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  1. The original values are 140/170/40/40
  2. Sorry for bumping such an old thread, but I don't see any holes on the bottom plate that match the hole pattern for the Pi board. The only set of unused holes (4) I can see on the 3D assembly is 50mmx70mm, but the Pi mounting hole pattern is 49mmx58mm. I suppose you could make an adapter or modify a case to use those holes, but I was just curious if there was a change in the bottom panel for a UM2 in 2014 compared to my UM2+ (not sure of build date, before 2017) that prevents directly mounting the Pi with some standoffs.
  3. Thanks for the tip regarding Ultimaker packaging. I had no idea you could buy it separately, would have saved me the headache of a poorly packaged UM2+ that I received damaged.
  4. Does anyone have any tips on tuning the toolchange retractions so that you don't need to print with a prime tower? I searched this thread for specific advice and it pretty much boiled down to: 1. use the default settings of 16mm @ 20mm/s 2. change the speed and not the length 3. depends on material(s) Is the goal to have it just barely extrude material before switching nozzles? My main concern is avoiding underextrusion after a toolchange... A few of the dual extrusion test prints I've done still have a few boogers on the print from nozzle changes and it also makes a huge mess after a long print with the little strands everywhere. I'd be more apt to use a prime tower instead but the Cura 3.2 square tower is annoying.
  5. I didn't realize you were the same person I recommended them to earlier. Whoops. Yeah, you're right. They are listed at a lower strength.
  6. don't thank me, TinkerGnome did most of the work helping. lol. I would try getting some magnets from a reputable source first. I found the strength of N52 magnets varied a lot between a random eBay seller and the reputable seller I bought mine from. With the eBay seller the head would pop off easily and all my problems went away with the quality magnets. Side by side you can just feel how much stronger they are even though they're both supposed to be N52 rated.
  7. Yep, you update the firmware with the USB cable. You select the update file after you connect to the printer in Cura.
  8. Download the whole project as a ZIP folder from the main page and grab the file you need. When you download the hex file separately it won't load onto your printer properly. Believe me, been there, done that.
  9. I bought my N52 magnets from Apex Magnets. Clicky Click
  10. I'm interested in this as well. Would likely need two since my UM2+ is a dual extruder.
  11. Just an update to my earlier post, I played around with the power budget settings and now I'm able to print with both nozzles running and bed at 100C. 😀 I originally had it at a much "safer" setting of 140/170/40/40. Changed it to 180/150/35/35, which I believe is the default and it seems to be working well so far. For what it's worth, the PN of my power brick has "GS" and not "GST" which @gr5 has stated is more prone to shutting down. Now I need to mess with the support material profile...
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