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dfrez

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  1. I did exactly what you said. I downloaded the file in your reply to me, which matches the filename you stated. Then I dropped it into Cura as if it were a 3D model, and I restarted Cura like it prompted me to do.
  2. Since I wanted to be able to access both of my UM2's through Octoprint, I ended up getting a Raspberry Pi 4 (didn't want to mess with trying to run two instances on the same Pi). I printed the same exact models that caused blobs on the RPi2 and they came out flawless with the RPi4. So FWIW, it does seem that part of the issue can be caused by an older Pi. No post processing with the Arc Welder plugin on either set. RPi2 on the left and RPi4 on the right.
  3. I tried this and it's still not coming up. I installed it just fine through the plugin manager on my other laptop which is running Cura 4.6 and Windows 10. 🤷‍♂️
  4. I'm having the same issue as @macmaddog. Running Cura 4.2 on Windows 10. I checked that the plugin was installed, I also disabled, enabled and restarted Cura. Still not seeing the Arc Welder plugin under Special Modes. Where do you find the log file?
  5. When I saw that thread title before making this post, I (stupidly) assumed it was actually for an arc welder 🤦‍♂️... looking closer, I think this is solving my exact problem! The buffer underrun that is caused by too many g-code commands, do you think that would be mitigated by a newer Raspberry Pi? I figured my 2 is a bit long in the tooth anyway. or is it more of a bottleneck caused by the USB protocol itself?
  6. Hi All, I've got a UM2+ running TinkerFW 19.03 connected to Octoprint 1.5.3. It's loaded onto an older Raspberry Pi 2. I've been using it for awhile without any issues. But lately I've noticed that printing from Octoprint will cause blobs/zits to appear on outer walls. I've watched it happen, the printhead will pause momentarily, depositing a small amount of material. Same g-code printed from the SD does not cause this issue. Sliced with Cura 4.2. An initial search shows that this is due to a buffer issue, that Cura creates a lot of small move commands which basically overwhelms t
  7. I thought about that, higher temp=faster moisture removal. But I wasn't sure if that would damage the PVA. I saw a guide from UM about drying it out on the buildplate and they said to do 55°C. However, they recommend drying for a measly 2 hours. I suppose I could drying it again. 🤷‍♂️ Just keep measuring the weight until it stabilizes.
  8. I know this is a common topic, but I couldn't find anything similar to my exact issue. TL;DR: Got some PVA that was wet right out of sealed bag. Tried drying it out for almost two days. Still wet. I bought some Gizmodorks PVA and right out of the vacuum sealed bag it would pop and sizzle coming out of the nozzle. Could even see steam from all the moisture. I tried drying it for a few hours at 55*C, still popped and sizzled. I asked the seller for a replacement, hoping this roll had been exposed to moisture before being packaged. The second roll was just a
  9. Exactly. I would like the streamlined and clean, “all in one” aspect of it.
  10. FWIW there are quite a few upgrades available for the UM2, just depends on what you’re looking for. Not necessarily provided by Ultimaker, but through the active community here. I have two UM2+, I love them as well. Rock solid printers. One is completely stock, the other has been upgraded with the Mark2 Dual Extrusion upgrade (a community project), Bondtech Extruder, Webcam and Octoprint. So I think it has most of the capability of the UM2+ Connect (if not more due to dual extrusion) it’s just not as streamlined because it’s not integrated with Cura Digital Factory, etc.
  11. Hm, I'll have to try that. Been having better luck with these settings after printing a temperature test tower: 0.1mm layer heights Standard CPE profile speeds in Cura, 30mm/s wall and 45mm/s infill. Nozzle Temp: 255-260*C Bed Temp: 70*C Fan: 90-95% The standard settings on the printer are way too "cold", IMO. The standard nozzle temp for a 0.4mm nozzle is 235*C! What I thought was odd, was that the 0.25mm nozzle temperature was listed at 245... Not sure if this was an error in the profile on the SD card or what. I've never changed it.
  12. Sorry for bumping an old thread, but I was just curious how you calculated flow (mm^3/s)? I'm assuming area in the volumetric flow equation was calculated using line width and layer height. Where flow is q=V*A, V=velocity (mm/s) and A=area (mm^2).
  13. Hey, fellow Mark2 owner! 😛 Been having similar issues with UM CPE (same color too, lol). The infill doesn't want to stick to itself and starts to ball up like yours did. I've used PETG in the past which is similar to CPE and it is also very finicky, I purchased some UM brand CPE hoping it would work a little better. Nope! Even on my stock UM2+, sliced with CPE Cura profile and the standard CPE settings (0.4mm nozzle) on the printer still gives me issues. I've found that adjusting speed and nozzle temp seem to be the biggest factors in print quality with CPE/PETG. I al
  14. Yeah, I figured most of the functionality would be in the PCB. No idea if the old display would even be compatible, so I agree it does start to add up quickly. Oh well, was just wondering. lol.
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