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I also can’t make PVA print supports nicely. The supports look and behave awful but it prints relatively nice when I print something else with it. The two images are from two prints immediately after each other (first the supports then the PVA-benchy).

@Tim_Cochrane Did you change the nozzle to a ruby one? You can reprogram the Core to make it think it is another one, here’s some explanation and instructions on how to do that: The commands are structured: sendgcode is the shell command M151 is the gcode that does the programming itself T0 is the printcore slot (T0 is slot 1, T1 is slot 2) A8 is the memory area A8 is the type, A16 the diameter D7800000000004141 the last four digits specify the nozzle type (4141 is AA, 4242 is BB, 4343 would be CC, the numbers are the ascii codes in hex format) sendgcode M151 T0 A16 D20302E3400000000 the second command sets the nozzle diameter, you can look it up in the forum post I attached. You can theoretically use any combination even the ones that don’t exist but I don’t know how the printer would threat a CC0.25 or something, so better don’t do that. Also be careful to not accidentally reprogram the wrong slot. To make the printer recognise the "new" core you have to swap it out and in again. There’s also a way to program the cores with "fake print jobs" via USB but I don’t have the instructions on hand right now (it’s somewhere in the forums here). @kwakefield you can change the nozzle but it’s not officially supported. Also you have to be careful to not break the core and check afterwards if it’s really sealed off and nothing leaks otherwise you’ll have a bad time. There are replacement nozzles available from Microswiss, the original ones aren’t available separately. Remember to recalibrate the X/Y offset once you changed the nozzle. There’s a nice instruction video made by gr5 from the forums here:

The part is available in the GitHub repository of the Ultimaker 3, I’m on mobile currently so I can’t easily look for it. But you can download it and print it out of PC or CPE+ or something.

I do also have an 2019 Intel Mac (13" MacBook Pro) with MacOS 12.6 and Cura 5.1.0 works fine.

Die Codes sind übrigens logisch aufgebaut: T0 oder T1 gibt an, ob der Printcore 1 oder 2 programmiert werden soll Das hinter A8 gibt an, was es für ein Typ ist (AA, BB, CC, wahrscheinlich folgt DD der gleichen Logik), AA hat z.B. hinten ...4141 (0x41 ist der ASCII Hex Code für A), BB ...4242, CC ...4343 Das hinter A16 ist die Düsengröße, also ...400000000 für 0,4mm, ...600000000 0,6mm, 800000000 0,8mm Ist praktisch zu wissen, wenn man sich z.B. einen CC 0.4 programmieren will.

Hello, Today my S5 paused a print because it thought a material ran out, it was fine and I resumed it via Digital Factory (I had the website open, so I just clicked "resume" there). It continued to print normally but the error is still displayed and it says "printing" in orange. Is that an intended behavior? I included a screenshot below. Also the error on the machine is still present, even tho it has by the time finished the print. (don’t know why the image is upside down here)

Have you followed the linked support article? I had an issue once because the cable of a feeder wasn’t properly connected (or probably came loose during transport or vibrations during use) what led to highjacking the whole printer and giving a motion system error. After reseating the cable everything worked fine (and still does). I guess everything is connected to the same I2C bus, so a loose connector could easily corrupt the whole bus. It gave me a bit of a hint for a while before because it randomly threw feeder errors (making me disable the filament sensors).

Hello, is there an a little more precise release date and a MSRP for the metal expansion kit in Europe?

Have you tried printing it via cloud or using another USB-drive? My UM2 back then did similar things a few times because of a bad SD-card.

Ich druck es mit Bluetape ohne Druckbettheizung (ziemlich outdated, aber geht finde ich am besten). Normalerweise drucke ich alles mit Magigoo, aber das verträgt sich tatsächlich nicht so gut mit dem Polyterra.

Hast du bei Diagnose mal einen Sensor-Test gemacht? Bei mir lag es bisher immer* dran, dass irgendwas nicht ganz sauber war (meistens Staub/Filament-Rückstände am Hotend-Lüfter oder innerhalb der Druckkopfes). *einmal war das Kabel (rot/weiß) defekt. Aber insgesamt funktioniert es eigentlich sehr zuverlässig bei mir, weil manche immer schreiben, dass es quasi nie funkioniert.

Ich benutze hauptsächlich Colorfabb (PLA und nGen - das geht einwandfrei mit dem CPE-Profil) und Filamentworld PLA. Wenns Metallic-Look sein darf, ist Formfutura Galaxy-PLA super. In matt sieht Polymaker Polyterra gut aus (ist auch ziemlich günstig). BASF hab ich auch schon verwendet, hat mir auch ganz gut gefallen. Bei Colorfabb kann man zusätzlich PLA in jeder RAL-Farbe bekommen (ist dann aber etwas teurer) oder es sogar speziell matchen lassen. Aber was "das Beste" ist, kommt hauptsächlich auf deine Anwendung an.

