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Mari

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Everything posted by Mari

  1. Instead of the Gcode it is better to attach the Project-File, then we have not only the item but also your printer settings... attach a project-file that is correct and one that doesn't work... For comparing Gcode you could use a program like NotePad++... What material are U using? PLA? PETG? ABS?
  2. Calibrated E-steps of extruder? How tight are the springs of the bed?
  3. Else select this option and then the face of the object you want to put flat on the buildplate! Sometimes it doesn't work that easy when the face is not flat at all
  4. ... Creality Ender 3 is supported... When you add a printer is is under "non network printer" - Creality3D...
  5. Don't use underscore "_" to start a filename with... then the Ender 3 will not see the file... Still no reply from OP... so the problem seems not as big as OP stated... 😉 (else you would visit this forum on a daily base to read the replies!)
  6. ... there are 2 different things, machine settings and cura profiles... you create machine settings once for a printer, but the cura profiles you keep tweaking to get better prints.... Luckily there are some people who create Cura profiles and share them... The profiles I like the most are to be found on this website: https://www.chepclub.com/cura-profiles.html Creality Slicer is and old version of Cura (and Cura changed a lot in the past year) so don't think you can export/import the profiles that easy...
  7. Create your own printer-profile!
  8. Make sure the option "Automatically drop models to the build plate" is checked...
  9. With this little information we can't really help! We don't know your machine settings nor your Cura settings! Attach the project-file so we can see your machine settings and cura settings! -->File - Save Project Keep filenames as short as possible, don't use spaces to make filename easy readable! I see you only test 2 files, so it seems that one of the 2 files is corrupted or not sliced the way it should. Re-slice that file, put in on Micro-SD card and try again!
  10. Simply choose one of the other Creality printers, for example Ender 3 Pro and rename it... after that you only have to change a few settings (buildplate volume)... after that you are ready to go! For CR-05 Pro: X = 300, Y = 255 and Z = 380 For Ender 6: X = 250, Y = 250 and Z = 400
  11. If you did multiply, all object should be the same... there is some difference in height and 2 of the object are not placed flat on the buildplate! Things probably have changed by moving the object around, you should be more carefull and precise... After placing those 2 object flat on the buildplate I was able to print all 3 in preview-mode... give it a try 315242511_fuckflake3onpageoriginaldesign_fixed.3mf Printer can't print in mid-air, therefore the object are not printed 🤪
  12. If you don't want copies of one and the same item (multiply), you can open other items en put them of a free spot of the buildplate 😉
  13. That is probably the problem... put the gcode-file on mirco sd-card and print with that! Cura isn't really designed for printing over USB...
  14. ... please share the project-file with us: File - Save Project... Then we not only have the object but also your printer settings... Did you not accidentally set a option/command under Extensions - Post Processing - Modify Gcode
  15. For PETG you don't have to modify ypu printer, you only have to change of the slicer settings (temperature, cooling, retraction speed)... You will waste some material to find the right settings on your printer for this material!
  16. No need for a gluestick... just clean it with 70% isopropynol alcohol from time to time...
  17. If there are not option on the printer to hold the temperature when filament run-out is detected you probably have to change one or two things in the marlin firmware that is running on the printer! Don't ask me what to change, it was information I found on Google when I searched for it...
  18. - Brand/Type printer? - Brand/Type material? - Printing temperature? What does the manufacturer advice? (info on the role of material) - Printing Speed? Give as much information as possible... For flexible materials you print at slow speed, minimal retraction...
  19. search for the right file to edit... I don't think cura makes up the disallowed areas by itself...
  20. What colour of shirt were you wearing when you used Cura as slicer? Probably another colour then when you used Slic3r... so blame it in the colour of your shirt...😉 @GregValiant explained it very well what happens when you push the "home" button... If you don't trust the printer-profiles you get with Cura, create your own one!
  21. The Creality CR-10S Pro has a heated bed, so that should be no problem... PETG & Glass Bed are not the best combination because PETG can stick so good to the bed that it will damage it! Friend of my experienced that with his Ender 3 Pro (changed from flex mat to glass bed, I warned him to be cautious)... I recently ordered a roll of PETG, my first print with it was a CHEP Calibration Cube... Print temperature 235 degrees, bed temperature 50 degrees, print speed aprox. 50mm/s, still trying out the best fan-speed... (used 100%, but my friend told me 60% is better). Must say I use
  22. Cheetah is less flexible than Ninjaflex, but therefore easier to print with a bowden-tube style printer! Ninjaflex: Shore Hardness = 85A Cheetah: Shore Hardness = 95A Armadillo: Shore Hardness = 75D Regular PLA: Shore Hardness = 83D How flexible the part you print will be depends on wall thickness, wall layers and of-course infill percentage...
  23. I have some experience with Ninjatek Cheetah, but not in the way you used Ninjaflex (gasket)...
  24. Before you can use High Floating HDMI you need power... Just bought a wireless set 🤪 I use a Raspberry Pie 3B+ with octoprint to get my printer going...
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