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Everything posted by glx

  1. Hi, I had it happening a few times now that my S5 didn’t return to the correct z height after it resumed from a paused print (caused by empty filament if that matters). It continued too low (I’d say about 0.5mm) and dragged through the whole print destroying it. It doesn’t happen all the time so I can’t provoke that behavior. The first time I thought I probably touched the build plate and dislocated it but it happened three more times on other prints and I’m sure I didn’t touch anything. Is it probably becoming inaccurate when moving the quite heavy bed that much and fast or what co
  2. Weiß grade nicht auswendig wie das beim 2er war, aber bei den neueren kann man die Helligkeit einfach in den Einstellungen auf einen Wert festlegen. Bei UM3 unter System - Frame light.
  3. Okay, that’s sad, it looked like a nice tool in the video ☹️. I’ll have a look into some videos to hopefully figure it out 😅😊..
  4. Hello, At the Transformation Summit there was a plugin for Cura mentioned, that guides through the creation of a material profile called "Profile Assistant". Can I get that somewhere? I got a material but it really doesn't print well on my UMs with the default profile in Cura and I'm a little lost where to start. I looked basically everywhere and wasn't able to find it. When googling it, there seemed to be a support article but it says I'm not allowed to view it 🤔. When I get it to working fine, can I contribute the profile somehow into Cura or are only manufacturers al
  5. You probably have to install it manually via the marketplace in Cura. But there's no profile for the UM3 yet, but it's something that's worked on (according to a forum post here).
  6. A coworker asked if things for his H0-scale trains can be 3D-printed. I made some demo parts for him. Came out better than I expected, the bridge is printed with a new brand that I never used before, so not that nice, but the other ones turned out good. (Why is this upside down 🤔, on my computer it’s right)
  7. Es werden immer beide geheizt, es wird auch immer der z-Offset der beiden gemessen, man könnte also z.B. auch nicht mit nur einem Core im Drucker drucken. Nach welchem Schema er die Temperaturen wählt, weiß ich aber nicht. Ich hab grad mal kurz ein Leveling manuell gestartet, da sieht es so aus: Core 1 ist ein AA 0.4 mit Generic PLA, Core 2 ist ein BB 0.4 ohne Material. Das Bett hat er auf 72°C geheizt, den Core 1 auf 200°C und Core 2 auf 215°C. Nach dem Z-Offset war ihm Core 2 egal, Core 1 hat er auf 175°C gehalten (wahrscheinlich die Standby-Temperatur vom Material?).
  8. Ob das so funktioniert wie du es versuchst weiß ich nicht (glaub eher nicht). Wähl einfach auf dem Drucker bei "Material 2" als Typ Breakaway aus damit er und Cura denken es wäre welches und pass die Temperaturen auf das an, mit dem dein PETG gut funktioniert. Prinzipiell kann der UM3 schon PETG (warum auch nicht), es gibt nur noch kein Profil dafür (ist aber wohl in Arbeit). BASF Ultrafuse PET gibt es auch im Marketplace für den UM3. Im Zweifelsfall fang einfach mit dem Generic CPE Profil an und guck dir mal an wie es druckt. Normalerweise muss man da echt nix machen außer Temperaturen anp
  9. Klingt jetzt vielleicht ein bisschen nach Pfusch, aber ich hab es einfach als Breakaway-Support geladen und das Profil mit angepassten Temperaturen verwendet. Du solltest dir mit dem Material aber sicher sein, also erstmal ein paar Sachen damit drucken und schauen, wie es sich gut drucken lässt.
  10. I stumbled over this some time ago: https://learn.colorfabb.com/lets-make-something-clear/ But getting something really transparent will be difficult. Could be something like an acrylic sheet and just a printed mounting bracket an alternative? @geert_2 posted some transparent parts some time ago, maybe he can help you :).
  11. PETG als Support für PLA (und andersrum) geht super, hab ich auch schon ein paar mal gemacht. Für Nylon kann man z.B. auch gut PLA als Support nehmen. Den z-Abstand für Supports auf 0 Stellen nicht vergessen. Wenn du die Standby-Temperatur so weit runter stellst, muss deine Layer-Time aber echt lang sein, sonst erreicht der Core die garnicht bevor er wieder aufgeheizt wird. Colorfabb XT ist genau das gleiche Material wie Ultimaker CPE (zumindest nach den Werten in den Datenblättern), von daher würd ich dafür einfach das UM-Profil nehmen.