I'm can't help with what exactly that value is, but I got 2.6 on my S5 (I honestly didn't run this anytime before now, so I don't have a clue). Nearly always when I get that error it is wisps or small debris inside the printhead an/or a dirty front fan/build plate. Once I had a damaged wire in the back of the printhead (the red/white one). Do you maybe have any electrical devices nearby thay may cause EMI problems?

For my S5 it finally produces a nice first layer since the update. Before it was alway squished, pushed aside, over-extruded and the first layer was too large. To compensate that I used to reduce the first layer flow to 90%, then the first layer was nice.

Is it possible to get a 0.1mm profile for the Aquasys 120 material to make it working in combination with a AA 0.25 Printcore as build material hotend?

I use Magigoo glue for CPE and didn’t have problems with it. but I also killed two glass plates (one with ABS and one with CPE) when I didn’t cover the surface completely.

I printed some of these parts and noticed that there are very small layer variations on the surface. To be honest this is whining on a pretty high level, the variations can barely be felt but are visible in certain light conditions, but I'm curious. The parts are printed on an S5 with the "Visual Fine - 0.1mm" preset with Ultimaker PLA White. Where do these variations come from? Variations in the filament-diameter? I noticed another thing, the first layer is always over-extruded, resulting in a slightly too large first layer and visibly overlapping lines on the bottom. If I remember it on time I compensate that by setting the flow of the first layer to 90%, then everything is fine. Is the first layer over-extruded on purpose or is that some inaccuracy of the active leveling? That happens regardless of the material or profiles. I already had that same thing on my UM3, so I'm somehow used to it. The engineering profiles somehow seems to compensate that by setting the initial layer horizontal expansion to -0.2mm.

Hello 🙂, My Ultimaker S5 has its first anniversary today, so I thought I'll share my experiences with it during that year. I got the S5 as an upgrade from my previous Ultimaker 3 mainly because of the larger build volume and bought an AirManager with it. Overall I'm very pleased with the S5, it prints just everything I throw at it mostly without a flaw. I mostly use PLA, but also ABS, PC, and Nylon. The only thing I really hate is PVA, I thought it would be really nice to have but I ended up designing everything in a way that it doesn't need supports. Overall I mostly use only a single Printcore but occasionally also both what also works flawlessly when they are nicely aligned (that sometimes takes some tries, especially with two AA 0.25 Cores and small parts). The only major incident was a TPU-print that became loose and started to flood the printhead, luckily only one core and nothing surrounding was affected (but well, that basically happened because I thought that I don't need a Brim because it was a relatively small part) but I noticed it at some point and the damage wasn't too bad (but I can tell you, TPU is a mess to remove). The default print profiles also work very well (I also like the new 0.3mm profiles for larger parts). At the beginning I was a little annoyed by the always-on auto leveling, but I got used to it and endet up placing small parts in the back right corner so it only probes a small area and it doesn't take much time. And then there was this incident that basically started last week with the Flow-Sensor falsely triggering multiple times during a large print, I thought it might be affected by the material (some glittery Formfutura Galaxy-PLA) because I thought the sensor works optically (after disassembling it I know that's not how it works). So I just disabled the Flow-Sensor and the print and some following finished without a problem. Yesterday I changed back to another material and since I wasn't sure if it would be enough on the spool for the next print I enabled the Flow-Sensor after loading the material. I went to my laptop in another room, uploaded the print and it started. Then suddenly a horrible loud noise from the printer, I went there and saw it heated up, the Printhead stuck somewhere on its way to the lift switch and the Printbed moving very slowly down making awful noises like the stepper motor is blocked and tries to fight it. On he screen I was greeted by this "An unspecified error has occurred in the motion controller."-message: I was confused since I never seen this error and the printer never behaved like that, so I just rebooted the printer. I thought maybe there was something wrong with the G-Code so I checked the settings in Cura, resliced the part and sent it to the printer again. After sending the print I stood next to the printer to make sure everything works now. It heated up normally and wanted to start the active leveling, then suddenly something clicked, the printbed fell down and the same error message appeared. I was like "Are you really dying on your last day on warranty?", I hit reboot and googled the error-message, I found one forum-post over here that suggested the mainboard is gone and one support-article that also suggested a hardware related problem. After the reboot finished I noticed a red exclamation mark at the settings-icon on the screen of the printer, first I didn't think much of it since there was a yellow one for a while because I didn't make a x/y-calibration for two cores that I didn't use together. But remembering it was yellow before, I clicked through to the error-message and came to this: I looked up the mentioned page and followed the steps there, I really like the detailed support pages by the way, I mean it's nothing you want to look at, but when you have to, it somehow brightens up the situation when there's at least a good instruction that guides you through the steps needed. After removing the feeder carefully I immediately noticed that the cable connecting the sensor was disconnected (I'm sure it wasn't properly in place since I was very careful and didn't use any force). I plugged the connector back in, mounted the feeder back in place and powered up the printer. The printer booted up normally, the error was gone and it now prints again like nothing happened. Even tho that was an annoying (and a little scary) error, it was fixed in under one hour and I'm impressed that this was the only fault in one year of usage that caused downtime. The support documents were very good (I would have wished for a little more details for the motion-system error tho) and helped to resolve the issue without having to contact support. I was curious how the flow sensor can highjack the whole printer in such a scary way but sadly the design files aren't public (no offence), my wild guess would be that both are on some I2C-bus or something together and the loose connection of the sensor-connector caused disruptions in the communication between the systems on a larger scale. I don't know if the connector could move out of place by itself (by vibrations probably) or wasn't properly in place when it left the factory and came completely loose over time, but it seemed pretty secure when I plugged it back in. I know nothing about the manufacturing process, but maybe there's some room for improvements with my feedback :) (it's the newer version of the S5 with the "U" on the sides if that matters). Overall I really like the S5 and its ease of use and quality :). I don't know if some did really read the whole thing here but I wanted to share my experiences :). Maybe someone runs into the same issue and this can help.

