a smaller cousin of the S5? We'll soon see...
  14. Hi Ron, I've had a few close calls with printhead flooding as well, where I've waited and observed a good first layer, but some other problem like too much PVA glue on the bed has led to the part detaching mid-print. I'm especially wary now with printing with high-warp materials like ABS to ensure the first several layers print well and have good adhesion and bonding. Obviously having the temp sensor fail mid-print isn't something you can help, so it's unfortunate you had to go to such lengths to fix the connection. I must've wasted just over a weekend troubleshooting my temp sensor problems as well and exhausted nearly everything in the process. Was contemplating ordering a new PT100 sensor and soldering it to the board, but in the end decided enough was enough and got the Ultimaker reseller to step in. Didn't want to void the warranty or risk ending up with a dead print bed. Fortunately I didn't have to pay a cent in getting it replaced, they turned around a replacement within days. Since I started in this scene about 6 months ago, I've found a lot of the time spent learning has been with the complexities of FDM printing in general and less about Ultimaker specific issues. I accept that while some of the marketing can suggest 3d printing can be hassle-free, as with many things in life this may not apply when you start to push the envelope. For instance I've found printing with PLA and support materials really easy, but since venturing into more exotic materials like metal-infused / carbon fibre PLA, PC and ABS, you really do need to be willing to spend a lot of time in trial-and-error getting things right. And then there's the money as well - I've got the Bondtech DDG extruders installed, which enabled me to try out the CC Red 0.6 print core on my UM3. Works a treat, but wasn't cheap! Anyway, I didn't really buy the UM3 in the hope that I'd get a so-called "plug-n-play" experience, I accept that's practically impossible to achieve outside the simplest of use cases. I bought it for its dual-extrusion capabilities and build quality - and aside from the heated bed issue, I haven't been disappointed. Cheers, Peter
  15. Hi folks, I experienced the same symptoms as CarloK right after upgrading to the 5.2.8 firmware. I probed the resistance of the PT100 sensor and it was correct, however I was getting ER14 (max temp) errors. I then checked and reseated connections all the way back to the controller board. Also reverted the firmware, which didn't fix the issue. My local supplier in Australia kindly replaced my heated bed and I'm back up and printing with no further issues. Can't rule out coincidence either - just letting my own experience be known in the event there are other cases like this reported. Cheers, Peter
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