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neute

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  1. It looks as if the two nozzles aren't perfectly aligned in the z direction. If the second nozzle is lower than the first, it will push the support material into the top layer of the part, so it's difficult to be removed, while the distance between the top of the support structure and the underside of the part is too big. make sure the nozzles are clean and the buildplate is clean where the nozzles touch the bed before starting the print (so the autobedleveling can reach a clean result)
  2. Hi all, thanks for the fruitful discussion. I've tested my print bed after your comments. When I tried to reach 28,5 mm, the screws bottomed out. I turned the backwards screw all the way in and then half a turn out to have a little play, and did the leveling. I had to adjust the both screws in the front so that the distance between print surface and bottom of the print bed is now about 29,5 mm. There hasn't been a significant change in the first layer of the part I printed before and after this procedure, but I'm willing to accept that the print bed is "optimal" for the active lev
  3. Hi Sander, what distance should I set between the cast aluminium bed and the plate on the S5? Or how can I measure 14 mm here? I can't insert a tool or calipers since there is an edge all around. See photo. Then I've had tremendous luck using the z-Offset plugin, even with "difficult" materials that used to lift off the build plate (here the proper adhesion medium did the trick, while squishing the material onto the plate did not). What setting do I need to change to battle the overextrusion of the initial layer, which leads
  4. Thanks for your input. I've never seen this tool to set the gap before, shouldn't it be included with new machines if this distance is that important? As I've mentioned, I've never been able to get a successful first layer without tweaking the G-Code via the Z-offset plugin. That's my whole point - to me, a successful first layer means that it looks good and doesn't have elephant's foot and over extrusion. Adhesion shouldn't be achieved by forcefully squishing the filament to the print bed, but by using suitable measures such as brim, raft, adhesion medium and bed temperature
  5. Hi, if I may board this thread shamelessly - if I understand the autoleveling behavior correctly, it is flawed because of some assumptions that result in an inconsistent result, that is also consistently too close (this can be measured by aborting a print after the first layer or measuring the brim of the part and comparing it to "initial layer height"). Please correct me if I'm wrong here! (and please tell my why!) My understanding of the autoleveling is mostly like @Smithy describes; the bed creeps up to the nozzle, and as soon as the nozzle hits the bed,
  6. How do adhesives like Magigoo work on a steel sheet instead of a glass plate? Or, to put it the other way round, how do you account for the fact that the Ultimaker sinks the heated up nozzle into the surface of the printbed when active levelling? I've come to the conclusion that polymer surfaces like standard Buildtak are not compatible to the S3 and the S5 because of this. The nozzle sinks into the surface - on the right side of the print bed, not on the left, because it has cooled off by then - which can only lead to a skewed and untrue leveling result IMO. No such problem with glu
  7. I second this - I have a dedicated wifi router for my 3D printers, that is located very close to the printers and the computer, and the printers (S3 and S5) weren't able to hold a connection to Cura for more than a few minutes at best. Reverting to ethernet fixed this (mostly). For contrast, my Duet powered machine that is connected to the same router can be contacted anytime, from anywhere, no problems.
  8. Hi, in case you are still struggling with this: For this igus material (I150-PF) the problem is indeed moisture uptake, along with maybe a little bit too high temperature. When filament with some moisture content gets "boiled" in the nozzle, it degrades, changing its color and becoming less viscous - sometimes even dripping out the nozzle. This effect also leads to the material expanding when extruding, which looks like overextrusion. The result is the buildup of material around the nozzle, which gets deposited on the part when the nozzle hits the spot where material was
  9. there are smartphone apps that can measure sound frequency, which should make it possible to measure the print head's shaking frequency due to the sound it makes. I for example use such an app to tension my printer's belts to a certain value.
  10. FWIW, I've been using most of the recent Cura versions both at home and at work, since at least 3.5. I've encountered the same issue that Cura gets really, really slow (read: not usable), which gets better for a short period when restarting the program. Interestingly, this (so far) only happens on my work computer (notebook with i5-6300U), not on my home computer (previously i5-4560K, now Ryzen 5 3600 - this one shows the best performance). It seems to have become better with 4.4.1 however. We'll see how this develops.
  11. Hi, can you elaborate on that? I've used 3rd party hoods on our older UM3 and UM2s before, and am at this moment using the Air Manager as a "pretty hood" without it being connected... It helps to elevate the build chamber temperature and thus yields stronger prints. What can go wrong? thanks, Niklas
  12. Hi Smithy, thanks for the quick answer. On our machine, the nozzle is pushed against the bed strongly, to the point that it bends the rods of the xy-gantry notably when the print head is in the middle of the bed while leveling. Knowing no better, I assume that this is intended, and the first layer comes out okay (albeit sometimes a lot thinner than I would wish). With a standard brass or steel nozzle, I see no problem, as the metal is softer than the glass and thus nothing should break. With the ruby nozzle, a very hard tip touches a very hard surface, and I get afr
  13. chiming in on this topic - I'm currently setting up to print with the 3D Solex hardcore + Everlast ruby nozzle on the UMS5. Our reseller told me that with the CC red core, the active leveling is automatically disabled (by the firmware I suppose). Is this true? ...I'd rather have my printer be "a little less reliable" and being able to disable auto-leveling every time risking that a first layer might not be perfectly consistent, than risking the nozzle and/or build plate being cracked during leveling - this might be a risk with the ruby/sapphire insert in the nozzle, or so I'm
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