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  1. How do adhesives like Magigoo work on a steel sheet instead of a glass plate? Or, to put it the other way round, how do you account for the fact that the Ultimaker sinks the heated up nozzle into the surface of the printbed when active levelling? I've come to the conclusion that polymer surfaces like standard Buildtak are not compatible to the S3 and the S5 because of this. The nozzle sinks into the surface - on the right side of the print bed, not on the left, because it has cooled off by then - which can only lead to a skewed and untrue leveling result IMO. No such problem with glue or magigoo of course. any thoughts? PS on an UM3 Buildtak works because the active bed leveling can be deactivated :P
  2. I second this - I have a dedicated wifi router for my 3D printers, that is located very close to the printers and the computer, and the printers (S3 and S5) weren't able to hold a connection to Cura for more than a few minutes at best. Reverting to ethernet fixed this (mostly). For contrast, my Duet powered machine that is connected to the same router can be contacted anytime, from anywhere, no problems.
  3. Hi, in case you are still struggling with this: For this igus material (I150-PF) the problem is indeed moisture uptake, along with maybe a little bit too high temperature. When filament with some moisture content gets "boiled" in the nozzle, it degrades, changing its color and becoming less viscous - sometimes even dripping out the nozzle. This effect also leads to the material expanding when extruding, which looks like overextrusion. The result is the buildup of material around the nozzle, which gets deposited on the part when the nozzle hits the spot where material was stuck before. Try drying your spool at 65 °C for around 4-6 hours, then print using around 98% flow and start at 235 °C - if layer adhesion becomes an issue, go up 5 or 10 °C. This also explains why it was working fine one year ago! While not as much of an issue with I180-PF, this material also benefits from drying. HTH, Niklas
  4. there are smartphone apps that can measure sound frequency, which should make it possible to measure the print head's shaking frequency due to the sound it makes. I for example use such an app to tension my printer's belts to a certain value.
  5. FWIW, I've been using most of the recent Cura versions both at home and at work, since at least 3.5. I've encountered the same issue that Cura gets really, really slow (read: not usable), which gets better for a short period when restarting the program. Interestingly, this (so far) only happens on my work computer (notebook with i5-6300U), not on my home computer (previously i5-4560K, now Ryzen 5 3600 - this one shows the best performance). It seems to have become better with 4.4.1 however. We'll see how this develops.
  6. Hi, can you elaborate on that? I've used 3rd party hoods on our older UM3 and UM2s before, and am at this moment using the Air Manager as a "pretty hood" without it being connected... It helps to elevate the build chamber temperature and thus yields stronger prints. What can go wrong? thanks, Niklas
  7. Hi Smithy, thanks for the quick answer. On our machine, the nozzle is pushed against the bed strongly, to the point that it bends the rods of the xy-gantry notably when the print head is in the middle of the bed while leveling. Knowing no better, I assume that this is intended, and the first layer comes out okay (albeit sometimes a lot thinner than I would wish). With a standard brass or steel nozzle, I see no problem, as the metal is softer than the glass and thus nothing should break. With the ruby nozzle, a very hard tip touches a very hard surface, and I get afraid that the less hard of the two might crack (this was, again, the statement from our reseller). But I take it that I shouldn't need to worry about this? Best regards, Niklas
  8. chiming in on this topic - I'm currently setting up to print with the 3D Solex hardcore + Everlast ruby nozzle on the UMS5. Our reseller told me that with the CC red core, the active leveling is automatically disabled (by the firmware I suppose). Is this true? ...I'd rather have my printer be "a little less reliable" and being able to disable auto-leveling every time risking that a first layer might not be perfectly consistent, than risking the nozzle and/or build plate being cracked during leveling - this might be a risk with the ruby/sapphire insert in the nozzle, or so I'm told. I realize that I'm not doing it the way Ultimaker is "envisioning" it, e.g. using the CC core, but the issue is bigger to me than just using the 3DSolex core. best, Niklas
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