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  1. No I modelled the PLA and PETG parts manually, this is my own design (because I just had to fiddle!) 1mm is probably more than you need though?
  2. I've changed it a bit now as we're up to 3 printers running. A UM S5, UM3 and then the Mark2. Hilariously my Mark2 is doing better than the others hahaha. We're churning out over 100 a day. There are 2 layers that have PLA in them between each headband. But the second is just the outer edge so that the PETG gets laid down inside this. See image. It is super sensitive to the PLA you use, some stick too well, some not at all, some just peeerrffeeccttt.
  3. Overhead Projector Sheets. I spaced nubs on the shield for a standard North American 3 hole hole punch
  4. I can never go back to single extrusion example number 4568 Printing face shields for local healthcare workers here in Canada 40 minute print, can't print at night, high manpower demand flipping prints. Realised that PLA and PETG don't stick very well. Modified my design to stack with a single PLA layer inbetween. Bingo! Pumping out faceshields in easily separable stacks. Mark2 FTW
  5. My personal solution to all of this was to set a tiny tiny piece to be printed with nozzle 1 which takes 2 seconds, then the main part to be printed with nozzle 2 for the rest of the print
  6. Of course, I attached it but added PDF to the end else it would not upload. I also have a custom start wipe procedure that copies the UM3 and poops a blob directly onto the glass. You have to replace the Mark2 file in definitions so remove the 4.5 from the start of the file name. Let me know how you get on. It's pretty finely tuned to my machine so if you're a few mm different in your home position you'll have clashes. 4.5 Mark2_for_Ultimaker2.def.json.pdf
  7. Amazing, thank you. I've got some homework to do! I think I'm going to find some higher temp ones, perhaps a different shape and remodel the heads for my "heavy duty" needs. Yeah I was worried about it no longer being a 'tripod'. But since I stiffened up the coupler with side bars it's basically two flat planes and since I used the head to set the position of the coupler magnets there doesn't seem to be any misalignment gaps (yet). But I'll keep an eye on it. I aligned the slots with the center of rotation so it drops into place nicely.
  8. Ahh that makes sense, I really should have realised this. I miss the absolute value but only because as I switch back and forth between pla or abs if I forget to update the material settings in cura I can fix it when the print starts. But with the "temperature magic" I think you called it I understand why you switched to an offset. In a perfect world the offset limit could be more than 25 for the heated bed. Or I could just learn to check by slicing settings haha 80! Of course, that would have done it then. I was assuming all could manage 100+ like an RC motor but I'm pretty sure
  9. I thought I'd post another update as I've worked through a few issues specific to my use cases. I've been doing lots of ABS prints in a hot enclosure (70C+), and it seems like my magnets are getting weaker, losing alignment or I don't know what. I was never able to reach the furthest corners without the head popping off but it got worse and worse. I modified the head and the coupling to include an additional 4 magnets and printed everything over 11 hours with a 0.25mm nozzle in ABS (fusion+ from Innofil/BASF, it's pretty good!). I also beefed up the coupl
  10. I don't know why I keep writing here but it feels like the right thing to do incase it helps anyone. I did switch nozzle 1 over to the other side, which has increased my dual build area. The offset in CURA doesn't apply to the gcode is creates, just to the disallowed areas (I think there is a setting in the json file to make this true or false). I think I will keep tuning the build area, there's a few mm all round to gain. The only thing I can't solve is to get the area in CURA to be shown on the correct part of the glass in the software. But it's the right shape, and it prints fin
  11. Ok, I don't know how to quote properly so I'll just respond as best I can! I've been playing with the disallowed areas, and found a few interesting things. - it is possible to crash into Head 2 when using Head 1 using the default .json file from github - under my circumstances, I can have an offset applied in CURA and on the printer and CURA is NOT applying the offset to the gcode. I don't know why your finding was different tinkergnome? - using the default ultimaker profile, with the second head removed and parked outside, could still result in a clash with the int
  12. Thank you for such a speedy and helpful response. It may seeeeem like I know what I am doing.... butttt..... no. I realised that if the extruder 2 offset is set in cura under machine settings, then it automatically shifts and applies a second disallowed area when you have a dual extrude print set up. If that doesn't make sense, I'll add pictures at a later stage. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem smart enough to differentiate between disallowed area for extruder 1, and extruder 2, but rather applies the whole area as disallowed for both regardless of what extruder is being used on eac
  13. Firstly, wow you guys! I sent you some beer money, but it wasn't so easy to find the donate button. Make it bigger and flashing? Love the work, love the thought and care and awesome solutions to all the problems. Like angling the head so the nozzle lifts etc etc. I do have a couple of questions, and you are surely the best to help me if you have a minute. 1 - "machine_disallowed_areas". I was going to ask how to change these areas, but then I dug around inside the .JSON and spotted them. I am trying to maximise the print area, so I ran the heads around whil
  14. I fixed it! I tried measuring voltage across the sensor and found that it was 1.3V when the nozzle was in the mV. So I disconnected the power to my (also NEW) heated bed, and the temp worked fine! So I then saw lots of surface solder splatter around the connector on the bed which was shorting the two middle pins. After cleaning that off, it worked. So the sensor had been confused by the short, but not enough to throw any errors.
  15. It got weirder! So I plugged in a spare nozzle temp sensor into temp3 and it then read a temp correctly and all was good, it would even heat up ok. But if the sensor was unplugged an error was flagged right away. So it must be something to do with the sensor, even though I can read the correct resistance from it. Maybe the machine reads the resistance in a different way than my multimeter?
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