Oliveros

I've embedded parts before and through the troubles of figuring out sequences and timing and all that, I've found it to be much easier to just sink the nut into the plastic once it's done. Heat the nut with a torch or whatever you got (I do this as part of my job as an engineer, so I have tools and toys) and just sink it in. I've made remote flash units that were crap with the original plastic thread, redesigned the part so I could sink a nut into it and it works great, done it on many different parts and it's just easier than trying to do what you are. The only time I go through the trouble to do what you are doing, is if It's a magnet I'm trying to put inside.

On my Monoprice Ultimate 2, I had to modify my end drive with bowden tube inserts to make it so the filament can't wrap around the feeder gear. Drilled out some holes, trimmed some tube, notched the tube, slid it in, done deal. I can now print flexible filaments.

I wouldn't 3D print with FDM something that's going to be in contact with food for extended periods of time and multiple times, there's simply no way to properly seal the crevices, sure, you can coat it but that coating can flake off into the dough and then you have the same issue. I would recommend what's already been recommended, 3D print a mold and then pour silicone molds. I've done it, it works well, not for muffins but for parts.

Yeah, we're kind of going crazy testing just because we are curious, modeled a threaded X barb fitting yesterday to try out in a pump. Finish is superior though, no doubt about it, really loving it so far. Doing some cable management parts for a friend of mine as well as a camera mount. Definetley don't have to clean the vat every time though, as long as the print went well, there's no uncured resin or pieces floating about, so then it's pretty easy. I haven't done anything super detailed and small but I'm sure it's amazing.

Hey Geert, You are absolutely right, I think that's why they do it as well. We ended up just trying to keep printing and we've gone 5 or 6 prints without cleaning it out and there's been no issues at all. If it was a critical or very long print, I would do it just to be safe, but otherwise, it seems totally fine. We finally got it sorted and I have to say, resin printing is amazing, the finish is perfect. I'm happy with it, going to get some more engineering grade resins and try to make some parts and see what happens. Thank you for responding.

Hey Guys, Got my hands on a Crealty ld-002r and I'm trying to get it to print properly but there's really not a lot of information out there compared to FDM. If anyone here knows, I would appreciate the help and guidance. My first question is this, someone told me that have to remove the resin after every print, clean the vat and bed and then pour in fresh resin, even if it's the same resin. Is that the case? When leveling the bed, in the very limited instructions it comes with, it tells me to put the bed directly on top of the screen that flashes the UV, when looking online, it seems like people put a piece of paper between them before settling it in, then there's Z-offset and other things that I just have no clue about and the manual doesen't say anything about it. The first print I did came out horrible, one side of the bed came out okay, the other one was hanging off the support, that was due to me not having set the exposure time properly as I didn't go away from default settings but after this print, I checked the bottle and it said it needed more exposure time. The 2nd print went better but still not even close to success, the left side of the bed came out just fine, the right side was basically gone, it had done the supports but the object itself seemed to not have printed. I then followed what leveling instructions I had and it seemed to have that right side lifted slightly off the bed, so the bed was at an angle which would explain why it didn't work, so I corrected that and now I'm running another print. I like the idea of the resin, it's just so darn messy it seems, requiring funnels and cups and all kinds of stuff. Help!

I've had the same thing, the filament can still be bad, try snapping off 10' or so of the material off the spool and try to print it again. IF it worked before with the same mounting bracket, no reason it wouldn't know, but i've had off things happen with PLA.

Okay, well that's good to know. Where would I find something like that, I have a Monoprice Ultimate 2, Is there some place that sells all kinds of 3D printing gear or whatever it's called? I don't think I can calibrate steps, at least I don't know how to.

Hello everyone, I was having issues feeding Ninjatek Armadillo, it kept getting wrapped up in the feeder gear despite earlier rolls not doing so, after speaking with the filament manufacturer and the printer manufacturer, they kind of pointed at eachother, so I decided to just take the head off and look at the gear. It semeed like it was worn, even to the point of the gear teeth being slightly bent in, which I figured didn't help. I then spoke to Monoprice and they said they didn't have the part and probably wouldn't get it, and that I should find another one somewhere in the future when I need it. (They are sending me another replacement printer as mine is still under warranty) So considering it's now a dead giveaway that eventually I'll need to replace this gear, how would I go about finding one? I'm assuming the amount of teeth is extremely important as that would dictate feed rate, correct?

