Jump to content

jbearpark

Member
  • Content Count

    8
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I'm unable to update my S5 to version 5.4.27, I can start the update fine but once it gets to about 1 minute remaining on the install it will freeze and after about 5 minutes restart. I'm also unable to print on the current version as a finished print is stuck at the top of the queue. Can anyone help?
  2. I've printed some parts in TPU-95a recently and the key thing I would say is make sure it is robust design and limit thinner sections. It has a hard rubbery feel which is nice but doesn't offer a huge amount of strength. I also found it can come out a bit messy but tidies up well. Definitely has a niche use (I made the outside of a handle from it, but it needed a rigid piece inside to keep its shape. Despite UM saying it is experimentally compatible with PVA, I had no issues printing support structure. If you have dual extrusion it works really well and is pretty easy to separate without having to dissolve the most of the PVA.
  3. I've been using PLA for the majority of the models I print and they tend to be relatively simple designs, fairly boxy with a few curves as they are used in test rig setups. Since getting the printer I've stuck to either Magenta UM PLA or White UM PLA. There hasn't been anything wrong with the prints but the quality isn't quite what we hoped for a printer this expensive. Magenta had a tendency to become a little messy around the edges and White seemed to have very prominent layers (as if they weren't bonding very smoothly). Just this week I decided to change things up and print in Silver Metallic UM PLA and, despite an issue where the entire model became offset part way through printing where our cleaner knocked it during the night, the print quality is far far better. The model looks really clean straight of the build plate with near zero touch up needed. The material also feels much harder and solid than the similar sized and shaped magenta models. The layering also looks and feels smoother with the silver than the Magenta or White. I didn't change any settings within Cura when switching over, yet print quality is far better with this material. Obviously you can see the offset near the bottom of the design and it looks nearly flawless. I can't show the inside of the model due to the product not being released and I can't show too much of the test rig interface with it but both have steep and sweeping curves and the Silver version came out much better. Edit: As far as I'm aware, both models used default Cura profiles for the detected material with a 0.1mm layer height. Has anyone else had a similar experience? I think I'm going to do some test prints in the new year with all the PLA colours we have to see what gives the best results.
  4. I'm more curious as to whether they can be put into regular plastic recycling bins, not sending them back to ultimaker as that definitely would not be worthwhile at a small scale. The printer is a company one and my company has no real way to repurpose them. If you are talking about incineration then you are completely wrong. Plastics do not burn cleanly and release toxic fumes, even with filtering it still produces loading of pollution. I'd like to know your source on this because I have never seen anything pointing to 'plants don't have enough CO2.' CO2 contributes to the greenhouse, trapping radiation in the atmosphere. It also has an adverse affect on humans and animals, displacing oxygen in the air, which is particularly evident in large cities.
  5. I've started stacking up quite a few empty spools now and am looking to get rid of them but can't see anything on them about recycling, or on the boxes for that matter. If anyone could advise me that would be great. If they can't be, then I ask ultimaker to really consider this as its a lot of plastic waste, its a real shame if I have to throwaway every single one.
  6. I've been doing some research in polycarbonate for printing as I'm experimenting with different materials. Having read quite a few websites giving advice on PC printing there seems to be a lot of recommendations to print at a minimum temperature of 290°C, however after loading it into my printer the default Cura profile is set to 280°C. From my first print 280°C has definitely given good results but it makes me wonder whether there are any benefits to increasing the temperature? Is it a characteristic of Ultimaker PC to print at a lower temperature and print at 290°C or higher for 3rd party PC? I also have some transparent PC and I've been wondering what the trick is to get that to print clearly as I can't find much about printing transparent PC. Should I look at changing the default cura settings for transparent prints or will a well designed model be enough for good results?
  7. Hi @SandervG Thanks I'll give those print settings a try. The two models were different. Essentially one was a 15mm radius dome and the other was a 20mm radius dome (hemispheres + 15mm cylinders at the base). I just remeasured them and realised they are both actually too tall but one is +1mm while the other is +2.8mm so there is still a considerable difference between the two.
  8. I've been having issues with some dimensions in my prints where it is up to 2mm out in some dimensions. I have calibrated the printer (S5) a couple times in the past week after already having problems printing PVA supports which were solved. I am printing with PLA as the main structure. Unusually the dimension issues are not uniform. I.e. I printed two items at the same time but one was too short while the other was too tall, both were too thin. Is there a way to view the actual data that was sent to the printer as it seems like it could be some kind of scaling issue? Print settings are on extra fine 0.06mm so I would expect much more accuracy than ±2mm. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...