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  1. Actually I reviewed the gcode in pronterface even with the minimum area dialed up to 40mm^2 it still won't really infill solid under those letters in cura it seemed like it was solid but it was not. But I fixed it by making a file with blank key chains and by resetting the extruder to the proper place after the copy paste operation for the letters. it works now at least from a gcode review in pronterface. cura's review of the gcode shades the other layers and it's difficult to review layer by layer properly. much better view by double clicking on the print preview in proterface you can review layer by layer then. well problem solved with a little gcode hacking copy and pasting. Hint highlight one end of your gcode press shift and scroll otherwise you'll be trying to copy and paste for hours. terramir
  2. I tried minimum infill area and well it still does this weird infilling in the name pattern below the letters solid but not the letters themselves I dunno maybe I have to slice a blank key chain and then cut and paste and use a g92 command at the transition layer height Although now it is solid beneath the letter thank you for that. I am currently working with petg and honestly this stuff might be strong but when it comes to closing the infill even 4 layers do a lousy job under 30% infill but it's part due to the pattern I think if I can get it to just do a regular top concentric instead of these short moves I might have better luck I think yeah I should position four blank keychains in the exact same positions copy and paste the print from the beginning to the letter layer height after I noted down the last E position on the file with the names and this way I won't have this problem will take some gcode hacking but it should work.
  3. I make alot of keychains they way cura handles this is to print infill below where the letters are that standout (yeah my keychains have names on them), istead of making a solid layer on top and just print the letters above it. is there a way to convince cura to print the top 3 layers before the letters as solid layers and then print the letters on top of them? Anyone know any trick I could use? terramir
  4. I did they refused and closed my issue regrettably, the reason's given where due to them saying that starting on the outside causes different problems well nothing I can do but use slicer instead :(
  5. Wanted to show what actually happens with petg and concentric picture attached but you can see that it has a hard time closing up because cura insists on printing all top layers concentric and it prints from the inside out. check it out terramir
  6. Hi terramir here, I've been on the Reprap forums for 7+ years, but I just recently started using cura. But I am quite well versed in the mechanics of 3d printing. one of the most important things is to get the first layer to stick! also mechanically it is really not sound to print the same pattern layer by layer the same way. But back to the first layer in concentric patterns it would be better for the "stick to bedness" to print the concentric pattern on the 1st layer from the outside in. This way it will stick to the filament from the outer layer in longer runs and also in has more surface area to hold on to the bed. also then printing the second layer from the inside out will alleviate any holes that might have shown up on the first layer (it happens especially with pet-g on blue tape) also an option to just print the bottom and top layers concentric and the other solid layers as lines preferably each layer at a different angle will give the part more strength. an option to do two layers as concentric on the bottom as well as top with two check boxes would be a good feature. (for cosmetic reasons in this case but mostly on the bottom to hide holes) Sorry this is so long, but yeah there is a reason to do only concentric patterns But this is really only for transparent filaments a check box to do that would be good for those occasions and a check box (by default) to alternate patterns from outside 1st to inside first would be best. BTW using lines on the 1st top layer is better anyway (unless using transparent), because the 1st layer is sort of a bridge over the infill. BTW the mechanical soundness also is valid for the non-solid infill the infill should alternate in the angle it is printed at because that does give the part a tiny bit more overall strength. But on the solid shell this is far more important. These suggestions will reduce completely failed prints to slightly cosmetically challenged prints, also printing from the outside in on the first layer might just help prints stick far better. terramir
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