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64Pacific

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  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 3 (Ext)

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  1. A photo of the stringing issues. I did check the spiralizing option, it was turned off. The profile that printed this model is the stock 0.10mm version, the material is PLA.
  2. Sorry, right, pictures. I will dig up some examples and post them here... Thank you for the tip, I will check spiralizing...
  3. Hello: I am having a lot of trouble with stringing between points on my models in Cura 5.2 - previously there was minimal if any stringing. The part that I am printing is most easily described as a 20 point crown, about 1" in diameter and about 1/8" high with an inner circular core printed on the second extruder. The stringing around the outer crown points essentially ties the points of the crown together. On another model which is a thin wall structure rising about 1" about the build plate I see stringing on the top couple of layers where I have four small tabs spaced roughly 1 1/2" inches apart. Any suggestions to limit the stringing?
  4. @MariMakes Thank you for the tips, i will give that a try and see if I can get a print similar to that from 4.13. This model is part of a larger assembly of prints which when assembled will build a model of a power transmission tower.
  5. I will give it a go and see about modifying the G code as suggested - I've never looked into the code following slicing and am curious what it entails... In the past I have printed the same models without a brim and experience warping. The models in this case are 10 or so small highway dividers with limited build plate contact area. If one print is done at a time I don't see warping but with the time between individual models there is a bit of warping. Currently my post processing (a few minutes with a fine file) cleans up the model. Magigoo is a new one for me, I've never tried, nor heard of it. Currently my surface prep is re-positionable spray adhesive. I am off to google to check out the product you've suggested. One product that I tried to use were the Ultimaker adhesion sheets - I have worked on a lot of really old rusty equipment with bolts seemingly welded together and none of them put up a fight like getting a model off of my build plate with the adhesion sheets applied.
  6. I am struggling with the exact same issues and have yet to figure out a way to resolve it - it seems that whenever there is a start (which is what I believe the white squares represent) I get a blob of plastic and holes in my models. Like you I have noticed that older versions printed much nicer than than the current version (5.2). Lately I have been throwing more prints in the trash than anything. Currently attempting a firmware update with the hope that this resolves the issue...
  7. Hello: I am attempting to slice this model (attached) in Cura 5.2.1 for printing on an Ultimaker 3. In previous versions of Cura I was able to get successful prints without a brim, in the current version of Cura I can only get a successful print using a brim. Aside from the brim issue a few other things that I am struggling with: Stringing between the small gap in the model. The remedy this I have tried to lowered the filament temperature, retraction distance and decreasing the retraction minimum travel, all without success, the stringing continues to obscure the gap. Small blobs of plastic at the start and end points of the new layers (on other prints these blobs yield a jagged edge); Not too sure how to remedy this adjusting the print temperature and trying retract at layer change didn't help. As a starting point for the PLA print I am using the out of the box Normal - 0.15mm profile. As I have been struggling with this my thinking was that older profiles were brought into the newer version of Cura and updated so everything was removed from my machine and I started with a fresh install of the current version of the slicer. 0000079.stl
  8. Hello: I've got a model rigged up and ready to print, the model will print on the Ultimaker 3 after being sliced with Cura 5.2.1. The model will print with Extruder 1 (PLA) and the brim will print with Extruder 2 (Breakaway). In order to maintain the details on the first layer of the print I was hoping to get the printer to lay down the first layer of the model and then place the brim using extruder 2. Currently after slicing during the preview of the printing process it can be seen that the brim is printed first followed by the model itself, this printing order (I believe) is causing me to loose some of the fine details (a radius) on the first few parts of the model. Is it possible to reverse the order of the printing so that the brim is printed after the first layer of the model has been placed onto the build plate? Thanks!
  9. Cool that seems to have done the trick for me, thanks! I am curious if the behaviour noted above in my original post is expected or if it is a small bug in the slicing?
  10. Hello: I have noticed a small issue which is creating a weakness in my thin parts where the two materials join (I am printing two colours of PLA). If I slice the model in any version of Cura (I have tried 4.7 through 4.10) I have noticed a bit of variance in the initial layer for both extruders depending upon the adhesion type selected, notice the gap between the B and the stick, the only change made between screen captures here is the adhesion type. My goal is to have the two models connect as in the second image with the adhesion type set to Brim but I do not want a brim on the print as removing it destroys the print. Any ideas? Thanks!
  11. Ran a print in my Ultimaker 3 and came back about four hours in to find that the model popped off the build plate which then plugged up the area where the nozzles protrude through the fan housing. Eventually the build up of material popped the fan housing down, forced the glass off of the build plate and left me with the mess in the attached photos. The printer happily printed away shoving the glass around the build plate extruding more and more material. At the moment both nozzles are firmly cemented into the printer and I knocked off one of the fan power ports for the main board. Are parts available and should I keep warming the filament glob trying to get it off or just toss the whole head in the photos in the bin and buy new? I have no idea what other damage was done inside the printer itself.
  12. Thank you, I will have to watch for that now that I know what it does - not that my profiles are overly customized, rather I am trying to limit failure points (currently all of my prints are failing after the first two)...
  13. Good day: I have developed a couple of custom profiles and saved them while saving my model. As time goes on I have tweaked the profiles and have also exported them to a file on my desktop. I sometimes run into issues with my prints and it usually is a result of some setting going wrong which I have previously fixed. My question, if I have a profile set in Cura, say this profile is called "Printing A", the project file (.3mf) references the same profile. I choose "Update Existing" on opening the file does this update only those settings in the application (loaded in memory) leaving my profile as it was previously or does it update the profile on disk? Essentially if I have a profile setup just how I like it and I open an older file referencing the same profile is that profile now tainted with the settings in the outdated file? What is the best practice here if I want to use an older files models and layouts with an updated profile which was fine tuned when printing other files? If my thinking is right maybe a third option is needed when opening a file: "Create new", "Update existing (and profile on disk)", and lastly "use settings from saved profile"
  14. Thank you you for the tip, I will give it a go and will be heading off to watch your video right after this is sent. I think that I should grab some IPA and give the glass a good wipe and polish with a clean paper towel. I did do a bed levelling last night and that did help with the under extrusion issue. After levelling the first layer of my print looked great, the second layer is when everything peeled off of the plate and remained on the nozzle.
  15. I have been chasing my tail lately in regards to build plate adhesion. Recently I cleaned the stock glass build plate with Windex as it was covered in finger prints following moving the printer across town. And this is where I believe everything when horribly wrong and continues to do so. I am attempting to print thin parts in PLA with a customized default profile and absolutely nothing sticks to the build plate, I can sometimes get a portion of the first layer down (although it is suffering from under extrusion). If I let the print run through I end up with a glob of melted plastic stuck to the underside of the nozzle and a clean built plate. Previously, before I cleaned the glass plate, the print profile was working just fine (even after the move) with the odd part not adhering which is just how it goes. I have tried to wash the build plate in dish detergent, scrub it with clean paper towel and lastly this morning tried using a magic eraser on the build plate to scrub anything off. Any suggestions for cleaning the build plate and making my prints stick again (I have tried the UHU stick supplied but this quickly dried onto the build plate and wasn't tacky at all). I have used spray adhesive in the distant past and this has worked well but leaves fine parts a little messy so I am hoping to avoid this.
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