BiMNrd

We appreciate that, since Wifi connectivity was a big determining factor in our purchase here at the our shop.

I had to reset all printer settings to get this working. but it work now. What Ultimaker needs to fix is their spotty wifi connection.

My printer gets stuck updating - showing 2 mins remaining but 45 mins have gone by.. This is not normal is it?

I read about that before. It may be something worth trying.

I will post later on. I do have a several trials. learned a ton the past two days.

I tried to see if I could change retraction settings PER PART and apparently that is a global parameter that cant be changed. I am going run another test a report

no, and no. Another ABS printer I have produce great results, a colleagues produces greats result. This is not an ABS issue its a slicer issue. An no, I dont have time to sand plus sanding usually damages the part. I am looking for a technical solution, its a $5K printer!

I tired ironing, doesnt work as well for ABS. looks like a melted piece of plasic fyi.

Hello guys, I am printing with a 0.8 AA core and I find that the top layers are not coming out as nicely. There is quite a bit of "lifted" plastic or markings of the start and end points. the smaller the part, the more this can be seen. I am wondering if there a setting in CURA and will allow me to mitigate this. Could it be a mixture of retraction (add more - currently at 5mm) and top/bottom layer speed? example below part size is 1" x 1.75"

I decided to print ABS (UM brand) with my S5+Air Manager for the first time and a 0.8mm AA core - Long story short, I was unable to get the parts to come off. I woke up to a cooled off print surface. When the prints finally came off, despite being careful, they took large layers of glass with them. I have been using Magigoo PA for everything and I used it with the ABS thinking that I would need all the help I can get. I think that doing that in combination with the printing temps (more on that ) contributed to the issue. The temperatures are based on the NFC profile and the air manager was set to keep the print volume at 35C. These print had the first layer spread out creating an elephants foot effect. needless to say, I tried to make other smaller prints with PVA this time and still had the elephants foot. However they were easier to remove. I have been tweaking settings and have been able to get rid of the elephants foot just by decreasing the build plate temp to 70C. I train of thought is that if I have an enclosure, the trapped hot air (temp being contained) will help prevent warping and hence I do not need such hot build plate. I will post another screenshot of the tweaked settings for your guys info on what seems to be working at the moment.

guys isnt that over extrusion, or maybe - even the printer just shaking the table it sits on? @AAGC you should post a 3mf file with the settings you used to that maybe some can replicate or look more in depth.

oh wow, europe... =(

I agree w the plate in the freezer, takes too long. I was able to make tweaks to the UM ABS profile and air manager to: Make easier to remove Get rid of the elephant's foot i was seeing (more of that) Thanks, please post a link to the plate ypu are getting.

Tell me us more about this plugin @Smithy. This thread came at a good time. I usually let my prints cool off and they pop off even when I use magigoo. However I completely damaged one of my glass plates last night printing ABS. Does not matter the size of the part the glass was chipped and missing large chunks. I did let the part and glass cool down overnight. Apparently that is a no no with ABS. But honestly at times I am not around when the printer is doing its work and sometimes it finishes early in the morning while I am still sleeping. With all this said I was to also experiment with a flex plate or some sort. too bad they (ultimaker) decided to not make the alum, plate. Maybe I can make one and just mill it flat. has anyone tired garolite?

The air manager can get loud, but for most of the time, it does attenuate the printers normal sound. Made it quieter.

Im not sure if its "PA" or not, but yes I cleaned the glass. The part printed was the size of two credit cards amd approx. 25mm tall.

Yes, keep things warm and turns off the hood fan. I was expecting that it would allow the chamber for get warmer.. (maybe just disconnect the cable) I am using magigoo* and cant get nylonx to stick with a skirt. Maybe nylonx just need a brim. Which btw, with a bring it printer w no warping and the chamber set to 50c.

It is more of an extraction hood, than a temp control device. Nylon stil warps. lets try ABS soon.

I finally received mine last week. Its working okay.

It shipped this week as much nagging on my part. They told me UM was holding up air manager order. Lets see. Honestly the relleser model is outdated. You guys need to sell direct.

There is a setting in cura to automatically drop models to print bed. Its a check box in the options. If you disable it you can have your model float.

Bronzefil @.15mm , PVA support. S5.

That is crazy, tell us more. What filament, layer height, what type of support?

HAHAHA, I understood what you meant the first time. but that is funny now that you mention it.

so you would think.. lol. thanks for the help.