Which parts did you replace in your printhead? Or the complete assembly in a whole? I had the auto-leveling problem only once really broken, that was when the wires that go from the back of the printhead to the PCB in the bottom of the hatch (a red/white twisted wire) broke. After replacing it everything was fine. Probably it got damaged during your accident.

Hello, That happens because straight thin flat surfaces have a very poor stability. You can bring some structure into your object that don't bend easily, so it can reinforce itself. You can see on your photo, that the curved area is nearly unaffected while the straight part is bent. Think of a sheet of paper, it bends right away, but if you have a wavy piece it can support loads pretty well. When material cools down it shrinks a little, that introduces forces into your print (basically the same principle why prints tend to warp), if there's nothing that withstands these forces, the print bends and wrinkles up.

Ich hatte eine Filafarm-Platte auf meinem UM3, die hat okay funktioniert (Leveling war kein Problem), allerdings hatte ich das Gefühl, dass der Wärmetransfer sehr unter den vielen Layern (Glasplatte, aufgeklebte Magnetplatte, Stahlplatte, aufgeklebtes FR4) leidet, daher bin ich am Ende doch wieder bei Dimafix/Magigoo und der Glasplatte gelandet. Magigoo hat hier eine Liste mit getesteten Materialien und Einstellungen: https://airtable.com/shrHtJXiFolLqKv9e/tblg9NdhwkfgfAMRc Ich hatte mir mal eine Fiberthree ProPrint überlegt, aber die ist mir zum ausprobieren ein wenig zu teuer.

The CC-Cores aren't supported by the UM3 (mainly because the feeders aren't made for the use with abrasive materials so they will wear down faster), but I think you can use it (Cura and the printer will complain tho). You could reprogram it to a AA 04 core and manually set the line width manually to 0.6mm when slicing if you don't want to click away the complaints.

I made a plant pot with the shape of some parts from Kerbal Space Program (a spacecraft simulation game where you design rockets to help small green guys explore space, planets and moons, for those who don't know it). It's a part of a supposedly crashed probe (maybe because the astronaut was busy taking selfies in space). I designed the parts in Fusion 360 with rough measurements from the game running (literally with a calliper at my screen 😅).. I made a small one as proof of concept and a large one 😊. Printed on an S5 with Formfutura Galaxy-PLA and a 0.8mm Printcore. The badge is printed with Ultimaker PLA (the blue one is pretty old, it even is on a black spool 😅, but printed fine) and two 0.25mm Printcores. The small one is printed with the regular 0.4mm Cores. (I know my glass plate is upside down, but the other side is pretty used up and has pieces torn out of it).

By default the top/bottom flow is reduced a litte (to 97% I think), you can try to increase that. Have you ruled out mechanical issues like dirty feeder, partly blocked nozzle, wrong tension of the feeder lever? Does this also happen when you use the material in extruder 1?

Just in case you need on-site support or spare parts at some point, igo3d.com (Ultimaker distributor and support partner for Germany) is also based in Hannover. They carry like every part of Ultimaker Printers and the support has been very nice the few times I contacted them. Probably you can get some education-discounts on materials or other benefits (they at least have some educational program on their website).