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  1. I bought a UM3 enclosure kit from Printed Solid, only needed the hood so the door is up for sale. Comes with all the needed hardware including magnets to keep the door closed. Great for printing with ABS or other materials that can be affected by changes in temperature of the build volume. Looking for $75 shipped OBO. Located in NY and willing to ship within continental US for my asking price. Message me with any questions if you're interested. Thanks!
  2. Hi Torgeir, thank you for the info. Do you do abs prints with your mark2 as well? Also could you provide the PN on that Dell PSU? Might be cheaper to find than the MeanWell. I just can’t make out the number in the picture.
  3. I've searched the thread but couldn't find anything similar. But I've noticed when I'm doing ABS and HIPS prints with the bed at 100C, the printer struggles with keeping the bed up to temp, which leads to the print warping and then popping off. With a single nozzle print, I have no issues with adhesion and keeping the bed at 100C. I currently have the top of the printer covered with an old printer paper box and the front covered with a plastic lid as a means to keep heat in. The bed gets up to temp like normal when everything is heating up, but once the nozzles are turned on and the print starts, the bed starts to cool. Sounds like a power budget issue to me. I haven't had the printer shut off at all with my current settings of 175/150/40/40. So perhaps I need to increase the budget (1st number) a little more so that the printer isn't afraid to apply more power to the bed to keep it at temp? I also saw an older post here about someone powering the bed with a separate PSU, which could be an option or replacing the 220W PSU with a 280W PSU. Both are options I suppose, but was wanted to see if there was a way to just make due with the current hardware.
  4. Drinking my morning coffee, TGIF. So I tried that Magigoo on an ABS print the other day. Worked really well, too well almost. Even with the bed completely cool it was impossible to remove by hand or by trying to work a spatula underneath. Ended up putting the part and buildplate in the freezer for a few minutes and was able to remove it after that. I think I'll save this stuff for more difficult materials. lol.
  5. Oh, for sure. I agree. If it's an important print, I'll wash the plate with soap and water and then reapply for a fresh coat of glue just for peace of mind.
  6. After reading more closely: "Print and print and print some more. With one Magigoo 50ml pen, you’ll be able to print over a 100 prints. Apply every time for sure adhesion, do not risk a failed print." I typically clean my buildplate after a few prints just for peace of mind. Could you elaborate on how you use just water for adhesion? That's pretty crazy. I've only managed to chip a build plate when I was printing ABS without glue. (I've since learned my lesson, I know it was stupid). Regarding the Prittstick, judging by the product description it sounds a lot like the Elmers "sticks to more surfaces" glue I was talking about. I would try the Pritt but it sounds like it might be tougher to get than Elmers, since it's a UK product. I also am intrigued and will give this magigoo a try, lol.
  7. I just looked it up. I didn’t even know they had anything like that. Normal glue stick has worked well enough for me I didn’t even consider using anything else. It seems kinda pricey compared to a glue stick, but it says it lasts for over 100 prints. I’m not sure if they mean per application or for the whole tube, because that would make a huge difference, lol.
  8. Drinking my coffee at work on a Friday afternoon (am i doing this thread right?). Looking forward to some more printing this weekend. Has anyone used this glue stick before: I recently got a stick because I couldn't find the "normal" strength one. I'm not sure what extra or different this one has in it versus the typical PVA glue. But it seems to work just as well if not better, prints stick well and seem to pop off more easily than normal PVA.
  9. I've printed with a few different ABS filaments and by far the best would have to be the Ultimaker brand. It's the easiest to work with, very little warping on 100C glass with glue stick, good layer adhesion even without wrapping the printer to keep heat in. Obviously it's a bit pricey, but worth it for the ease of use, imo. I also bought some Gizmodorks brand but haven't had a chance to use it, which was a bit better price wise. The cheapest and most "meh" ABS I've used was AmazonBasics brand. It warped very badly even with keeping the build volume as hot as possible. The only way to help lessen warping was using a UM adhesion sheet. I was able to use it for some longer prints, but was definitely more of a headache to get prints to come out well.
  10. My first dual extrusion print came out pretty good! Thanks to everyone who made the Mark2 project possible.
  11. Most likely magnets not strong enough. I had the same problem, even with "N52" rated magnets I got from eBay. I ended up buying the same rating of magnet from a more reputable source and they are significantly stronger, even though they are supposed to be the same "rating".
  12. I see. Thanks for elaborating. That seems like a good compromise between performance while still being able to keep the filament somewhat dry.
  13. Nope! Not too wordy. 🙂 Extra friction to overcome with a longer bowden system is definitely something to consider if you want to do something like this. Although, not sure what you mean by “non-mobile feeder tube”?
  14. Cool! That's a good design. The feeders look very similar to my UM2+ so I would imagine that would work for mine as well, if you're okay with possibly sharing it. 😊 I have an eBox as well. Not overly happy with it, doesn't seem to get nearly as warm as they advertise. I think this has a lot to do with environmental factors and how long your prints run for. Like my office at my previous job where I was printing with a UM2+ Extended was so dry that I left many materials laying around, even Nylon out for months with no quality issues. However, I've learned how much of an issue moisture can be printing at home with my UM2+ which is much more humid. I left out some CF Nylon for less than a week and had very noticeable print quality issues due to moisture. If you live in a very humid environment and the filament is susceptible to absorbing moisture, like PVA as OP was printing with, you could easily absorb enough moisture during a print to cause issues. So connecting the bowden tube helps inhibit possible paths for the moisture to get to the filament. Although the feeder itself is also open to ambient air, so who knows.
  15. The bowden tube I have is the standard UM size, so it's 6.35mm/0.25" OD. Should be able to find pnuematic fittings in that size for imperial. The separately mounted housing is a good idea versus trying to retrofit something to the feeder housing. Like I mentioned I tried searching YouMagine for one, because I figured someone has already thought of this, but I couldn't find anything.
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