Mari

... you have to tell Windows which Graphic-card to use for Cura... --> https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/103965-set-preferred-gpu-apps-windows-10-a.html In the past it was easier, you could right-click the icon and change graphic-card... that option seems to be gone since a few updates of Windows!

Printing PLA with ABS-settings --> PRINT FAIL - print temp way to high... Printing ABS with PLA-settings --> PRINT FAIL - print temp way to low, material will probably not melt Therefore we want to know WHAT material are you trying to print? Settings are very important... many of them can make your prints fail... If the material your are printing is PLA, try this file... it is a calibration cube... @GregValiant are you sure PrusaSlicer is Austrian? I thought Prusa is from Czech Republic but I could be wrong about the software. For your information, I'm from the Netherlands 🤪 CHEPCalibrationCube.gcode

... doesn't matter what material you print, when settings are wrong, printbed not cleaned, the material will not stick to the printbed and the print will fail... Still no answer about what the manufacturer advises for printing temperature... not all ABS is the same, you need to find the "sweetspot" for your specific role of material! Default temperature for PLA is 200C, mine prints best on 210C, I mentioned that as an example... ABS tends to warp, therefore it is suggested to use brim or raft... but still, when bed is not level, squish incorrect and not printing on the right temperature... prints will fail! I hope you don't mix Fahrenheit and Celsius... 245F in only 118C 😉

There is always the risk of buying old or wrongly stored material...

... if printing for a long time on higher temps, the standard bowden tube will fail... Switch to Capricorn. What does the manufacturer advise for printing temperature? I print PLA on 210 degrees, bed temperature 50 degrees (Lokbuild), for the Creality Magnetic flexible bed I set the bed temperature to 60 degrees. PLA should stick to that, if not clean the printbed with isopropynol alcohol 70% and check the first layer is squish is correct!

Yup, I also recommend Octoprint... together with Raspberry Pi the best investment of 2020 😉

Are there any bad PLA Brands?

Is the bed correct leveled? What temperature are you printing? What speed are you printing? Checked belt-tension? Calibrated Extruder? ABS is a litte more difficult to print with then PLA!

... that's why I use Octoprint... start printing while sitting on the couch designing new stuff to print...

File is OK, no problems with slicing... What OS are you using?

This is an export-file with only the model... Use the "Save Project" option... Could slice it without any problem!

File is empty...

No problems with these files with Cura 4.7.1... I go with @Framar: OS updates/drivers I would slice/print the files in this orientation... but in this orientation... ... but first you have to find out why Cura doesn't want to slice your file. Please share the Cura Project-File (3MF) so we have your printer and cura settings...

... don't understand what you mean, maybe you can put arrows on the image to point out what to look for! If you don't mind you could share the Cura Project-file with us, so we can see what your settings are!

Congratz... have a virtual drink on that! 🍷🍸🍹🍺🥤🧃🧉

No problems here 😉 but this answer will be of no help either! With the info provided we are unable to offer any help... Could be something wrong with your install... so un-install Cura, remove the Cura folder, restart your computer and re-install Cura... hopefully after that it works again!

Changing 1.75 to 2.85 in Cura while still using 1.75 filament is a stupid idea! One thing for sure, prints will fail, and you have a chance of damaging your printer What brand of bowdentube are you using, I know Capricorn has 1.90 and 2.00mm inner diameter bowdentube, in both cases 1.8mm should be no problem...

...it's hard to tell what the exact problem is by watching at the photographs... please attach the project-file so we can see you printer and cura settings... Did you manage to get a good print with one of the other profiles?

During printing the bowden tube is moving in a circular motion back and forth... the coupling can hold the bowden tube when you lift it, but when you make circular motion with it, the coupling will slip. Some couplings are better than others. Did you use a coupling clip?

Please do, after print is done... I will be patient 😉

... within Octoprint I have send the M115 command... it seems I have Marlin 1.0 installed! I have the latest FW-version downloaded from Creality website, but I need some sort of cable to perform the update with the included software... Some time ago I asked Creality what kind of cable that should be (probably the kind they included in their BLTouch package... but I'm not planning to buy/install BLTouch)... Ofcourse: NO ANSWER... (they probably don't speak English at all 😉 )

I have noticed that "external reset" when Octoprint connects to my printer, screen goes blank, white screen appears with Creality's Dragon-logo, after that I get the info-screen... nothing more, nothing less...

... not installing drivers for graphic-card and then wondering things don't work? Microsoft is installing "default" drivers... just coincidence that things worked after installing other software...

My Ender 3 Pro has no "About Printer" option available...

... so the driver of the Quadro 2000M graphic card is your problem... Installed the latest version?