Right, I'm aware of that. The cap should have no effect on it's function, which is why it's odd. It was a one off, tried putting the same detector in and tried it with the same cap, nothing happened. Tried 3 other smoke detectors, nothing happened. People put blue tape, electrical tape, plastic bags, foil tape, etc. on these things and it doesn't set them off, but for some reason, this one time, it did for whatever reason.

I did, the light originates from within the detector, I tested it on other ones with no problems. If you turn the lights off in a room and close the doors and there's no windows, the smoke detector doesen't go off, so the idea of the new cap blocking all light crossed my mind but didn't make much sense in the end. Can't seem to get another one to go off, perhaps the detector itself was faulty.

Hello Everyone, Got a bit of an odd question based on an odd experience. I made some black smoke detector caps in an attempt to get some cheaper than $5 a piece, since We're looking to get a whole bunch of them and I can print them for $0.17 a piece in a printer. It's a photoelectric sensor with an eye inside and if that sensor's shot gets interrupted or dispersed, it triggers the device and puts it into alarm. So I made some and went to try one and it set the device off as if there was smoke all over it, I made it out of Bumat PLA, there was no logical reason for it to have happened but now I'm wondering why it happened. Any of you guys have any experience on this? Original cap looks like the attached picture.

Good point, I know this machine has some sort of UV screen on it, so I figure it should be able to cure the product itself, seems dumb if it can't. Good idea, I'll have to collect some information on these points, it's not as widely spread info as I thought it would be, seems to still be new.

Thank you for that information, What we're looking at is the one in the link, just something to make parts similar in size to the Monoprice Ultimate 2 printer which is what we started with, the main issue we run into is the surface finish. I would like to know more about the post treatment though, I was under the illusion the print would be completed fully in the printer, but perhaps that's not the case.

Hello Everyone, After now having a FDM 3D printer for almost a year, we now have reached what we feel is kind of the limit in terms of performance, we're still figuring things out but I feel we've got it in the bag pretty much and it's time to expand the operation a bit. We were looking at getting a resin printer or SLA as they are called but there's not a whole lot of information in regards to how the final parts are. https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=30994&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIudHVopP86AIVVMDICh1T5QHrEAYYASABEgKYk_D_BwE Anyone have experience with resin printers and the final parts? Are they as good as FDM in terms of strength and versatility or what's the major differences?

You shouldn't have to input any G-code, you just load your model into cura and set your settings and export it as a G-code file for the printer.

Well, who would've thought, Monoprice is replacing the filaments free of charge. I love companies that stand behind their stuff.

Interesting, Okay cool, so I'll email Monoprice and ask them about it. Just wanted to make sure it wasn't me storing it or doing something wrong with it.

Make sure you are not over extruding, that's kind of what it looks like.

So you're all sorted out then?

Hey everyone, I had a bit of an issue yesterday when trying to print with PLA filaments that aren't necessarily too old, only a month or so, They are Monoprice filaments, wood and black PLA and both would snap randomly when trying to feed it into the printer, but when bent in certain places it wouldn't snap. So when I printed with it, the wood filament snapped 3 or 4 times and I had to redo the prints (i've disabled the filament runout sensor). The PLA isn't stored anywhere special, in an air conditioned room, under the printer, no dessicant packs in the box and it's just sitting in the box. I've stored PLA like that for several months with no issues, but now it seems to be a problem? My Nylon 6, Nylon 12, ABS, PETG and Armadillo are all printing fine, was it a bad batch of PLA or what?

Try to unhide some settings, like under speed, you have 2 settings visible in 3.6 and 1 on the other one. Just unhide all the settings and find what's consuming all the time, I believe there's a way to see the breakdown of what is consuming time.

The only difference I saw was the support overhang angle being higher in the 3.6, depending on the part, that could make a significant difference.

I don't know, I don't use an Ultimaker printer, but if you can select different mateials as an option mid flight, I could imagine it would.

In theory it shouldn't matter, you would just have to change the temps and whatever else but it's a common way to get dual color prints without dual extrusion, you pause the print, change the filament and resume.