  12. Depending on how often you change the nozzle sizes (I’d find it a little annoying to constantly do this), you can also reprogram the core to a specific one. There is a nice instruction here (in general a very informative thread 😊)
  13. Cura somehow has another versioning-system, it asked me to update my S5 to firmware version 6.2.1 (it had already v6.3 installed) 🤔. The Printer itself showed the correct v6.4 and installed it.
  14. Just a guess but it looks like when you set a minimum layer time and that it should move away from the print when it can’t maintain the layertime at the minimum print speed. The settings are in the "cooling" tab.
  15. Die Frage ist nur ob das Autoleveling dann noch anständig funktioniert, wenn noch etwas Material an der Düse hängt, das er nicht plattdrücken kann, weil es zu kalt und hart ist 🤔. Das ist meine ich der Hauptgrund für das aufheizen, oder?
  16. Hello :), I noticed some strange artefacts on my prints that affect parts in a z-height where a solid top-layer occurs on another part of the print. I’m not sure whether I’m doing something wrong or it’s some kind of bug. There’s always a bump in features that continue in z-direction through an area where at another point at that height a top-layer is. I attached some pictures below because I’m not sure if you get what I’m trying to describe. I can’t spot these artefacts in the slice-preview, they do not depend on the printer (UM3 or S5), occur regardless what material I use (the p
  17. The last time I kind of actively followed an announcement was the aluminium build plate for the S5, and well...
  18. Hello 🙂 when will be more information (and pricing) on the announced PETG-material and the new printcores available? 🤔
  19. Oh you were very lucky, there are nightmare-pictures around here where this completely killed both cores and flooded the complete printhead (looking at that beautiful CC-Core). The most crucial thing is to get the part stuck down securely. I use almost always a brim (for small things that I can observe while they print usually not) and use mostly Dimafix glue.
  20. I guess he doesn’t want the regular walls on the top layers, but I don’t know why there could be an issue with them. You can get rid of the extra wall around the top infill (the option is called „Extra skin wall count) but not the walls, or you can switch to concentric infill, then everything looks the same.
  21. They have also the 17-4 stainless steel filament. As far as I know these filaments adopt techniques and processes that are commonly used in metal injection moulding and aluminium can’t be (easily) injection moulded due to oxidation and temperature issues. So I guess there are no aluminium-filaments out there. I’m no expert in that area, I was just curious about the same thing some time ago because I thought it could probably be easier to process because of its significantly lower melting point, but there seem to be other problems that can’t be easily solved.
  22. How many top layers did you use? That effect is called pillowing, it comes from the layers on top of the infill not nicely bridging over the infill gaps. You can usually get rid of it by just adding more top layers and/or increasing the infill. Alternatively you can lower the printing temperature, slow down the print speed for the top layers and/or increase the amount of cooling.
  23. Have you checked the small cable in the back of the printhead (looking from the front in the middle behind the cores, a red and white wire that connects to a PCB on the hatch). That can break, I had this recently and it did the same, I then discovered that the white wire broke off, the auto leveling worked sometimes, I guess when the wire had by chance some contact. It's kind of difficult to spot if you don't know it can happen.
  24. Mine somehow looks a little different, but the spring is supposed to push the lifting switch down when the core is deployed. As far as I remember the spring isn't that strong (since the core itself is pressed down by its own spring), you should be able to push it back in place with some tweezers. If that doesn't work, you probably have to disassemble the printhead and get it back in place.
  25. I just noticed recently that there is an issue when printing objects that reach closely to the maximum z-height of my UM3. The thing I printed is 198mm tall. While printing everything is fine, the problem occurs when the print is finalised. The printhead moves slightly to the side, then the printer homes the z-axis that causes the build plate to raise a bit before lowering it. Since there is no extra margin the printed object crashes into the printhead. I had this happening three times recently (I don’t print that tall things often and I think it was the first time I printed something that r
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