Oliveros
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Posts posted by Oliveros
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Hey Johnny,
Warping is a pain, that much I think we all know, I try to just steer clear of filaments that warp excessively.
As I mentioned above, I think Ninjatek's Armadillo would perform well. The thicker you make it, the more force it'll take to bend it or for it to flex.
Armadillo doesen't really warp, not in my experience at least.
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I print Ninjalfex with no issues on my Ender 6 which has a bowden style extruder.
30MM/S and 230-240*C with a bed temp of 35-45*C
Can't imagine the Ultimater can't do what the Ender can, I've seen the Ultimaker in action and it's impressive.
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Cool, thank you for posting that.
Cheetah sounds like it might just be the thing, Armadillo seems not flexible enough for a lot of things, Ninjaflex way too flexy for most things, so perhaps Cheetah is the happy medium.
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Okay, what's your experience with it?
Is it as flexible as Ninjaflex or as hard as Armadillo?
Just trying to get a feel for it.
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Hello everyone,
I recently got my hands on an Ender 6 and I'm finally able to use Ninjateks "Ninjaflex" filament which is a super flexy TPU and is used for gaskets and other things.
I made a gasket with it yesterday because I was in a pinch doing a motor rebuild on a sunday, customer needed it on Monday in the morning so I just designed a gasket and printed it with Ninjaflex, it was a for a motor driving some gears and in the gear case there is oil.
Turned out really well, only thing I didn't like was the gasket "squishing" out the sides when I tightened the motor flange, I assume that's because it's just that soft and flexy.
I then called Ninjatek and they recommended Cheetah as it's slightly harder but not as hard as their "Armadillo" which I've also used for a lot of parts.
Does anyone here have experience with Cheetah?
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I've tried some carbon fiber PC before, it's hard as a rock, I tried breaking the infill with a pair of pliers and I could not get it to budge.
Hit it with a hammer and it didn't even phase it, finally dented it when I really hit it but I was very impressed.
I've made a variety of fan wheels over the last year or so, I have a hard time making the fins as strong as I would like, they tend to be weak right at the joint despite what kind of seam I do, if you are doing an impeller with a short stickout from the hub, I could see it working but your effeciency would be low.
I'm sure it could be possible, but I would be going for something with a little bit of flex in it, like Ninjatek Armadillo, I just made a fan wheel with it today, about 5 or 6 inches in dia on my Ender 6 and it came out great, enough flex to prevent it from snapping but not so flexible that it distorts.
But I've only tried very little PC with carbon fiber, but that was my experience.
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You could also print it with a resin printer, those make completely sealed parts from what i've tried, making some smaller fittings for small pumps, they seem to hold up okay, at least they don't leak.
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Glad it worked out.
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Just heat it with a torch and take it off, if all you are trying to salvage is the nozzle, it'll work.
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Har du proevet at printe med Resin?
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Lol, for sure.
It just seems like it's really popular, I say that only having seen it here, but I'm just surprised so many people went through the trouble of signing up here JUST for that.
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I've had no problems with it curing except for when I mixed food color with starch and other things into water based resin, it started curing in the mixing cup.
But as for a room, I've had no problems at all and leave it in the vat with no problems.
Resin printing is really not that bad once you get the drill of it down, then it's a lot nicer than FDM as the result is more rewarding.
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GR5
What is these devices you speak of?
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Why on earth does these wheels seem so popular?
Is this some sort of popular toy?
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Just heat it up and sink it in, it works every time, make the hole slightly too small to fit the nut and sink it in.
For smaller brass inserts we use a soldering iron to heat it and just push down on it.
Anyways, good on you for trying, wood thread and these types of thread are normally good until you have to take it out once or twice, then they start to loose a lot of strength.
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Well.
I now know why you should filter the resin between almost every print.
If a piece of support or something gets missed in the resin and the build plate comes down, it cracks the screen.
Who would've thought.
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Wow, that's pretty cool!
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Interesting, I prefer the water washable, I've used some and it all works the same in terms of part finish from what I can tell, so I'll probably end up mainly using water washable when I can.
I was thinking of this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q2M17K/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3OI2CVBA9DB25
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Kom nu ind I kampen danskere. 5 aar siden nogen har svaret,
Hvad er det for noget.
Er I stadig I live?
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Thank you for that info.
Glad to hear I'm not the only one, we're doing the same thing pretty much it seems, works great.
I was looking at Ultrasonic cleaner yesterday, what kind do you have?
Some say alcohol will erupt into a supernova if put in a ultrasonic cleaner, some say it doesen't matter so I'll see what happens, I'm getting a Elegoo Mercury curing box and whatever Ultra S cleaner I decide on, I'm open for suggestions.
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Yeah, I would use the correct diameter for your printer, the feeder filament gear will probably have a tricky time grabbing the filament and feeding it properly.
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Why not just kill the bed heat entirely? What is the material?
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I was going to say, change your support density and distancing and that should do it.
Glad you got it sorted.
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If you plug your printer directly into Cura, you can give it manual codes I believe, I don't know G-code that well so I never tried but it shows it under the "monitor" tab.
Perhaps there's a way to do it like that.
But I doubt it since it's all coordinates, you'd have to figure out where it was and remove each line of code that tells it to there.
Yeah, I wouldn't mess with it, either scrap it all or let it finish, when it happens to me, I just let it roll unless it's catastrophic.
FDM using TPU 95A
in Materials & profiles
Posted
I print Ninjaflex, Cheetah and armadillo, Ninjaflex is the most flexible, like rubber, where Cheetah is slightly more ridgid.
I print them on an ender 6 which has a bowden style, not direct drive, the best way to reduce the stringing may not be retraction as you might jam the filament, it'll stretch inside the bowden tube rather than pull it back if it's flexible.
I find figuring out what settings reduce travel helps the most, which depends on the model, but if you use Cura you can see the moves, which is exactly where the stringing will be, but generally, I just trim it when it's done.
Hope that helps.